Battery went dead. Replaced battery. Engine and battery lights are on.

Battery went dead. Jump started. Went dead again. Got a new battery. Was able to drive home. But battery and engine lights are on. Was told that alternator needed to be replaced. Battery test reading was 11.4. How much should an alternator and labor cost new or rebuilt? Please advise!!

My car has 63000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi There,
As you know, your problem may be related to a faulty alternator resulting from it not properly charging the battery. This may also be related to a faulty voltage regulator. The voltage regulator regulates the rate at which the alternator charges the battery. When this is not working properly, this may allow the alternator to over or under charge the battery, in either case resulting in the battery failing prematurely. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your charging system.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

When a battery is faulty or undercharged, it won`t be able to send the right amount of energy to your vehicle`s computer. This may cause the check engine light to flip on. If you drive a newer model car, you may also have a handy battery warning light on your dashboard.
Even if your lights, radio or accessories turn on, your battery may still be dead or undercharged. These components require a lot less power than the starter. Therefore, your battery may have enough ability to turn the radio/lights on, but not enough to turn on the starter.
The alternator belt is the connection that interfaces the crankshaft and alternator together. If your car`s alternator belt isn`t working properly, your car battery won`t get the charge it needs for your vehicle`s electrical parts. With that, your car battery light will frequently be on to indicate such an issue.
The red battery light could indicate a problem with the alternator, battery or other parts of the electrical and charging system in the car. It could be a minor problem such as a malfunction rectifier unit, blown fuse or cabling short circuit.
A bad battery can cause problems in electrical and electronic parts, including the computer. It can even cause a “Check Engine” light.
Your car battery can drain over time from stereo components (subwoofers), phone chargers, and anything you leave plugged into vehicle outlets that continue to draw power from the battery after the car is turned off. Other power drains include interior and below-vehicle LED lights. Loose or corroded connections.
An effective method to determine whether it`s your battery or alternator that`s gone bad is to connect jumper cables from a running vehicle`s battery to yours. After a few moments, try starting your vehicle. Once it`s started, remove the jumper cables — if your engine stalls, your alternator has probably gone bad.
Issues such as faulty wiring, bad fuses or interior lights that fail to shut off will continue to drain your battery while it`s idle.
No, it`s unlikely that a blown fuse is draining your battery. A fuse is a conduit for electricity. A blown fuse will simply stop a headlight or turn signal from functioning. In some cases, it can lead to an open circuit that draws energy.
It controls these systems based on the data it gets from the numerous sensors inside your automobile. When a battery drains, it may send lower voltages of power which may or may not hurt your PCM. But it can definitely cause some problems that are related to your PCM due to it not receiving enough voltage.
When the battery current sensor fails, the vehicle will not charge correctly, leading to a DTC or a dead battery. Common signs of failure include: Irregular charging rates. Low battery voltage.
The new battery does not have to be configured for the most current car models. Banner conclusion: No registration required; a check of the electrical functions after changing the battery is recommended.
The ECU retains its memory even after the battery has been disconnected and reconnected. On older cars with CCC simply disconnecting battery for a few seconds and reconnecting it will be sufficient to clear the code.
If you know your battery`s good and there`s no obvious reason it`s dying, the alternator and charging system could be at fault. When alternators fail and need replacement, the battery won`t stay charged for long.
One of the most common reasons the battery light comes on and the car battery stops charging is because of corrosion. Whether the corrosion is on the battery cables or cable terminals, it is still a problem that needs to be addressed. Another common culprit for the battery not charging is a problem with the alternator.
If the engine starts but dies immediately, your alternator probably isn`t keeping your battery charged. If a jump starts and keeps your car running, but the car can`t start again off of its own power, a dead battery is probably your answer.
How long can I drive my car with the battery light on? If your battery light stays on while you drive, you`ll have roughly 30-60 minutes to drive with your battery lights on before your car may start stalling.
How long can I drive my car with the battery light on? If your battery light stays on while you drive, you`ll have roughly 30-60 minutes to drive with your battery lights on before your car may start stalling.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

in my car battery warning light appearing while driving.so I have replaced both battery and alternater still light is on
ANSWER : As you may yourself have seen, there are many reports of this fault with the Civic, that is a battery or alternator is replaced only to have the warning light fail to extinguish despite checking every conceivable electrical possibility. Your only recourse is to have a certified mechanic go through that exercise with your car and that involves first attempting to "re-set" the light. If the warning light returns, the alternator output has to be carefully measured both loaded and unloaded. All terminal connections have to be verified including all grounds. Fuses have to be checked for integrity (continuity) and the possibility of shorts, in for example dash wiring, has to be checked. To request this repair, simply request an electrical components diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will seek a resolution to this.

Battery went dead. Replaced battery. Engine and battery lights are on.
ANSWER : Hi There,
As you know, your problem may be related to a faulty alternator resulting from it not properly charging the battery. This may also be related to a faulty voltage regulator. The voltage regulator regulates the rate at which the alternator charges the battery. When this is not working properly, this may allow the alternator to over or under charge the battery, in either case resulting in the battery failing prematurely. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your charging system.

My battery went dead, replaced it with a new one and within 150 miles the Check Engine Warning Light came on.
ANSWER : There are a relatively large number of Technical Service Bulletins that GM has issued covering faults and difficulties with electrical components in your vehicle (ref: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration on-line database which we searched for your year, make and model). Among these numerous Bulletins is GM Service Bulletin SB-10052313-2676 which appears to refer to the specific fan that has failed. The parts identified in the Service Bulletin were at one point difficult to get but I see a GM Bulletin (update) dated June 2016, that suggests the parts are more broadly available now.

Of great relevance, if the failed part that you speak of is the focus of a special Service Campaign (i.e., is covered in the Service Bulletin) you should avail yourself of the possibility that the dealer and GM will consider it as a warranty repair. Such is not unusual.

As far as the alleged three month back-order, on the face of it I don’t believe it (i.e., it is not credible and/or indicates an unwillingness or disinterest in "looking" for the part for you). If you ask the dealer for the exact part number, and if you provide us with the exact part number, we will be glad to do a search on your behalf to determine the availability of the part.

Coincident with that you should contact GM customer service and open a case with them for two reasons:

If a TSB does in fact relate to a fault you are experiencing, there is a possibility that it should be considered a warranty repair
The issue of the "non-availability" of the parts (3 months delay is obviously irrational and inexplicable) has to be resolved.

You should also file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration inasmuch as other consumers rely on the NHTSA database to understand the frequency of failure of parts within these vehicles.

Let us know how we can assist you further but clearly at least two threshold issues could be addressed so that you can move forward with getting the vehicle repaired. If you’d like a second opinion on this, have a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, diagnose the Check Engine Light firsthand and suggest what to do from there. Best of luck.

I have a 2010 camry. I just recently replaced the engine with a 2014 camry engine. Now I have Four engine lights on. I replaced on
ANSWER : If you swapped the engine from a vehicle that is 4 years newer than the car is then you are going to have electrical and sensor incompatibilities that may not be able to be fixed by just a few sensor replacements. There were many changes in computer and emission related items between 2010 and 2014 engines. I would recommend having a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come to you and compare the two engines to isolate the possible differences and see if the problem can be fixed.

Check engine light refuses to go off after engine replaced
ANSWER : Hello there, you have a long series of issues going on with your 2013 Hyundai Sonata. If you keep getting a repeating oil light on than there is likely a fault in that system.

Since this fault has lasted after the engine was replaced it could be a oil pressure sensor, wiring harness fault, ECU fault, oil pump, oil strainer clogged, or low oil pressure.

To diagnose this issue properly you need a complete vehicle inspection to start from square one and identify the root cause of all this.

Abs light, emergency brake light, steering wheel assist light, engine light, EPC light, traction control light
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle does utilize a lot of the same sensors for these systems. Are there any other codes that are coming up when this code appears? If so you will want to take these into consideration when processing the repair and making a diagnosis. The module may be bad, and replacing it should fix the problem. The lights should turn off once the main computer recognizes the new module and the sensors sync up. If you believe the sensors need to be cleaned you may do so. Do as minimal as possible to make sure you are not damaging the sensor or disrupting the wiring inside. A bad connection would make the lights stay on. With so many lights that are effected by the module being illuminated, the module is likely bad or does not have a connection. Check the connection first and then resort to replacing the unit. For more help with these electrical tests, contact our service department.

Battery light goes on when I start car then turns off, if I rev engine light comes back until rpms go down. Abs goes comes on/off
ANSWER : Batteries can die due to faults in the charging system so ideally a suspected "faulty" battery should be load tested before a decision is made to condemn it. The only exception to this rule is if the battery is already clearly "old" (greater than 5 years) but even then once you put a new battery in, as a replacement for a "dead" battery, you have to comprehensively check out the charging system. Diagnostic Trouble Code P0460 will result in disruption of the dashboard fuel gauge’s ability to accurately report your tank’s fuel levels. The fuel gauge readings may be erratic, or read somewhere off scale. Vehicles equipped with a low fuel warning light feature may also suffer from erratic low fuel warnings in the event of a code P0460. Unless the P0460 code has been reported alongside other trouble code, all of the vehicle’s essential systems should otherwise function normally. I would recommend that you request a check engine light diagnostic to first resolve the fault causing the P0460 code to set. The check gas cap light warning light could be due a faulty gas cap and/or small leaks in the EVAP system.

check engine light O2 sensor already replaced same codes still popping up after replacing old O2 sensor
ANSWER : Hi there. What you received from the parts store was a code retrieval, not a diagnostic. The codes are set when a fault is detected against normal operating parameter. The computer does not know what caused the fault, only that the fault meets the criteria for this code to set. There could be a problem in the wire harness, converter, or the ECM. The code and data are needed to properly assess the direction that a diagnosis needs. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a check engine light inspection.