I got a code P0191 for the fuel rail pressure and a code P0237 for turbocharger boost.

ANSWER : Hi there. When the battery was arched, the power surge had went through the vehicle and caused some circuits to fail. If right after the power surge happened and now you have a code for the fuel pressure and the turbo, I recommend replacing the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail and the barometric sensor on the intake. This should take care of the idle issue and the cut outs along with any problems with performance issues. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling after arching the battery, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.

ANSWER : Hi there – I suspect you have weak power getting to the fuel pump. I would first check the voltage coming out of the fuel pump relay. If the contacts in the relay are burned, you will not get reliable current flow to the pump. Check the fuel pump ground as well (voltage drop across the ground, not just continuity). I recommend a fuel system inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hello,
You may want to try checking the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your ECU actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. If the wires all have power running through them, then it is likely you have a faulty relay. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your wiring as this can be very difficult and time consuming without the proper wiring diagram.

ANSWER : If the pressure drop exists "through" the fuel filter, then the fuel filter should be replaced. If the pressure at the exit side of the fuel filter is normal and yet the pressure on the fuel rail is essentially zero, it’s possible the fuel pressure regulator has failed wide open, essentially preventing sufficient pressure from building. You just want to be sure that in diagnosing pressure on the fuel rail the schrader valve connection, if equipped and if you are testing through that valve, is actually opening properly to get an accurate fuel pressure reading. If you want the issue diagnosed, and the regulator replaced, if required, the service to request from YourMechanic is fuel pressure regulator diagnostic/replacement.

ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : It sounds like this fault may have more going on than just the fuel delivery issue. The vehicles ECU will command the fuel pump to turn on normally when a vehicle is started. If the car only primes for the second when the key is turned, then for some reason the ECU may be pulling the fuel.

This can happen due to a failure with various sensors or ignition component, such as the oil sender, ignition switch, ECT sensor, or various other failed sensors. If the car has codes stored in the ECU it may lead to more information as to what is going on. A qualified technician will be able to diagnose this fault no start fault and perform any repairs required.

ANSWER : Hi there. Check the fuel filter in the fuel line and see if its plugged. Then check the fuel pressure regulator at it controls the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. If the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are good and working, then there could be a blockage in the fuel line somewhere that is preventing the fuel from getting to the fuel rail. Remove the fuel line to the fuel filter and to the fuel rail. Get an air hose and apply some air to the line and see if the fuel comes out of the end. If there is no fuel coming out of the end or no air coming out of the end, then there is a blockage in the line and the line may need replace if the blockage will not come out with compressed air. If you need further assistance with your fuel system not getting fuel to the fuel rail, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.