Van won’t start when turning key

Van won't start when turning key, only 1 single click every time. Changed starter motor- bought brand new. Battery also seems fine, any suggestions as to what might be the problem?
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
If you are hearing a click when you turn the key then you may have a defective started relay in the main junction box in the engine compartment. Having a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come and testing the relay to make sure the ignition and clutch switches are working okay will be needed before replacing start relay.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
Bad or dead battery

The most common reason cars don`t start is a dead or faulty battery. Even though most cars run on gasoline, they all require electrical power to function. The starter that cranks your engine to start requires an electrical signal to fire.

If your car won`t start, the likely culprit is your electrical system—namely, the battery, alternator or starter. Your car battery provides your vehicle with the power it needs to start.
Blown fuse – Sometimes the simplest explanation is the best one. A blown fuse in the starter circuit could be the cause of a no-start problem. Broken or corroded wiring – Damaged or dirty wires to the battery or to the starter solenoid (or wires that are loose) can prevent sufficient power from reaching the starter.
The ignition relay is one of the most important electronic relays found on modern vehicles. It is usually located in the fuse and relay panel beneath the hood, and is responsible for providing power to the vehicle`s ignition system, and some of the fuel system`s components.
Bad Sensors

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.

If it takes longer than usual or your engine cranks slowly or hesitates, then this could be a sign that there is an electrical fault. A car`s engine needs electrical power to begin at the ignition switch. The battery provides this power, and if it`s failing or low on charge, then the engine will struggle to start.
Connected to the battery is the alternator, which works to generate power for your vehicle`s electrical components. When you have a brand-new battery but still can`t start the car, the alternator might be the issue. Cold and damp climates may increase wear on an alternator, causing it to fail.
The starter solenoid is an electromagnetic switch that engages the starter motor. How can I tell if my starter solenoid is bad? If you`re having trouble cranking the engine over but the battery is charged, or if your starter won`t disengage after starting the engine, it`s likely a starter solenoid issue.
Turning your key in the ignition triggers the starting system by sending power from the battery to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid then activates the starter motor, which spins the engine a few times to turn it on.
Starting relay position

The fuse box (also called the power box), the instrument panel under the fuse panel, or the right fender are all possible locations. In most cars, it will be under the hood, in a large box with a black lid. This is where car fuses and relays are installed. It is also called a fuse box.

If not in the wiring, there could be an issue with the fuse box. This is unlikely if you are not having issues with other circuits. The starter can also cause this to blow. If the starter is failing, especially the starter solenoid, a power surge may be being sent to the fuse and blowing it.
The battery can be fully charged but still not be able to start the vehicle if it is failing or has a dead cell. Other likely issues are the fuel pump, ignition switch, battery cables, starter, or a clogged fuel filter.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter. It can be hard to determine if you`re dealing with a battery or an alternator problem.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.

Car was sometimes not starting, not even cranking when i turned the key then after a few times itd start. Now it ont start at all
ANSWER : Hi there:

Without being there to inspect your vehicle, or having information about what type of car, truck or SUV you own, it’s very hard for us to give you some advice. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection; so they can come to your location and determine why your vehicle is having these issues.

steering wheel won’t unlock my key turns only to turn lights on but that’s it can’t unlock steering wheel to start the car what to
ANSWER : The steering lock may not be unlocking either due to a faulty ignition lock housing or more commonly as the cars age a faulty spring at the steering wheel on the under side of the column. If the ignition lock housing is the issue the housing can be replaced. It s a bit tricky as the mounting bolt has break off heads and generally need to be driven out with a punch. If the lock is not disengaging because of a faulty spring on the ignition lock many owners have had the spring removed by having it drilled out of the housing. However, removing the spring may permanently disable the steering lock. The last option would be to replace the steering column. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic who can recommend the proper repair for your situation.

Every 3-4 months, my car won’t start. It does turn over though.
ANSWER : If your battery is weak or has bad connections to the battery, then you may have problems starting the vehicle intermittently. This is due to low voltage to the starter which is taking all the power, while the electronic ignition and the electric fuel pump get cut short. This will cause the vehicle not to start.

You may think the vehicle is turning over okay, but the starter is taking in all of the power just to turn over the motor. You should get the battery and it’s cables checked, as well as the charging system, for any problems by a qualified mechanic so they can diagnose the problem and do any repairs needed to prevent this problem in the future.

Engine turned off but inside of car still on, now engine won’t turn back on.
ANSWER : Hi there. The symptoms you’re describing with your boyfriend’s 2002 Grand Cherokee appear to be related to a broken or worn out ignition switch or relay. The ignition switch on the inside of the steering column is attached to multiple electronic connections that send signals to a relay box; which in turn, sends the signal to the individual components. The issue could be related to the ignition switch, the relay, or any of the components in between. If you want to have the fault pinpointed in person, I would have this starting issue inspected by a trained professional to ensure that the correct repair is made.

Turn key won’t start. When I keep turning the key it will start. Had the starter checked and it was good.
ANSWER : Hi there. It is possible, the ignition switch is at fault for the no crank situation. It could also be the result of, a faulty clutch inhibitor switch manual transmission, a faulty neutral safety switch automatic transmission, a faulty starter relay, a poor electrical connection in the start circuit. Proper diagnoses should be performed for an issue like this to eliminate the possibilities. I recommend having your vehicle’s no crank situation be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

So I have a hyundai sonata se push to start. My car won’t turn on, power is working, I push tof start but it won’t crank. I don’t
ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like you have a failed starter. However, without proper testing there is no way to be 100% sure. I suggest having the battery tested first with a digital battery tester that provides current voltage, cold cranking amps, and state of health. Also inspect for corrosion on the terminals and cables as this will cause excessive resistance and not allow proper voltage/amps to the starter. Other possible failures could be in the wiring harness, relay, fuses, or communication network. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car does not start inspection.

Car won’t start key turns and lights dim when it cranks. I just don’t hear a buzzing sound from the fuel pump when turn key to on
ANSWER : Code U1100 signifies a communications error which is either a module fault or a deficiency in the wiring harness between communicating modules. There’s a possibility that a dying battery is a cause of such a code (and a cause of your no start condition, as well) and so the very first thing to do is be sure you have a fully, 100% charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. To temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions.

If the battery tests good after an actual load test, attempt to start the car. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power, or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, IF the starter motor is getting power but the starter does not work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, if the starter motor is NOT getting power, then the circuit is diagnosed and that diagnostic, in your circumstance, may have a tie-in to the U1100 code. That remains to be seen, of course.

If the above protocol does not identify the issue for you, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you promptly. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.