I got a 1976 Chevy truck 350,it’s runs good when gets hot it the shuts off, when it cools it runs again, what could the problem be?
I got a 1976 Chevy truck 350,it's runs good when gets hot it the shuts off, when it cools it runs again, what could the problem be
My car has a manual transmission.
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It sounds like what you are describing is a classic sign of a failing ignition coil that may be getting too hot to operate properly and is going through a heat cycling phase. Ignition coils are made of a varnish like material that will crack and become brittle over time, causing the internal wiring of the coil wire to become exposed. When the heat under the hood rises during engine operation, this causes the exposure of the wiring to become more pronounced which results in the coil shorting and becoming inoperable. When the heat under the hood cools down and the ignition coil cools off, they begin to work again. This type of heat cycling will usually continue until the coil ultimately fails completely. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your ignition system and test your ignition coils to determine what my be causing this.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The main cause of engine stall at high temperature is rapid fuel boiling by increasing fuel temperature. This causes a lot of vapor. Such vapor flows into the fuel pump which leading to decrease the pump load and the current consumption of the fuel pump continuously. This ultimately results in engine stall.
If your GM truck occasionally loses the ability to accelerate and warns you of reduced engine power, that could be caused by a faulty throttle body. While not common, this issue can interfere with your engine function and cause your vehicle to lose power anywhere from once in a while to several times in a day.
The source of a “cranks, but no start” problem on your Chevy 350 distributor install is most likely incorrect distributor alignment with the harmonic balancer or a mismatched balancer and timing tab.
The main reasons why your Chevy truck might be losing power when accelerating are low engine compression, clogged fuel or air filter, faulty fuel pump, and so on.
If the coolant leaks out too much, the computer will see this from the coolant temperature and coolant level sensors and shut off the engine to prevent any damage to the engine.
One more thing to be aware of: overheating in stop-and-go traffic can be a sign that the engine`s head gasket is beginning to fail. A failed head gasket can allow the engine to burn coolant, keeping the cooling system from working as intended.
The first thing you can do is check the level of the power steering fluid, and make sure the extra stress isn`t caused by a lack of fluid. If the fluid is full, you can test the pressure of the power steering fluid. If it tests low during a turn, then you need to replace the pump.
You will feel a loss in power while accelerating and at times intermittent jerks. To solve this issue find the fuel filter located in the engine bay or near the fuel tank in your car`s trunk. If the fuel filter is clogged replace it if you have the skills to do so or get it changed at your local mechanic shop.
The timing can vary between 2 and 12 degrees BTDC, the recommended spark plugs are different and even the plug gaps vary. In most cases starting out with 12 degrees of initial advance is about right.
Most models of Chevrolet, from the Silverado to the Camaro, have reports of brake and electrical issues. These sometimes serious issues include locked-up brakes while driving and failure of the electrical brake assist system. You may know the locked-up steering issue with the Silverado and Colorado Chevrolet models.
The most likely issue is that a component is clogged. A clogged fuel filter is the most common reason, although a loss of power in your car could also indicate problems with the fuel pump or fuel line. Impurities or debris may be blocking the system, which causes the loss of power in a car.
A loss of power is most apparent when you`re accelerating, and can be due to a number of reasons including air flow into the engine, fuel flow and even faults with the exhaust system.
If you notice that your engine overheats, the coolant temperature sensor could be the problem. At times, the coolant temperature switch may fail such that it starts transmitting hot signals permanently. This causes the computer to erroneously counterbalance the signal, thereby causing the engine to misfire or overheat.
If your car begins to overheat when idling, but the temperature gauge moves back down once you get going, it`s most likely due to a broken radiator fan. When the coolant goes to the radiator, it`s spread over a large surface area to cool it down. Airflow further cools it before it returns to the engine.
Vapor lock can occur even with fresh, warm weather formulated gasoline when your engine is heat soaked. If this happens, try opening the hood of your car for faster cooling of the heat-soaked under hood area. Another possible cause of hard starting conditions in hot weather is an overburdened battery.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I got a 1976 Chevy truck 350,it’s runs good when gets hot it the shuts off, when it cools it runs again, what could the problem be?
ANSWER : It sounds like what you are describing is a classic sign of a failing ignition coil that may be getting too hot to operate properly and is going through a heat cycling phase. Ignition coils are made of a varnish like material that will crack and become brittle over time, causing the internal wiring of the coil wire to become exposed. When the heat under the hood rises during engine operation, this causes the exposure of the wiring to become more pronounced which results in the coil shorting and becoming inoperable. When the heat under the hood cools down and the ignition coil cools off, they begin to work again. This type of heat cycling will usually continue until the coil ultimately fails completely. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your ignition system and test your ignition coils to determine what my be causing this.
My car is running hot, what could be the problem?
ANSWER : There could be an issue with the cylinder head gaskets. Antifreeze can break down and become acidic if not replaced as normal maintenance. The head gasket material erodes and can cause engine compression to build up in the coolant system. This will prevent the flow of coolant which can create an overheating condition.
There is a test that can be done to check whether there is carbon monoxide in the coolant system; it involves special equipment.
I recommend having your overheating condition inspected, and perhaps have a block test performed.
Engine gets hot and shuts down but has spark – 1989 Mercedes-Benz 300CE
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. The fuel pumps in the fuel tank may have been damaged from debris in the fuel tank damaging the motors. Remove the fuel tank pumps and look inside the tanks to see if there is debris at the bottom of the tank. The pumps will suck in the debris and damage the pumps. If you need help having this checked, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your location to test the vehicle and diagnose the stalling issue.
Odometer has lines, won’t start unless I put fuel in the intake. The fuel pump keeps running and doesn’t shut off? Seems like the truck wants to start.
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, you’ve replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump never shuts off and puts fuel in the throttle body, it runs until the fuel is gone, and the odometer has lines instead of mileage. This would appear to be a fuel control problem and communication failure.
Some possibilities are that the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) has shorted internally causing the fuel pump relay to be commanded continuously on, injector driver circuits are inoperative, or failed communication to the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster).
This all needs to be confirmed through diagnostic procedures. I recommend having your vehicle’s fuel pump never shuts off, truck won’t start condition be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
Not getting enough fuel car will not run right. It stalls when you give it gas and stalls when it’s running. It’s a 1984 Ford Escort.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.
Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.
If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.
Problem with battery discharging over a couple of hours. Alternator getting hot while running very quickly.
ANSWER : This may be related to a voltage regulator malfunction. This is the resister on the passenger fender well that you are referring to. This is a device that monitors the charging system to be sure the battery is charged at the rate and voltage that it should be. When this is not functioning correctly, this will cause the battery to die intermittently which can also cause the alternator to work harder than normal as well. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic diagnose the charging system issue in person to verify the problem and proceed with the proper repair.
My car shut off while at a stoplight. I got it started only for it to shut off agin. It starts then shuts off.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle is stalling due to an electrical issue (typically pertaining to power supply or a sensor), a lack of fuel, or a failure with the ignition (spark) system. You will want to start by scanning the vehicle for diagnostic troubleshooting codes. Use any information found there to help guide you to the system or component that is failing. Without that information, you will want to test the fuel pump, ignition cables, spark plugs, and alternator function. Further testing may need to be done based on those results. For more help with diagnostics, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
I have a 1968 Chevy Custom 10 truck with the original 327small block engine it was running great until I tried to turn it off and
ANSWER : Hi there. When the engine continues running after turning off the ignition switch, it typically is due to a failure of the ignition switch, ignition relay or the ignition lock cylinder. It could also be a faulty ground wire causing this problem. If you removed the distributor coil wire to shut off the engine, I doubt engine damage occurred. It is probably a good idea to have one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a car will not start inspection, so they can identify the root source of your problem, and recommend or complete the right repairs.
