hesitant when i press the gas. and rpms below 1k at idle and makes grinding noise when started

When i start my truck i think it misfires or something because it will make a loud grinding noise and it will only go to 1k rpms barely at idle if it even stays on. I can only get up to 30 mph and even that takes some time. I cant make it up hills at all, and the cat. Converter gets red hot. Its really hesitant when i press the gas and when i let go it trys to die so i have to press the clutch to keep it on and thats barely even working at this point. The oil gage is on the other side of the needle if that matter. And a boot on the small hose connected to the air filter hose and the top of the
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. From the description you have provided, there would appear to a combination of problems, going on with your vehicle. The grinding sound as you start the engine may be starter related and could be the result of excessive cranking. The engine misfiring and barely staying on, could be caused by a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Removing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and seeing raw fuel would be an indication, replacement is required. The catalytic converter getting red hot, is an indication of excessive fuel entering the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter may be damaged/restricted at this point and could be part of the reason there is such a lack of power. The clutch barely working may be, time for clutch replacement. The oil pressure gauge needle on the other side could be, a faulty oil pressure sending unit. Replacement of components without proper diagnoses, can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. I recommend having your vehicle’s lack of power be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.
If there is carbon buildup within any part of the system, including the idle air control valve, throttle body, or possibly even the EGR valve, it can cause surging. The car`s computer essentially miscalculates the amount of power necessary, and ends up overshooting, leading to a surging engine.
A rough idle is one symptom of a clogged fuel filter. Failing Electrical Components: A problem or failure in the ignition system or various electronic components can cause a rough idle. If this is the case, the problem will usually get worse as RPMs increase.
This hesitation while accelerating can be the result of a number of issues, including something like a clogged fuel filter or even a broken fuel pump. Sometimes, something could also be wrong with the transmission.
A common cause is a problem with the spark plugs or ignition system. Other potential causes include a blockage in the fuel line, a faulty oxygen sensor, or a problem with the mass air flow sensor. Vacuum leakages can also cause a delay in acceleration. A clogged air filter or low engine oil level can also be a cause.
A sputtering engine may just mean you need to have your fuel filter replaced. All vehicles have a series of vacuum hoses that create the fuel pressure. If one of them leaks or is damaged in any way, you will lose significant fuel pressure. The vehicle`s exhaust system can greatly impact the engine`s performance.
What could the problem be? There are a range of reasons why your car is juddering when you accelerate. Your vehicle could have dirty fuel injectors, a damaged fuel pump, a blocked catalytic converter, a faulty mass airflow sensor, broken spark plugs, or even an accumulation of moisture.
Vacuum leaks can cause car surging when accelerating on engines with either a Mass Air Flow system (MAF) or Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) system. Regarding engine surging while cruising, it depends on the type of fuel injection system. An internal combustion engine needs a mixture of air and fuel to create a combustion.
Car engine surge can cause the engine to lose the RPMs for a moment and suddenly regain it at normal speed. This is usually caused due to an issue in the car`s computer system. Besides, there can be several reasons behind engine surges, depending on the vehicle`s specifications.
Engine Misfires

Perhaps the single most common cause of rough idle comes in the form of a misfiring engine. As you may know, any automotive engine contains multiple cylinders. Each of these cylinders contributes to powering your car by combusting a mixture of gasoline and air.

Dirty/Faulty Fuel Injectors – Fuel injection systems play an essential role in starting your vehicle. The system injects fuel and air into the cylinders. If clogged or gummed up, the injectors don`t provide the right mix of fuel and air, resulting in a rough idle or slow acceleration.
Rough starts, hesitation and poor acceleration are all common symptoms of a bad spark plug. If a spark plug or multiple spark plugs are faulty, they will have trouble creating the spark that causes the ignition process in your vehicle.
Many supposed carburetor-related problems like low-speed hesitation can be traced to improper ignition timing.
When you press down the accelerator pedal and get minimal output, it could mean you have a problem with your fuel system. The most probable issue is a clogged fuel filter. Your fuel filter works to ensure that dirt and debris do not get into the fuel system.
A clogged fuel injector can prevent the fuel your car needs to accelerate, thus causing you car to jerk in the process. If you hear your car engine stuttering, then the injectors may not be providing an adequate amount of fuel. To fix this, you should clean the injectors on a regular basis.
A car that feels dragging may be due to worn tires, low tire pressure, or a problem with the brakes. A clogged fuel filter, dirty air filter, or oxygen sensor can also cause a car to feel dragging. Fuel injectors, spark plugs, and the catalytic converter can also cause a car to feel dragging.
The most common cause of engine sputtering are issues with the fuel system. These can range from bad fuel filters, fuel pump issues, or fuel injector issues. The other possible source of the problem would be due to poor ignition – think spark plugs or ignition coil problems.
Low engine oil can cause a misfire, and it is very likely that the cause of the misfire was indeed the low oil pressure in your vehicle. There are three common ways low oil can cause a misfire: Your oil filter is damaged, reducing oil flow, causing improper valve timing, and resulting in a misfire.
In addition to vibrations, a damaged mount also causes heavy jerks and jolts when you change gears, as the transmission too is attached to the engine unit. This jerk can be noticed at higher speeds, or simply when you change gears.
The problem may involve an annoying change (up/down) of engine speed while cruising at a steady pace, a low drop (or even cut-out) at idle or when approaching a stop, a wild high engine speed of several thousand rpm followed by a drop to near zero, etc.
Stalling, surging, or hesitating while idling all can be caused by this unassuming sensor. The best way to determine if these issues are caused by your throttle position sensor is to go to the source. By using a multimeter, you can determine if the sensor has an electrical connection issue.
Replace the sensor with a compatible one and correctly install the crankshaft position sensor to ensure that the engine runs optimally and safely. A qualified technician can prevent further issues with RPM fluctuations while driving by installing the sensor correctly.
Diagnosing Engine Hesitation

Start by checking the engine computer with a scan tool, for any fault codes. A code P0171 or P0174 (or both), indicate the engine is running lean. This means there is too much air and/or not enough fuel. Consequently, the air/fuel mixture, is not being properly, enriched or is going lean.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

hesitant when i press the gas. and rpms below 1k at idle and makes grinding noise when started
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, there would appear to a combination of problems, going on with your vehicle. The grinding sound as you start the engine may be starter related and could be the result of excessive cranking. The engine misfiring and barely staying on, could be caused by a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Removing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and seeing raw fuel would be an indication, replacement is required. The catalytic converter getting red hot, is an indication of excessive fuel entering the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter may be damaged/restricted at this point and could be part of the reason there is such a lack of power. The clutch barely working may be, time for clutch replacement. The oil pressure gauge needle on the other side could be, a faulty oil pressure sending unit. Replacement of components without proper diagnoses, can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. I recommend having your vehicle’s lack of power be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

Car makes grinding noise – 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in. I would have a professional mechanic check out the constant velocity joints on your vehicle. One or more of them may be worn enough to cause the noises you describe. S/he can diagnose and replace any failed CV joints.

when i turn it make little noise. when press on brake and put on reverse it’s makes weird noise and shakes. thank you
ANSWER : It sounds like you may be dealing with a few issues. I would start by asking if there is a check engine light on? If there is, then getting the engine control module scanned for faults would be the first step to diagnosing the low power issue. As far as the noise over bumps and when turning, there could be a damaged CV joint or axle shaft, or there could be a loose suspension or steering component. Weak motor mounts could cause a weird noise and shake when going into reverse with your foot on the brake, so it’s possible those have failed as well. I would suggest having a qualified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose the noise over bumps and the noise when put in reverse.

Grinding noise when starting engine.
ANSWER : Hi there:

Improper alignment or installation of the starter can cause this grinding noise to occur. However, it’s also possible that internal components inside the starter, the starter relay or the flywheel teeth could also be the source. It’s really difficult to diagnose a noise without physically being there to inspect the vehicle on site, so you should have a mobile mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection, so they can pinpoint the issue and recommend the right repairs.

Issue with Mazda 626, starts up then makes a grinding noise while in park
ANSWER : Your symptoms suggest that the starter solenoid contacts are burned enough to stick in the "Start" position (engaging the starter drive and motor), even when the ignition switch is not energizing the relay portion of the starter solenoid. The starter motor continues to run after the motor starts, causing the horrible grinding. Eventually, the engine speed kicks the start drive back enough to jar the contacts loose, and things are fine – until the next time the solenoid contacts stick. Replace the starter solenoid – usually packaged as a starter assembly.

I would recommend having the starter replacement job completed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who can assist you at your home.

High Idle, stalls when a/c or defrost is turned on and dies completely after some rough idling. If turned back off car is fine.
ANSWER : Hi there. The fact you able to get the idle speed to drop by tapping the gas pedal, lead me to believe the high idle is due to a sticking accelerator cable. Another possibility could be, a faulty throttle body not allowing the throttle to return to the closed position. Proper diagnoses should be performed to avoid unnecessary repairs. I recommend having your vehicles high idle be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

grinding noise while turning right or driving straight
ANSWER : Hello. If the noise is still there when the engine is off and if you are not turning the wheel, then it is typically either a failing bearing in the rear differential or it can be a failure in the transfer case if it is four wheel drive.

The transfer case is a very common failure on this vehicle. If it is two wheel drive then I typically start by draining the oil from the rear differential and inspecting the fluid for metal.

Any metal in the fluid indicates a bearing failure. If that is also fine, then it may be an issue within the transmission. It may be a failure in one of the thrust bearings. If you need to get this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your car’s grinding noise.

The truck wasn’t starting up or making any noise. I replaced the starter and it still doesn’t want to start up. It just makes a clicking noise
ANSWER : Hey there. You have a bad battery or there is a bad connection in the starting system. The battery should be load tested and the state of charge should be checked with a hydrometer. Your starter requires about ten times more power from the battery than any other system in your car. Even if the headlights and all other electrical components work, it is not a good indicator of the condition of the battery. So a thorough testing of the battery should be performed first.

If the battery checks out, then the problem is a bad connection in the starting circuit. The first test I do, which may be irrelevant since you have already replaced the starter, is to tap on the starter with a hammer while someone is attempting to start it. If it cranks the motor, it needs a starter. It is possible a new starter is bad, so there is still some value in performing this test.

If this doesn’t reveal a bad starter, another simple and test is to attempt to crank the car for up to thirty seconds. Pay attention to smoke or any electrical burning smells that might occur. If you experience one of these, immediately stop and look under the hood for a hot spot in the battery cable connections. Feel both battery posts, the positive and negative battery cables, the ground connection at the frame and the main power connection at the starter. If any of these are hot or warm, it is a bad connection.

If that doesn’t reveal anything, the next step is to use a test light to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the ignition switch. If it is not, you will need to use a test light to find our where the connection is lost. The suspect parts are the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch (aka the transmission range switch). You will need access to a wiring diagram and a test light for this portion of the testing.

If you should require further assistance, I recommend having a professional technician, like one from YourMechanic, diagnose your starting issue so that this can be repaired.