Fuel EVAP line that runs under car is kinked how do I know if it is leaking? Also can I drive it like that if it’s not leaking?
I bought a car from an auction, it has a kinked Fuel EVAP line that runs underneath the driver's seat under car. I cannot drive the car in the street yet. The car runs fine stationary, I have reved it up and I can't smell gas or nothing. Does the EVAP light error on dash turn on when stationary when there is a leak? Or does the car have to be running down the road for it to find the leak and therefore turn the light on?how do I find if there's a leak?
My car has 13000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. In most cases, an EVAP leak will create an OBD-II trouble code, which is the best way to detect an EVAP leak. By having a professional mobile mechanic complete a check engine light inspection, they will be able to download the code and determine the source of the leak. In most cases, it’s an EVAP purge solenoid that is faulty.
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An EVAP leak can cause a variety of issues, including a decrease in fuel efficiency, an increase in emissions, and a decrease in engine performance. If left unchecked, an EVAP leak can also cause damage to the catalytic converter, which can be expensive to repair.
EVAP System Problems
When a purge valve in the canister opens, the fumes are sent to the engine where they`re burned up. However, a problem with the EVAP system could allow these fuel vapors to escape, causing your car to smell like gasoline.
The EVAP system leak error means the sensor detected the Evaporated fuel in the gas tank is leaking. If this fault is detected multiple times, it is recommended to have the vehicle serviced by a mechanic to resolve the leak.
An evap leak is the same thing as a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will certainly cause the engine to run roughly. I would recommend having your vacuum levels checked with a vacuum gauge by a qualified professional to determine whether they are in specification.
While it is safe to drive with an EVAP system leak, it causes excess car pollution. Fixing the problem is often as simple as tightening the gas cap.
The most common causes for EVAP leaks include bad seals and O-rings, a failing purge valve, a damaged hose or vent, or a defective leak detection pump. As you might have guessed, there`s no real way to prevent one of those components from failing unless you`d like to regularly replace components of your fuel system.
When you have a leak in your EVAP system it will cause a check engine light to come on, but will not immediately affect your drivability. While you drive around, however, you are letting harmful fuel vapors escape into the atmosphere and adding to the greenhouse effect that is linked to global warming.
The gas cap is a part of the vehicle`s evaporative emissions system and can cause problems with the system if it has an issue. An improperly sealing fuel cap may cause an evap system leak, which will set off the Check Engine Light when the the computer detects the leak.
That engine light on the dash may well take a back seat. After all, it could mean a lot of things, and perhaps even nothing. If it indicates an EVAP leak, then it`s most likely safe for you to keep driving, but safer for you to get it fixed right away.
A bad evaporative leak detection pump can cause your vehicle to fail a smog test. Many factors can cause a bad evaporative leak detection pump, but there is a single warning sign of a bad evaporative leak detection pump: Your Check Engine Light illuminates.
Common signs of a problem with a car EVAP canister purge solenoid include rough idle, difficulty starting, and the Check Engine Light turning on.
EVAP systems are designed to operate and test at a very low pressure of about 12 inches of water – that is about one-half PSI. Testing them at pressures above 7 psi could blow off hoses or damage the pressure sensor. Always use a smoke machine that regulates that applied pressure to less than 7 psi.
An EVAP trouble code could be caused by something as simple as a loose or worn gas cap, a leak in a hose, problems with a purge valve or even a rusty fuel filler pipe.
It can take anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. Replacing your gas cap is the easiest and cheapest fix for around $20, while locating an EVAP leak in either the vacuum feed lines or charcoal canister may be more difficult and run you upwards of $600.
Also known as the evaporator core, this component helps regulate AC temperature by cycling refrigerant through the system–essentially converting warm air to cool air with the help of the engine`s blower fan and compressor. A leak in the evaporator coil disrupts this process and eventually causes the system to fail.
Bad Gas, What are the Symptoms? If you`ve inspected the gas cap, the problems you are having may be due to contaminated fuel. If a car, truck, or SUV has trouble starting, will not accelerate, or just is not running smoothly, then it`s possible you just have a contaminated tank of gas.
Missing oil caps can cause your PCV system to pull in air from the breather cap and into your engine`s intake system, ultimately resulting in a vacuum leak.
The fuel tank may build excessive pressure due to a blocked vent. This could cause fuel to spray on occupants or bystanders when opening the fuel cap, potentially causing injury. Additionally, if an ignition source was present, this could create a risk of fire, causing injury and/or damage to property.
The EVAP system is designed to stop fuel system fumes from leaking directly into the atmosphere. Vent lines from the fuel tank pass vapors to the vapor canister, where they are trapped and stored until the engine is started.
The national cost for a fuel evaporative canister replacement in 2023 is between $80 and $581 with an average of $183.
A rough idling engine can be caused by spark plugs or spark plug wires. Spark plugs use the electrical current received from ignition coils to ignite the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. A plug that is damaged or installed incorrectly can result in fuel being burned at an inconsistent rate.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Fuel EVAP line that runs under car is kinked how do I know if it is leaking? Also can I drive it like that if it’s not leaking?
ANSWER : Hi Ricardo. We answered your question earlier. However, if you didn’t receive the reply, here is what we stated earlier. In most cases, an EVAP leak will create an OBD-II trouble code. The best way to detect an EVAP leak is by having a professional mobile mechanic complete a check engine light inspection, they will be able to download the code and determine the source of the leak. That’s the best advice we can offer you. Thanks.
Fuel EVAP line that runs under car is kinked how do I know if it is leaking? Also can I drive it like that if it’s not leaking?
ANSWER : Hi there. In most cases, an EVAP leak will create an OBD-II trouble code, which is the best way to detect an EVAP leak. By having a professional mobile mechanic complete a check engine light inspection, they will be able to download the code and determine the source of the leak. In most cases, it’s an EVAP purge solenoid that is faulty.
I have a bent EVAP line that’s bent underneath the car, how do I know if it’s leaking? Also if it’s not leaking is it ok to drive?
ANSWER : The car’s self diagnostics should be able to tell you if there is a leak in the line, The EVAP monitor will pull a vacuum on the tank and keep track of the fall in pressure. It will light the check engine light if it detects a fault. But the monitor only runs under certain conditions: when the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full of gas, so if the tank is too full or too empty, you will not get a test. If you get a CEL or If you smell fuel, don’t drive the car until the problem is fixed. The catalytic converter may get hot enough to ignite any escaping vapors. If you decide you want to delegate that job, you can contact Your Mechanic. they can send a technician to your home or office to check out your EVAP system and recommend a fix.
Not getting enough fuel car will not run right. It stalls when you give it gas and stalls when it’s running. It’s a 1984 Ford Escort.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.
Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.
If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.
the car is acting like its getting to much fuel. changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the fuel pump relay.
ANSWER : There could be a few things contributing to your problem. You are correct that clogged or sticking fuel injectors and possibly the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. A plugged catalytic converter can also cause the vehicle to bog down. A failing throttle position sensor can cause the symptoms you describe as well. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.com, do a few tests to determine the exact cause of your starting concern.
Have trash in fuel line the car still runs but hesitats and cuts off do u think if i get just a fuel line its ok? 1994 Ford
ANSWER : Hello – if you believe there is "trash" in the fuel system, I would do a "back-to-front" cleaning. Make sure the tank is flushed of debris and old gas, replace the fuel filter, flush fuel lines to the carb/injection. Clean or rebuild the carb or fuel injectors. Flush any return lines. Unless this repair is approached in a systematic fashion, you won’t really know where the problem is until you have clean fuel, consistently, at the right pressure. I would recommend a fuel system inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
In my 2016 Nissan Altima, what are the fuel lines that run underneath the car under driver’s side.
ANSWER : Hello. You will have two brake lines, a pressurized fuel line, and an evaporative emissions line. The smaller metal lines are the brake fluid lines and the other are fuel system lines.
I have a 1981 e-350 with dual fuel tanks the p.o. added a third tank and 3 electric fuel pumps along with sepparate gauges and swi
ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
