Hi Steven, I have a 1995 pontiac grand am, quad4 16 valve. Today the upper radiator hose broke and I replaced it. The problem I am

ANSWER : There could be trapped air in the cooling system. The sensor could be dirty or defective or there could be a fault in the warning circuit. In some applications, there is a potential delay (documented in the Factory Service Manual) for the sensor to reset once you have completed the repair and refilled the cooling system. If there is no overheating, especially due to trapped air, and the cooling system is full (check when stone cold and check reserve tank, too, of course) and yet the warning light remains on for more than three days, the recommended service to get this resolved is a warning light diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Access to the hose is clear. On a vehicle of this age, if you are replacing one radiator hose, really all should be replaced, including the heater hoses, due to the inevitable deterioration of rubber products. YourMechanic does perform radiator hose replacements on a mobile basis and so feel free to set up a mobile visit to have the hose(s) replaced. If you replace the hoses(s) yourself, be sure to use any available purge points to remove trapped air as you refill the cooling system. Trapped air can cause engine overheating until it dislodges.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Correct, you want to place the hose clamp between the two raised lips. If the hose will willfully go over the second lip, that is fine. The goal is to have the hose beyond the first lip, and have that lip there to give the clamp something to hold the hose on with. The second lip is to give an area for the hose to recede down into so the hose clamp can get a good grip. The longer the hose stays in place, the more the hose will form to the area giving you a good seal.

ANSWER : Hello – although this cooling system hose looks much like an octopus, it can be changed without removing the radiator. It does require small hands and a bit of "technique". For assistance, I would recommend a radiator hose service by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Coolant leaks no matter how big or small should be addressed as soon as possible. As you noticed, the engine will run hot with a low coolant level. Even a minor leak can expand to a large or catastrophic leak with no warning. A minor repair now can turn into engine overheat and damage. The leak can be small enough now that it is burning away when contacting hot surfaces and not hitting the ground. If the radiator leaking is the cause of the coolant loss, then it should be replaced as soon as possible. The cooling system operates under pressure – usually 12-15 psi. A small leak can become a large leak because of the pressure. Have a certified technician address this as soon as possible. Do not use "coolant leak sealer" products as they are a temporary fix and can actually cause more damage by clogging small coolant passages and damage the water pump as well.

ANSWER : If you have not done a job like this before you might want to consider watching a professional from YourMechanic do it for you, especially as the labor time is less than 1.5 hours so it’s pretty economical. The first order of business, of course, is to make sure that the upper hose is actually leaking and you don’t have a different issue such as a crack is the radiator itself where the hose attaches. Also, if that hose is leaking due to a break in aged rubber, the other "old" hoses should be inspected as well. A radiator hose replacement entails removing any plastic shields that prevent access to the hose(s). Then, you have to drain the coolant to a level below the lowest point that you will be working at. The hose clamps are removed and then you have to carefully "debond" the hose from the point it is attached to the tank. Over time, the rubber will bond really tightly to the radiator and you have to break the seal with damaging or severely scratching the radiator "nipple" (the part the hose slides over). Then you slip the new hose on (with clamps already loosely applied), apply the clamps and you are ready to refill. When refilling, you have to open the cooling system bleeder screws (if equipped) to ensure that air does not get trapped. Trapped air could cause the car to overheat as trapped air can block coolant flow.

ANSWER : Hi there. Anytime you replace major air conditioning system components like the AC compressor, it’s recommended to purchase all supporting hardware and replace it at the same time. AC works as a series of individual components working efficiently together to create cool air that flows into your cabin. As such, if you’re replacing the front expansion valve, it’s a good idea to replace the rear at the same time. This increases overall efficiency of the system, reduces the potential of small component failure and allows the parts you replaced to last longer.

ANSWER : Hi there. Completing a compression or pressure test might help diagnose the source of your problem, but I would suspect if you’re not finding a leak, that the issue is a blown head gasket. Two ways of determining if this is the case. First, check your engine oil. If the oil is milky, this means coolant is getting inside the engine oil galley’s some how, most likely due to a blown head gasket or cracked engine block. Second, check for signs of white smoke from the exhaust. This is also an indicator of coolant. Coolant has to go somewhere, and if you’re constantly running low on coolant and having consistent overheating problems; with no visible leak, the issue is probably internal.