Car engine dies

ANSWER : Hello there, many common faults will cause your 2008 Nissan Altima to shut off when put in drive or reverse. The first step in diagnosis is to check the transmission for leaks, and the fluid level and condition. Once the transmission fluid is checked most common faults are the torque converter, Idle air control valve, vacuum leaks, or a wiring harness fault. A qualified Technician such as one from YourMechanic will be able to diagnose your engine shuts off when put in drive and make any repairs required.

ANSWER : It is very possible that the engine has been damaged beyond repair. Usually when the oil light goes on and the vehicle is low on oil, especially when a loud noise is heard right before the vehicle died, it is very likely that the engine is blown and would require replacement in order to continue driving the vehicle. I would recommend having the vehicle checked with a no start inspection. Consider YourMechanic as this service can be completed at your home or office.

ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor. The problem this can cause may also be compounded when the engine is cold due to the change in air density in cooler weather. The mass air flow sensor monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. This sensor relays information about fuel and air temperature, air speed entering the motor and many other things to the ECM which uses this to make adjustments to fuel supply to the motor. A dirty or faulty sensor can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This type of inconsistent fuel supply to the motor may cause a hesitation, loss of power, a jerking reaction, potentially a bit of black exhaust smoke and typically a strong smell of fuel when this sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hello. It sounds like you may have an issue with your throttle position sensor. This sensor sends a reference voltage to your power-train control module, which uses that to determine ignition timing and fuel trims. If the power-train control module is not detecting the proper signal from the throttle position sensor, the engine may not accelerate properly. It’s probably a good idea for you to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection first, so they can pinpoint what is causing this issue to occur and they will recommend the right repairs be completed.

ANSWER : Hello. Your issue is very likely the idle air control valve, or related components. After continuous use for years, these valves become clogged with carbon and other build-up. The valve can be cleaned. You can use a carburetor cleaner, or similar solvent to help dislodge some of the debris. This would be sprayed into your air intake. Keep in mind what is passed through must be consumed by the engine, and it may act funny during that process. You can also have the entire unit replaced. This would be recommended for any damage to the unit that wasn’t related to a simple clog. If there is a short in the system, or the valve has failed, you would likely experience more dramatic symptoms.

ANSWER : Hi there. If there is carbon build up on the valves in the engine then that can cause a rough running condition and even a check engine light but that will not usually cause the vehicle to stall. It sounds like you have another issue going on here. From my experience with this vehicle most of the time this is caused by a voltage issue. Most of the time it is a loose or dirty ground connection or an issue with the ignition switch. I usually start by scanning the computer for codes to see what is coming up as that can assist in finding the issue. If the codes do not help then the electrical system would need to be diagnosed to see where the power is being lost. If you need to have this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to you to [diagnose why the check engine light is on and why the vehicle is stalling] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-is-stalling-inspection

ANSWER : The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : This sounds like there is a problem with the MAF (mass airflow) sensor. When your vehicle is cold, the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in what is known as open loop. Open loop is a preprogrammed program put in place for warm up. Closed loop is when the PCM begins using the sensors to adjust fuel ratio. The primary sensor the PCM uses to make decisions is the MAF. I’m leaning toward three possible problems here. The MAF may have been damaged during cleaning, the connector may have a bent pin from disconnecting and reconnecting its connector or the boot that connects the MAF to the throttle body has developed an air leak.

Before condemning the MAF, make sure there isn’t any unmetered air entering the motor after the MAF. This will confuse the PCM and things just won’t work correctly. Unmetered air is what we call it when there is a leak between the MAF and the throttle body.

Of course, make sure the MAF has been plugged in. If it is, disconnect the connector and inspect the pins. It is fairly common for the small electrical pins in all sensors to get bent over when reconnecting their connector.

It is very easy to damage sensors in the area of the throttle body when cleaning it. Carburetor cleaner can damage sensors. The one I am particularly worried about is the IAC valve. These can stick and cause many different idle control issues.

If this isn’t of any help to you, I recommend having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose your stalling condition for an accurate repair.

Good luck!