The car starts then dies.

The car starts then dies there is a squeaky noise under the hood as well service engine light is on

My car has 170000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello there. In most cases, when there is a situation like yours when the car starts then dies, it’s due to a fuel or ignition system failure. In some instances it is due to components like fuel injectors, Mass Airflow Sensors or the throttle body being dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build-up. It’s also possible that the spark plugs, plug wires or other ignition system component is causing this problem. The best way to diagnose this issue is to have a professional mechanic come to your location and complete a car starts then dies inspection.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If just clicks when trying to start most likely the starter is bad. You can try tapping on the starter with a hammer while trying to start vehicle at the same time and if it starts replace starter. If it does not start by doing this still can be the starter if it is the starter solenoid.
Usually a clicking says your battery is not providing sufficient power to start the car. This could be a weak battery or, possibly, corroded connections at the battery or starter.
The most common reasons a Cadillac CTS won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
It might be a battery or alternator problem.

A rapid clicking noise when trying to start your car could mean there`s something wrong within the electrical system. Perhaps your battery`s dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn`t working correctly.

Tires are inflated or shaped irregularly: If your four tires are not very similar in size, shape, and inflation, your wheels may make bizarre noises while you`re driving. Make sure that your tires are always the correct specs and inflated to the right pressure.
Starter motor issues can manifest as a single, loud click emanating from the starter relay or starter solenoid. Usually, this points to a faulty relay or solenoid, or a bad or jammed starter motor. Solution: Rock your car back and forth or tap the starter motor with a hammer and try starting the engine again.
Lack Of Fuel

The most common and obvious reason your car may start then die is the fuel shortage in your engine. This happens because there`s not enough fuel in the fuel rail, and there`s no fuel pressure to keep the engine alive.

The the ECM (Engine Control Module) became the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). It is located under the air filter box for cooling purposes.
If your starter relay has gone bad, the electrical signal will never make it from the battery to the starter motor. As a result, your engine won`t turn over – no matter how many times you turn the key. A faulty relay often produces an audible clicking sound when you turn your car.
About the Cadillac Deville Ignition Key Recall

GM has announced it is recalling 3.16 million vehicles due to a faulty ignition key design that can cause ignition switches to unintentionally move out of the “run” position. One of the vehicle models affected by that recall is the 2000-2005 Cadillac Deville.

The noise is normal, and is created by engine pulses being amplified through the light-off converters. Do not replace the converters unless loose internal components are found.
Misaligned Valves

But lack of maintenance and other issues can cause misalignment, which makes it difficult for the valves to open and shut, resulting in an engine clicking sound. Alternatively, faulty CV joints can also cause engine ticks under the valve cover.

If you don`t hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn`t crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner`s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.
One possibility is the solenoid. A single “click” sound comes from the engine compartment or from under the car. This could mean that the solenoid is trying to engage but that the internal components are stuck and unable to work properly. Repeated “clicking” sounds usually indicate a dead battery.
Faulty Battery

A classic reason why your car starts for a second then dies is battery depletion. The car needs electricity from the battery to start. However, if your car starts then dies immediately, then the fault could be a lack of charging or damaged battery.

There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.
A bad ECM may lead to a vehicle that won`t or is difficult to start. If the ECM fails completely, it will leave the vehicle without engine management control, and will not start or run as a result. The engine may still crank, but it will not be able to start without the vital inputs from the computer.
While it is very unlikely for a running engine to die or stall due to the bad starter motor. However it still possible. It must be a series of events before that can happen. The bad shorted starter motor will cause a car battery to discharge.
CAUSES OF FAULTY STARTERS: CAUSE OF FAILURE

Electrical connections faulty. Solenoid switch (engaging relay) stiff or faulty. Electric motor damaged electrically. Single-pinion gear, starter pinion or freewheel damaged.

Several things can cause a starter relay to fail, including corroded contacts, a faulty circuit, contacts that weld together, or just a relay that`s too old.
Make sure your alternator`s positive and negative terminals are clean. Put the multimeter`s black cable to the negative terminal and the red cable to the positive terminal. Look for an ideal alternator reading of around 12.6. Start the car, and look for a reading of between 14.2 and 14.7.
Step 5: Test the Alternator With the Engine Off

First, test it with the engine turned off. Turn the engine off. Turn on your voltage meter and set it to DC volts. Connect the positive lead to the positive terminal (+) on the battery, then connect the negative lead to the negative terminal (-) on the battery.

Disconnecting your battery and draining the power to cause an ECU reset is one of the most common fixes for a check engine light that won`t go away on its own. Doing so is equivalent to a hard reboot on a desktop computer, which is a standard way to eliminate many common problems.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

My truck died while driving. Now will start, but dies when I push brake. If I start in neutral, I can put in drive and go but dies – 2003 Ford F250
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

Car started shaking. Cleaned carb and air filter. Now it starts, runs, dies, or starts and dies.
ANSWER : Hello. The stalling issues you are having may by caused by a variety of issues. Typically these symptoms can be blamed on fuel, spark, or air. Fuel and spark being the most common systems to fail. Starting with the air filter and cleaning the carburetor were good steps to start. You need to take a better look at the spark system. The spark wires can be tested to make sure the plugs are receiving the voltage that they need to be. You can also test the fuel system by spraying some starter fluid into the air intake. If this helps the engine start and run better than before, then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. This may include the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors, or a clogged fuel line. The shaking is due to the improper combustion happening in the engine. This will be corrected when the engine is running properly. More testing is the only way to know definitively what the issue is.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

Cranks over start than dies
ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

Map sensor car won’t start up good ?
ANSWER : Your MAP sensor is an important input for your computer. It helps determine the load on the engine to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. It sometimes takes a few seconds for the vehicle to realize that the sensor is not producing a good signal.

At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

car hesitates when trying to start the car ,but when started then i shut car off and start again it will start right up
ANSWER : Hi there:

Sometimes when you have problems starting an engine initially it is caused by a restriction in fuel flow; caused either by clogged fuel injectors or the throttle body that needs to be cleaned. Once the fuel starts to flow and engine warms up, it’s much easier to start. However, it could also be an air filter, EGR valve or other components that causes this issue as well, which is why it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection so they can pinpoint the source of this issue.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

My car stutter starts, but only after driving it for a few minutes.
ANSWER : Hey there. This may also be caused by what is called the fuel pressure regulator. This is a unit that helps to maintain the fuel pressure at the proper level. When this is not working properly, the fuel pump may be pumping properly, but the fuel may not arrive at the fuel injectors at the proper psi. When this happens, this can cause a lean fuel condition which may cause the car to hesitate, misfire, or stall. If you would like to have an expert pinpoint the issue, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the hard start problem and confirm which repairs are needed.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.

My car will be starting perfect and when the gas tank gets lower it will start having problems .
ANSWER : Based on the information you gave, it sounds like a possible fuel starvation issue, caused by a partially blocked, in-tank fuel filter or a crack in the fuel pump housing. The remedy would be to replace the fuel pump assembly and filter. The overheating may be caused by several things, including a stuck thermostat, faulty water pump, or even a cracked head gasket. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, inspect the relevant systems to pinpoint the cause of your vehicle’s hard starting issue and overheating problem.

Read Full Q/A … : The car starts then dies.