when coming to a stop, my truck has a binding/clunking noise in the rear end
When i come to a stop, i can feel what seems to be binding coming from the rear end of the truck. i can also hear a deep clunking noise. it is particularly worse when i have a large trailer with a load on it. i have put on new axle bearings and seals, replaced the fluid, and i have run out of ideas. i have inspected it and i dont see any major signs of damage on the planetary gears.
My car has 175000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello, thank you for writing in. While the components you have looked into are great inspections considering you tow often, lets start a little simpler and work our way down the list. Since this is happening while you are braking, you should start with a full brake inspection. Check the condition of your brake fluid, pads (or shoes if equipped), lines, master cylinder, booster, guide pins, and condition of the rotors (or drums). A visual inspection will only take you so far, and testing the rotors for example will need to be done with more precise measurements. Then look into your wheel bearings and the rest of the wheel assemblies. Your suspension and steering components also play a huge role in how the vehicle rides under load. For more help diagnosing and resolving the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Clunking Noises
It could be loose calipers that would need to be tightened. If it`s your shock absorbers, they`ll most likely need to be replaced. The problem could also stem from your constant velocity joints being worn out.
It does mean that there may be an issue with your car`s braking system –usually a worn-out part. More specifically, a clunking noise when braking can be due to worn or damaged discs, rotors, calipers, and backing plates. These are also essential parts of the car`s suspension system.
The sensors in the transmission are incorrectly regulating shifting information or your speed… Many transmissions in cars nowadays are controlled by computerized sensors. Often clunking noises can occur because the sensors send incorrect shifting or speed information, creating a problem due to incorrect regulation.
Tie Rods: A clunking noise when turning typically means there`s a loose or broken tie rod. Sway Bar Link: With a failing sway bar link, you will not only notice a knocking noise while you are turning but also poor handling.
Thumping
If your rear brakes are thumping, it`s important to have your brakes examined by a professional. Thumping from the front brakes can be an indicator of rotor damage. Cars that sit outside are prone to rotor rust, which can cause that same thumping. This is another thing to have checked out by a professional.
If the clunk happens when you hit the gas pedal or shift gears, then you are most likely looking at a U-joint or CV joint that is on its way out. An engine mount may also be the culprit if the sound happens when shifting into forward or reverse.
When a front CV axle goes bad, it will make a clunking noise as you make a slow turn. When a rear axle goes bad, the clunking or moaning sound will be in the back.
Sound — Usually the first indication of worn or loose ball joints will be a faint, intermittent clunking noise that seems to be coming from a corner of your vehicle. The sound may be more pronounced when going over a bump or a dip or when going around a corner.
There are four sounds in particular that you should look out for: creaking, grunting, rattling, and knocking. See your auto collision center if you hear any of these noises, and keep reading for more on the four sounds of suspension problems.
When shifting from drive to reverse, a worn-out CV joint makes clunking sounds, which can be deafening when accelerating in turns. Cracks or breaks in the rubber or plastic boots around the CV joint may be heard. Under heavy acceleration, the car may also shudder or shake.
That clunking noise you hear from the front end of your car when driving over a bump can be telling of an issue with your car`s suspension. More specifically, the problem is with your control arms or suspension system struts. This damage can occur if you are off-road or roughly going over potholes.
A knocking or clunking sound from the front of the vehicle when turning at low speeds can be a symptom of bad tie rods. As they become loose, tie rods can rattle around at the joints and links, causing the new noises you`re hearing.
Knocking Sound
As the cv joint wears down, it becomes less able to absorb shock and vibrations. This can cause the knocking sound, as well as other problems like a vibration when you`re driving. If you`re experiencing any of these symptoms, it`s important to get your cv axle shaft replaced as soon as possible.
No. Change it as soon as possible. As part of your suspension system, tyres can be damaged by the road surface. As well as potentially destroying your wheel, driving on a flat tyre can make it difficult to stop quickly in an emergency and your car could pull sharply to one side or make steering tough.
Unusual noises – When shocks and struts are worn out you may hear a clunking or knocking sound. This sound is caused by metal-to-metal contact when the shock or strut bottoms out when hitting a bump.
The CV axle transmits power from the transmission to the wheels, while following the up and down motions of the suspension. When CV axles fail, they can cause a clicking noise when turning and/or a clunk upon acceleration/deceleration.
“Clicking” Noises When Turning
Though it`s sometimes described as a loud click and sometimes described as a pop, this noise is unmistakable once you hear it. It presents itself when you turn the vehicle, and it`s due to the loose joints of a worn CV axle.
Can a bad inner tie rod cause vibration when braking? Yes it can. A bad tie rod has excessive play within it and that can allow the wheel to oscillate back and forth. That causes vibration when you hit a bump or apply the brakes.
If you have rack and pinion-type inner and outer tie rods, you can often remove and replace them without upsetting the vehicle`s alignment specs. However, you will need to have an alignment done after replacing the outer tie rods. You should still try to keep the alignment specs in line as much as possible.
Another consequence of overtightening is that the castle nut on the ball joint or tie rod ends up going past the hole for the cotter pin (as shown in image C). When the nut goes past the hole, the cotter pin won`t fit. Many installers think they need washers to correct the issue.
Bad cv joints can cause the ticking sound. Bad front wheel bearing can cause wobble. Jack car up grab wheel on both sides and give it a good shake. From side to side, up and down and in and out.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
when coming to a stop, my truck has a binding/clunking noise in the rear end
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. While the components you have looked into are great inspections considering you tow often, lets start a little simpler and work our way down the list. Since this is happening while you are braking, you should start with a full brake inspection. Check the condition of your brake fluid, pads (or shoes if equipped), lines, master cylinder, booster, guide pins, and condition of the rotors (or drums). A visual inspection will only take you so far, and testing the rotors for example will need to be done with more precise measurements. Then look into your wheel bearings and the rest of the wheel assemblies. Your suspension and steering components also play a huge role in how the vehicle rides under load. For more help diagnosing and resolving the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
I’m having noises coming from the undercarriage when I drive
ANSWER : Hi there. The noise sounds like the transmission has a mechanical low/reverse clutch that is going out. This is determined by the noise going away when shifting or on its own and a ball joint will make a noise but not repetitive like a rotating device. Check the transmission oil level. For now, I recommend changing the transmission oil and filter to help with the situation. If you need further help with your vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from YourMechanic, to assist you with the noise that you are hearing.
Noise coming from the rear end.
ANSWER : Hi there. Sounds like the bearing on the differential or the wheel bearing on the rear wheels are worn. Raise up the vehicle and check the bearings by using a pry bar and prying up on the tire. See if the wheel moves or the axle and wheel moves. If you need further assistance with the loud noise on the rear of the vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
There is a clunking sound coming from the rear of the car – 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting YourMechanic. The struts or shocks could be causing a rough ride, but the looseness under the vehicle is a suspension part that is loose. Check all of the suspension for any broken bolts or damaged bushings.
The problem with the accelerator is a transmission issue that is loading up the vehicle’s engine. It sounds like the torque converter has a stator issue and is not multiplying torque. If you need assistance with the vehicle’s suspension or transmission, then seek out a professional, such as one from YourMechanic, to help you determine the source of the clunking noise and perform an inspection of the suspension system.
I was backing out of my driveway and heard a loud clunk coming from the rear end of my Ford f250 1979
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a bad universal joint (U-Joint) that may have too much play in it. When this happens, as the torque of the transmission transfers the power to the rear end, a loose U-joint will produce this same type of clunking noise or feeling. I would suggest checking your U-joints at the ends of he drive shaft to check them for excessive play.
It sounds like you may have a bad universal joint (U-Joint) that may have too much play in it. When this happens, as the torque of the transmission transfers the power to the rear end, a loose U-joint will produce this same type of clunking noise or feeling. I would suggest checking your U-joints at the ends of he drive shaft to check them for excessive play.
I have a 1998 ford ranger(AT) its shifting roughly, when i come to a stop, the truck wants to keep going, and as a result, the truck stalls out.
ANSWER : The torque converter clutch is not releasing as the transmission is shifting. Try pulling the fuse to the torque converter labeled as TCC and see if the symptoms change. If the vehicle stops acting up, then the torque converter clutch solenoid is active and not releasing. If the symptoms are the same, then the torque converter clutch is melted and needs replaced (torque converter replacement). If you need further assistance with your transmission shifting hash and stalling, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
(08 f150 4.6L) Truck is cutting off when making a complete stop at red light or stop sign.
ANSWER : Check the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and see if its dirty or not functioning correctly. I recommend removing the IAC and cleaning it out. If the valve was sticking before, the computer could have caught it and adjusted the idle to accommodate the issue. After having the battery cable off, the computer is in a learning cycle which means that if the IAC is not working properly, the computer will have to relearn and may learn to shut off due to a faulty valve, even though the computer says its good. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling out at stops, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Clunking noises in the rear wheel area
ANSWER : Hello Evander,
This is a common sign of a failing CV joint. A CV (Constant Velocity) joint is a shaft that connects the transmission to the wheels, essentially transferring the power from the drive train directly to the wheels. The CV joint is packed with a special grease and sealed tight with the rubber or plastic boot, that is held in place with two clamps. The most common problem with the CV joints is when the protective boot cracks or gets damaged. Once this happens, the grease comes out and moisture and dirt get in, causing the CV joint to wear faster and eventually fail due to lack of lubrication and corrosion. When the CV joint becomes damaged or worn, you may hear a clicking or popping sound coming from this area. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your CV joints.
This is a common sign of a failing CV joint. A CV (Constant Velocity) joint is a shaft that connects the transmission to the wheels, essentially transferring the power from the drive train directly to the wheels. The CV joint is packed with a special grease and sealed tight with the rubber or plastic boot, that is held in place with two clamps. The most common problem with the CV joints is when the protective boot cracks or gets damaged. Once this happens, the grease comes out and moisture and dirt get in, causing the CV joint to wear faster and eventually fail due to lack of lubrication and corrosion. When the CV joint becomes damaged or worn, you may hear a clicking or popping sound coming from this area. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your CV joints.
