Charging System Not Working (Alternator is not kicking in)

While driving home this past Tuesday I noticed the Instrument Cluster gauges were not working and they had worked the prior day. Also it seemed the overdrive was not kicking in either. As I was driving home I noticed the the lights in the dash board were dimming out as if the car losing power. Five minutes after I noticed the lights dimming out the car died on me. I had it towed suspect it was the alternator and since it was under warranty I received another one and had the batter charged. I installed everything back on the car the charging system is still not kicking to charge the battery, al
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The battery should be load tested by a professional. Load testing can only be reliably performed on a fully charged battery. If the battery passes a load test, you have to be sure it is NOT a marginal pass in which case you should install a new battery to reduce diagnostic headaches. Batteries are a VERY important component in a car’s electrical system so the condition of the battery is a threshold issue in your circumstance. Check the integrity of all electrical connections including grounds to the frame in the charging circuit. Even a tiny bit of added resistance will cause enough of a voltage drop that systems just won’t work right. The output of the alternator has to be tested at the battery posts. If the charging output is out of spec. (typically lower than 14.5 volts, but your Factory Service Manual is the authority) then the charging circuit is simply traced until the fault is found and repaired. Again, it could just simply be a high resistance (faulty) connection. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a battery/charging system diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The alternator belt is the connection that interfaces the crankshaft and alternator together. If your car`s alternator belt isn`t working properly, your car battery won`t get the charge it needs for your vehicle`s electrical parts. With that, your car battery light will frequently be on to indicate such an issue.
A bad alternator won`t sufficiently charge the battery while the engine is running, causing the charge to deplete faster than usual. One way to test whether the issue is battery- or alternator-related is to jumpstart the car. If you jumpstart your car and it stays running, your battery may need replacing soon.
Alternator Low Voltage Between 10-20% of rated output

This indicates lack of excitation, which could be: The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) fuse (if fitted) has blown. The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) has failed. A break in the excitation circuit between the AVR and the exciter stator.

The voltage regulator controls the amount of power distributed from the alternator to the battery in order to control the charging process. Regulators are designed with different functions and work depending on their specification.
The red battery light could indicate a problem with the alternator, battery or other parts of the electrical and charging system in the car. It could be a minor problem such as a malfunction rectifier unit, blown fuse or cabling short circuit.
Make sure your alternator`s positive and negative terminals are clean. Put the multimeter`s black cable to the negative terminal and the red cable to the positive terminal. Look for an ideal alternator reading of around 12.6. Start the car, and look for a reading of between 14.2 and 14.7.
One of the most common problems you`re likely to experience with an alternator is a failure in the bearings. There are needle bearings in the alternator that allow the rotor to freely spin inside the housing, and those bearings can break down over time as a result of exposure to heat and dirt.
Age and use-related wear is often the reason behind a dying alternator. Engine oil or power steering fluid leaking onto the car alternator can lead to its failure. Prolonged idling while using multiple electrical accessories can prematurely wear the alternator.
A good alternator should produce about 13.5 to 14.5 volts with the engine idling. If the voltage reading is low (12.5 volts or less), it indicates a charging problem but does not tell you what`s causing it.
Age and use-related wear is often the reason behind a dying alternator. Engine oil or power steering fluid leaking onto the car alternator can lead to its failure. Prolonged idling while using multiple electrical accessories can prematurely wear the alternator.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Charging System Not Working (Alternator is not kicking in)
ANSWER : The battery should be load tested by a professional. Load testing can only be reliably performed on a fully charged battery. If the battery passes a load test, you have to be sure it is NOT a marginal pass in which case you should install a new battery to reduce diagnostic headaches. Batteries are a VERY important component in a car’s electrical system so the condition of the battery is a threshold issue in your circumstance. Check the integrity of all electrical connections including grounds to the frame in the charging circuit. Even a tiny bit of added resistance will cause enough of a voltage drop that systems just won’t work right. The output of the alternator has to be tested at the battery posts. If the charging output is out of spec. (typically lower than 14.5 volts, but your Factory Service Manual is the authority) then the charging circuit is simply traced until the fault is found and repaired. Again, it could just simply be a high resistance (faulty) connection. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a battery/charging system diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

My service charging system battery light is on after replacing my alternator with a brand new one. It is not charging my battery.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Several things may be going on. The installation of the new alternator needs to be verified, focusing on the electrical connections and the drive belt. Make sure the connections are clean, dry, and tight. Make sure the drive belt is routed properly and is tight on the alternator pulley (as it is what powers the alternator). If the installation was fine, you will want to make sure the alternator was not faulty from the factory. It is not common, but these issues have been known to happen. Most automotive parts stores can test the alternator off of the vehicle. If you would like more help with testing, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

My Honda Civic 1989, has a issue on alternator overcharged. My a.c system has not worked since 2003, I left it alone. I am going t
ANSWER : Hello Tuan, thank you for writing in. The alternator and the air compressor are both driven and powered by the drive belt. If the belt does not look bad, worn, or old, then it is likely just fine. In this case, you want to make sure the belt is routed properly and is tightened correctly. The auto-tensioner should be checked first, as it is what keeps the belt tight. If the tensioner has failed, the belt may be loose and have extra play. If the belt is fine, then the two separate units have failed by themselves. The alternator can be tested on or off of the vehicle to check for proper output. If tested off of the car, you rule out the vehicle and the drive belt as potential issues. For more help with repairing the alternator or air conditioning, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

how can i fix the charging issues from the alternator to battery
ANSWER : We can repair this for you. The best approach is to return the charging system wiring to the original configuration that is documented in the Factory Service Manual. Once the physical wiring is in place, it is a relatively simple matter to use that same diagram to test charging system output and verify operation. Once everything checks out and consistent alternator output is documented, some final checks are needed to be sure there are no phantom loads or parasitic power draw when the vehicle is either on or off. If you desire to restore the vehicle to the original configuration and get the charging system working, please request an electrical component/circuit diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will commence this repair. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Battery good, alternator good, brand new alternator cable, still not charging.
ANSWER : Hi There,
The first diagnosis of the bad voltage regulator is likely the cause of your charging system not properly charging the battery. When the voltage regulator is not working properly, this may result in the alternator allowing too much power to be delivered to the battery resulting in damaging wires and prematurely sometimes destroying the battery. In other cases it may result in the alternator not supplying enough power to the battery, resulting in undercharging the battery or not charging it at all. In some cases when a battery is too weak or damaged, it may no longer hold a charge for any length of time, in which case the alternator may be doing its job, but the battery is just simply too weak to hold a charge. In either case, I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your vehicle’s charging system.

Is my charging system working properly?
ANSWER : The B Positive terminal on the Alternator (the big one) should be linked to the battery via a cable that connects at the starter, so you shouldn’t read a voltage difference between the Alternator and the battery positive terminal. You may have a fuse-link in the cable that is broken or the cable itself may be damaged or corroded. The voltage at the battery when the car is running should be around 14 volts. You’re going to have to get under the car to inspect this. If you would like to have a professional sort this out for you, you can contact Your Mechanic to have a technician come to your home or office to check out your charging system and tell you what needs to be done.

Just replaced head gasket, changed crack sensor new plugs. The check engine light is on, but dim, the only other light that the dash is a normal battery indicator. The fuel pump is not running when switch is turned on, the power windows don’t work, it turns over but not firing. It’s like only one part of the system is working. Also the heater fans work even if the switch is off.
ANSWER : I would first look at the diagnostic trouble codes. Those codes are available because the check engine light is on. If the fuel pump is not running (momentarily) at key on, that fault alone will prevent the car from starting as there will be no fuel pressure. Pump output and pressure can be directly tested and you can also check for electrical power to the pump. To find out why the engine will not run, the recommended diagnostic is a no start diagnostic. If you request that service, the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Charging System Failure and Battery Light on
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a voltage regulator issue that might not be allowing the alternator to charge the battery sufficiently. The voltage regulator could be allowing the alternator to supply too much or too little amperage to the battery resulting in the battery never maintaining a consistent charge as it is designed to. The voltage regulator is a unit that regulates the charging of the battery by the alternator. When the voltage regulator is not working properly, this may result in the alternator allowing too much power to be delivered to the battery resulting in damaging wires and prematurely sometimes destroying the battery. A common sign of this is usually the acid inside the battery boiling causing the battery to swell. You may also smell a bit of smoke due to things potentially getting too hot. In other cases it may result in the alternator not supplying enough power to the battery, resulting in undercharging the battery or not charging it at all. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your vehicle’s charging system.