Car sat for a year now it keeps dying, so what could be wrong?

ANSWER : The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.

ANSWER : I have only seen this situation once in my 30+ years and it turned out to be a broken crankshaft pulley. Belts are driven by the engine. The crankshaft pulley spins the belts, which in turn spin the air conditioner compressor, power steering and water pumps, and the alternator. The vehicle should be towed to your local repair shop and not driven. Without the water pump spinning to circulate the coolant, the engine will quickly overheat and result in more extensive damage.

ANSWER : This relates to the dynamic vehicle control which monitors the control of the vehicle. When it senses the vehicle is potentially out of control it cuts power to the car. It sounds like yours may have a bad control unit interfering and causing the car to die without cause. This is likely something that will need to be diagnosed with a scanning tool which will help to download critical data from the ECU. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose this and make repairs.

ANSWER : Hi There,
8,000 miles on a burnt clutch is certainly a premature failure of the clutch. While there are many reasons this may have happened, getting Audi to warranty this may be a different battle and will be something you would need to address with the Audi dealership. Typically, the clutch slipping occurs when the clutch is in between fully depressed or fully released that bears the most wear. Many people do this without realizing it. Many people also unintentionally use the clutch pedal as a place to rest their foot when driving, however so slight, this will still cause the clutch to slip slightly causing it to burn prematurely. If you would like a second opinion on the condition of your clutch, you may wish to schedule an appointment with one of our qualified experts here at YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hello. If you put too thick of an oil in the car, then you may have damaged the engine bearings but this should not have caused oil to get in to the spark plugs unless the oil got into the intake of the engine or one of the pistons rings broke. If you ran it without oil and then tried to put oil in thinking it would be okay after that, then you were not that lucky and broke or damaged all of the rings on the pistons. If you would like to have this looked over, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the stalling issue and go over all of the relevant systems for a better diagnosis.

ANSWER : It is very possible that the engine has been damaged beyond repair. Usually when the oil light goes on and the vehicle is low on oil, especially when a loud noise is heard right before the vehicle died, it is very likely that the engine is blown and would require replacement in order to continue driving the vehicle. I would recommend having the vehicle checked with a no start inspection. Consider YourMechanic as this service can be completed at your home or office.