Transmission line pressure too high for too long 2006 dodge magnum

ANSWER : It sounds like you downloaded Code P1745 which refers to line pressure being out of range (high) for too long. The line pressure solenoid could be faulty and/or the solenoid harness is open, shorted, or has high resistance (poor electrical connections). That possibility should be investigated and ruled in or out first. Apart from that, what you are describing is due to a control, sensor or valve body issue and thus does not require transmission removal or rebuilding. If you want to have the problem diagnosed and repaired, request that a transmission specialist from YourMechanic perform a failure to shift – limp mode diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Yes. Never buy a Dodge Caravan. They have one of the worst transmissions out there. Those things are really bad.

Now, if the line pressure is too high, that generally means that somewhere in the system there is a restriction. Because the pump is just pumping about the same, and you notice the pressure gets too high, then the pressure is being pumped and at some point is being restricted causing it to back it up and increase the pressure. I would say that you may want to try to have the transmission flushed out, and see if you can go. Let’s say that it is still working okay, I’d sell that van and get something else. They have too many problems, especially with those Caravans.

ANSWER : Hi there. As the temperature increases inside the transmission, the fluid will expand; which is why the fluid level on the dipstick is higher when you check it. The goal is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on amounts of fluid; however, with less than 50,000 miles you should not be experiencing transmission slipping issues. It is possible that you might have a problem with a shift sensor, or an obstruction somewhere inside the hydraulic lines. Perhaps flushing the transmission fluid will resolve this issue, so you might want to start there. If the problem continues, please contact a professional mobile mechanic to complete a transmission inspection.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Estimated times for your repair range from 1-2 hours. Most technicians and shops charge a minimum hourly charge for labor, on top of the cost for parts and fluids. Your shop should keep track of the time it took and pro-rate those charges to the exact time it took them. For a quote from us, or to schedule an appointment, contact our service department.

ANSWER : Hello. In most cases a pressure switch can cause pressure to build up if it malfunctions, however that depends on the type of pressure switch and what system it is for. If you are referring to the cooling system then it may be possible that there is an issue with the cap that is not releasing properly, or possibly an obstruction in the cooling system, such as a thermostat that is stuck closed. It may also be possible that overheating is what caused the pressure to blow the line, however a proper diagnosis would be required to determine if that might be the case. As it appears that you could possibly be experiencing cooling system issues, if the problem persists I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, visit your location to determine what may be causing the issue.

ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.

ANSWER : Hi There,
This may be an issue related to the communication of the PCM and the TCM (Transmission control module). As you may know, the TCM relies on the PCM to transmit information related to RPM’s, which the TCM then uses to determine when to direct the transmission to shift. The transmission control module has various sensors such as vehicle speed sensors, wheel speed sensors, throttle position sensors, turbine speed sensor, and transmission fluid temperature sensors that all direct information to it in order for it to perform it’s function. Other functions controlled by the TCM are components such as a kick down switch, traction control system, and cruise control module. Any of these may also affect the way the transmission control module performs and controls the transmission and the shifting of your vehicle. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your location to properly diagnose your transmission problem.

ANSWER : Your best bet would be to have a professional perform the service for you since you are having so much trouble. These are the brake lines so you really want them done right the first time and a warranty in case something goes wrong and your pedal gets soft. The old fitting will need to be cut from the old line and placed on the new line and the new line flared as the vehicle is set up which may require that expensive tool. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can help you avoid a tow fee and come out to take a closer look at the brake system damage to offer a more personal estimate on the repairs.