trouble starting the vehicle

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.

ANSWER : As you may know, this issue is commonly related to the evaporative emissions (EVAP) system which is comprised of a few components, one of which you have already addressed, the purge valve. In some cases, when you have an air leak in the EVAP system, then the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor will not be able to determine the air density, and the mass airflow (MAF) sensor will not be able to correctly determine the volume of air entering the engine. This will lead to an over-fueling or under-fueling situation depending on the size of the air leak and the engine’s operating speeds and load. This could eventually lead to destroying the catalytic converter as well. I would recommend having an expert technician, such as one from YourMechanic, take a look at your car to diagnose your starting and stalling problems.

ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : It sounds like there is some type of drain on the battery. When there is low voltage in a battery, it can cause several symptoms. The electrical systems can act very strangely when they don’t have the correct voltage being supplied. When a battery won’t hold a charge, it can be caused by a wiring issue, a bad battery, or some type of parasitic draw that can slowly pull voltage from the battery. Some electrical diagnosis done by a professional, such as one from YourMechanic, will be necessary to pinpoint the cause.

ANSWER : Hey there thanks for writing in about your 1998 Honda Accord. This could be a few things. A faulty ignition switch, a failing crank sensor, or possibly other faulty sensors could be the cause. To have this taken care of, consider having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your car’s location to diagnose and repair the hard start issue.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. With the new spark plugs in place, we need to make sure that the distributor and ignition cable is sending those two spark plugs a strong signal. If there is no or low power getting to the plugs, those two cylinders will not fire. You can test this with a spark tester, and it is relatively easy. You then have to determine what part of the ignition system is causing those to plugs to fail. If the spark system checks out, then you want to turn your attention to the throttle and air intake sensors. Only further testing will tell. For more help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : It sounds like your starting issues may be linked to a problem with air metering or fuel delivery. A clogged or malfunctioning idle air control valve may show some of the same symptoms you are describing. The idle air control valve can be stuck in a cold start position which may work well if the car has been sitting a few hours, but as the engine warms up there must be a regulation in airflow. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at your hard start situation and offer a more personal diagnosis.