Car won’t rev or go when pushing gas pedal. Only revs up in neutral or park unless you work with it to keep it revving
I have a 1996 subaru legacy 2.5 gt an when I crank it up an it can have a cold or hot engine an u push the gas pedal to go an it barely does anything like ur not pushing the pedal but u can put it in park or neutral an hold the gas pedal down an eventually it will Rev up like normal but if u put it bak in gear it does it again finally u can get it to go down the road if u work the pedal right an get it to stay revd. What could be my problem? It has new felpro head gaskets an other new gaskets the came with the felpro head gaskets set. An new fuel filter
My car has 155000 miles.
My car has
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. The first task in solving this problem is to extract problem codes that are set, whether the Check Engine light is on or not. There are several problems which could cause this behavior, such as a bad throttle position sensor, fuel supply issues (low fuel pressure), or a dirty or bad mass air flow sensor. Problem codes will narrow the cause more quickly, and help avoid replacing parts that are not the problem. If you need to have a certified technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the gas pedal problem and follow through with repairs.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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If your engine revs up as you press down on the gas but your vehicle doesn`t accelerate as much as you`d expect, you may be dealing with transmission slipping. If you`ve ever tried to accelerate on ice, where your engine revs but your vehicle goes nowhere, you know the feeling.
It could be due to a problem with the timing belt, the spark plugs, or the fuel injectors. It could also be because you have a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter. The fuel system may also be low on fuel. The accelerator pedal may also be sticking.
There are several problems which could cause this behavior, such as a bad throttle position sensor, fuel supply issues (low fuel pressure), or a dirty or bad mass air flow sensor. Problem codes will narrow the cause more quickly, and help avoid replacing parts that are not the problem.
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.
This problem is going to be an internal transmission front pump not pumping enough pressure or the clutches are bad in the transmission. I recommend having a transmission mechanic test the transmission for solenoid and pressure problems and recommend further repairs needed. You may need a transmission overhaul.
Either you don`t have enough petrol, or you don`t have enough power in your vehicle. There are several causes for your car to lose power significantly while accelerating. The most typical causes of a car not accelerating while driving include a faulty sensor, contaminated fuel or air filters, or a faulty timing belt.
Yes. While the damage may seem small initially, the longer you drive with a bad oxygen sensor, the worse the damage will become. Eventually, you may experience rough idling, poor acceleration, engine misfires, an illuminated check engine light, and failed emission tests.
If a spark plug or multiple spark plugs are faulty, they will have trouble creating the spark that causes the ignition process in your vehicle. This results in your vehicle having trouble starting, hesitating or having issues with accelerating properly.
For gasoline engines, the accelerator pedal opens up the throttle valve, allowing for more air into the engine. Traditionally for diesel engines the pedal is used to regulate the amount of fuel which is injected, as there is not a throttle valve.
When the transmission develops a leak and fluid levels fall, a vehicle will begin to rev at higher levels as a result of the gearbox band or torque converter slipping. The vehicle may also experience irregular or delayed gear shifting. A manual vehicle experiencing this difficulty may be related to a slipping clutch.
“Limp Mode” – If your car won`t accelerate over 25 or 40 mph, it could have engaged `limp mode. ` It is also known as a limp home mode, and it acts as a preservation feature. It is meant to get you home, to an auto mechanic, or safely off the road without destroying your engine.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Car won’t rev or go when pushing gas pedal. Only revs up in neutral or park unless you work with it to keep it revving
ANSWER : Hello. The first task in solving this problem is to extract problem codes that are set, whether the Check Engine light is on or not. There are several problems which could cause this behavior, such as a bad throttle position sensor, fuel supply issues (low fuel pressure), or a dirty or bad mass air flow sensor. Problem codes will narrow the cause more quickly, and help avoid replacing parts that are not the problem. If you need to have a certified technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the gas pedal problem and follow through with repairs.
Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.
When I crank my car it won’t keep running unless I keep my foot on the gas. As soon as I release the gas pedal my car stops running
ANSWER : The first thing you need to check for in a case like yours is air leaks. Check all the rubber parts and hoses under the hood for good condition and connection. The amount of fuel delivered to your engine is determined by the air that flows in and any air that gets in through a leak without being measured means less fuel being injected. There are of course a number of other possible causes; a failed Mass Air Flow Sensor for example, but they will require special skills and equipment to be examined. You can have this conveniently checked out by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your car and let you know exactly what it will take to solve your problem.
Car is accelerating without pushing gas, full rev when placed in park, should I drive it home from work? 28 miles away, oceanside
ANSWER : Hi there. This issue is typically caused by a malfunction of the cruise control system or throttle control. However it can also be caused by something as simple as the carpet or floor mats pressing down on the accelerator accidentally. If you start your car and the throttle continues to accelerate, I would highly recommend not driving the vehicle home; as it’s unsafe to drive. I would double check the floor mat to make sure that’s not the problem and start the car to see if the issue continues. If it does not, drive home careful and get the car to a mechanic as soon as possible.
My windows won’t go down, my instruments don’t work, my car won’t go in park without shift release
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. In most cases, the problems you’re describing are caused by damage to the electrical system either at the fuse box or through relays that send electrical signals to each component that isn’t working; such as your power windows, instrument panel and others. If the vehicle was exposed to lots of water, this may have damaged the electrical system or the vehicle’s on board computer as well. The best way to reduce the stress, time and money on trying to find the exact source of your problems is to have one of our local mechanics inspect your Honda Accord for electrical problems at your home or office.
The engine of the car runs, but when I push the gas pedal it does not accelerate, and the engine does not rev.
ANSWER : Hello. It sounds like you may have an issue with your throttle position sensor. This sensor sends a reference voltage to your power-train control module, which uses that to determine ignition timing and fuel trims. If the power-train control module is not detecting the proper signal from the throttle position sensor, the engine may not accelerate properly. It’s probably a good idea for you to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection first, so they can pinpoint what is causing this issue to occur and they will recommend the right repairs be completed.
My dash board don’t work my front light work when I change my light into high beam and my back window won’t go down
ANSWER : As unfortunate as it is, your vehicle would be considered flood damaged. Diagnosing electrical problems in a flood damaged vehicle is nearly impossible. This would take many hours or even days to determine which wiring harnesses and circuits have been affected. Then nearly all of the wiring under the dash would likely require replacement as well as many sensors and switches. On a BMW vehicle, the amount of wires and switches are likely more than that of a lower end vehicle. Due to the inefficiency in cost, you would likely be able to purchase another BMW like yours for less than what it would cost to fix your car. Many insurance companies would consider this type of damage to total out the vehicle unfortuantely.
I put my 05 nissan altima in neutral to push it because it won’t crank now it will not go past neutral to go in park.
ANSWER : Have you tried depressing the brake pedal while the key is set to run to see if the lock will release? You may have a park/neutral locking solenoid starting to fail. The cranking and no start problem could be something like a failed camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at the stuck shifter and no start concerns in order to offer a more personal diagnosis.
