Ecu problem wanting to make sure

ANSWER : If you have confirmed that there is a loud grinding noise on starter activation, that means one thing and one thing only: the starter motor is failing, likely due to an internal fault such as a bad starter drive gear, and will eventually stop working. Depending on the mode of failure, teeth on the flex plate that engage with the starter can get damaged. Even as the problem is only intermittent now, the wisest thing to do is schedule starter replacement.

ANSWER : Rami: The areas of immediate concern when it comes to rust are brake and fuel lines and suspension or frame components. Rust on exterior sheet metal (body panels) is somewhat "cosmetic" although of course I understand that nobody wants to drive a car with visible rust. Technically speaking, and from the standpoint of safety and the cost of repairs, what you have to look for is rust on steel tubing carrying fluids and rust on the frame or suspension components. Typically, on a 4 year old car, you are not going to see anything meaningful in the way of rust in the underhood area. It will be difficult to determine the complete condition of the tubing through photographs unless they are incredibly numerous and complete.

Inasmuch as used car repair, maintenance, and restoration costs are highly dependent on the actual, as found, condition of the vehicle, the only way to get a reasonably precise estimate of costs you might face, and also to protect yourself in the transaction, is to request a pre-purchase vehicle inspection. That inspection, carried out by a certified Mechanic, dispatched to your location, will give you the exact data that you need to make a fully informed, intelligent decision and minimize your risk in buying a used car. If you look at the just cited link for YourMechanic’s inspection service, you will see a long list of the vehicle systems that must be inspected as well as details of YourMechanic’s inspection methodology. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : When a car turns and won’t start, it is called a "crank no start". When this occurs, the first thing you need to do is see what is missing. All internal combustion motors need spark, fuel, injector pulse and camshaft timing to run. If one of these is missing, you have a crank no start. Diagnose the car and see what is missing.

The GM 3.8l motor has been installed in Buicks, Pontiacs and Chevrolets for decades. Particularly during the 90’s and early 00’s, these motors have used an ignition module with three coils mounted to it. This module is prone to just this type of failure. When it gets too hot, it quits working. When it cools off, it starts again. It can also display intermittent no start conditions. This is a pattern failure on this particular motor. Before I would ever replace the module, I would check for spark and injector pulse. If it just lacks spark, I would check for a crank sensor signal and replace the ignition module.

Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, do a few tests first:

Check fuel pressure. If there is none, check the fuse and the relay.
Check for injector pulse with a noid light. If this is missing, I would suspect a crank sensor. It could be a bad Power Control Module (PCM). (PCM’s are very rare to fail. I have never changed a PCM on one of these cars.)
Check for spark with a spark tester. If it is lacking spark but has injector pulse, suspect the ignition module.

If all these are present, I would take a compression test of all the cylinders. If camshaft timing is off, several of the cylinders will have significantly lower compression. Also, camshaft timing won’t start sometimes then not others; it will either start and run bad or it won’t start at all. It may sound like it is trying to start, but it won’t start.

If all of this sounds to daunting, I recommend booking a car is not starting inspection with YourMechanic

Good luck!

ANSWER : You need to have some of the codes like the first three diagnosed using the proper pinpoint tests until a problem is found. You may have an electrical harness short or a cut that is causing all the codes.

Only a thorough test can isolate the failure and you should not replace the ECM unless the pinpoint test says it is the cause.

If you’d like to get this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the trouble codes firsthand and help make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : Since this car is well over 30 years old then it is not valued anymore by the book value but by its collectors value. You need to keep in mind that the parts for any repairs it may need minor or major parts may not be around anymore. If a fender gets damaged then it cannot be found. The ignition and carburetors on the car are not very reliable after the age sets in. You can run into a lot of repairs and finding mechanics that know these older cars are getting hard to find. I recommend having a mechanic like one from YourMechanic do a pre purchase inspection to look for major issues with the car before you purchase it.

ANSWER : Hi there:

If the driver side doors are the only ones that unlock when you press the power lock button, then it’s more than likely that you have a damaged main power lock control module or electrical relay to the passenger side doors that’s causing this issue. However, to be certain that you get the right repairs completed on your Volkswagen, you might want to have a professional mechanic complete a power door locks are not working inspection first.

ANSWER : Hello. If the noise only occurs when turning, it is typically caused by a failing CV axle. When one of the joints on the axle fails, it will start to make the noise you are hearing. I typically get the vehicle in the air and inspect the suspension and brakes for any other loose parts. If none, are found then it is the axle.

If you need to have this taken care of, consider YourMechanic. A certified mechanic can come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose the clicking sound, and recommend the best path to repair.

ANSWER : Let me answer your last question first regarding ultimate longevity. So long as the vehicle does not have, or does not develop, extensive (frame damaging) rust the vehicle will last forever, simply because any and all mechanical components on any vehicle can be repaired or refurbished endlessly. So, economically and technically speaking, the only thing that ends the life of a motor vehicle is rust (extensive rust on a motor vehicle frame is NOT economic or practical to repair). Most cars are sold prematurely because people get bored or, and this is a serious impediment to longevity by a given owner, can’t find an economical enough source for repairs (that’s why YourMechanic is a good solution for the public, by the way, due to the lowered costs of repairs). At any rate, my car is 27 years old. It works just like the day I bought it more than a quarter century ago and if I don’t get another 20 years out of it, I will complain to the manufacturer. In comparison to my car, your proposed 2003 model is brand new! If you bought the 2003 car, it could last you another 20 years or more.

With regard to the vehicle you are interested in, you want to confirm that the vehicle has NEVER been in a collision (Carfax might be helpful) and that the vehicle does NOT have any outstanding recall-related repairs. Apart from that, inasmuch as used car repair, maintenance, and restoration costs are highly dependent on the actual, as found, condition of the vehicle, the only way to get a reasonably precise estimate of costs you might face, and also to protect yourself in the transaction, is to request a pre-purchase vehicle inspection. That inspection, carried out by a certified Mechanic, dispatched to your location, will give you the EXACT data you are seeking. If you look at the just cited link for YourMechanic’s inspection service, you will see a long, long list of the vehicle systems that must be inspected as well as details of YourMechanic’s inspection methodology. You have additional valuable options, too, insofar as getting useful data about the vehicle model. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration maintains a free database of consumer complaints, official recalls and factory service bulletins for all makes and models, by year. I encourage you to go to the NHTSA website and enter your vehicle’s specific year, make and model and review the existing reports which will give you an excellent overview of what has actually been experienced by other owners insofar as faults in the particular vehicle you are interested in. I would post the text of the reports here, but they are detailed so it will be more practical for you to view them online (it is free). In addition, "Consumer Reports" publishes system-by-system vehicle reliability data for all years, makes, and models. This data is available free in the library or on-line if you are a paid subscriber. That reliability data will give you an excellent indication of the relative likelihood that key systems on the model (and year) of interest to you will fail at greater, or lesser, frequency compared to those rates reported for other vehicles. Obviously, what you want to be looking for in that database is an indication that the vehicle "make and model year" is not a "lemon" insofar as reliability. If you are unable to access any of these resources, or desire data of a different type, please do not hesitate for a moment to re-contact YourMechanic and we will assist you further in your attempts to make a wise used vehicle purchase.