Still having a squeak

ANSWER : Hi there. The leading cause of brakes squealing after replacing the pads is excessive brake dust trapped between the caliper and the rotor. Typically when brake jobs are completed, a professional mechanic will spray brake cleaner liberally on the calipers and rotor to remove any brake dust that has embedded in between the two components. If this is not completed, the extra brake dust will be trapped between the fresh pad and the rotor. When heated, it can create an annoying squeaking noise. The best way to resolve this issue is to remove the tires, place a drip pan under the hub and spray brake cleaner along the caliper and the rotor. Let it dry for a few minutes then reinstall the tire, torque it down correctly and test the brakes. If this does not resolve your problem you might want to have one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a brake system inspection.

ANSWER : Suspension bushings are designed to do a few things. They help mount and isolate components like control arms, sway bars, and engine/suspension cradles. They serve a double function to isolate the body and interior from road noises. Having suspension components mounted without bushings would transmit every little ripple, pebble, and sound, to the interior of the car and to your ears. Typically, these bushings are made of rubber while some performance vehicles may have polyurethane bushings. Polyurethane is typically reserved for performance vehicles and when modifying vehicles because it is less compliant. As the rubber bushings age, the rubber gets dry and hard. The first sign that they may be due for replacement is the squeaking noise you hear. The rubber will start to fall apart and eventually lead to poor handling and maybe even some clunking sounds. Control arm bushings and sway bar bushings are the most common causes of the squeaking sound over bumps. Another source is ball joints. As the grease within the ball joints wears away over time, the metal parts internal to the ball joint can rub against each other and create a similar squeaking or even creaking. Have a certified technician inspect the vehicle to find the exact source of the noise over bumps.

ANSWER : With the mileage you listed and the brakes having been replaced last month, I can guess that the brakes were replaced due to wear. They were probably worn enough to recommend replacement. As for the squeaking, a number of factors can cause it. Brake squeal doesn’t always indicate there is a serious problem with the brakes. It’s more of a nuisance. To lessen the chance of squealing, care should be taken when replacing the pads. All mating surfaces should be cleaned and a high temperature brake lube applied wherever the pads make contact to mounting surfaces. Also, if not supplied with the pads, adding shims may help. Brake friction material varies from vehicle to vehicle. Some friction compounds are more prone to squealing than others If none of this helps, you may want to consider trying a different brand of brake pad.

ANSWER : Hello there. This is a common fault with the Suzuki Vitara. The most likely causes for the squeaking noise would be the drive belt, axle, tensioner, or idler pulley. Any of these can increase in noise along with the engine speed. If you need further help, I would have a qualified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, inspect the noise in person in order to have it corrected.

ANSWER : Squealing when turning the wheel can be caused by a few things. A worn belt can be the source, as can a failed belt tensioner not keeping the belt tight enough. Also, a failing water pump, alternator, or power steering pump bearing may be failing. The added load of turning the wheel can add load to a bearing and cause noise. The power steering pump itself may be the cause as well.

Have a certified technician look into the squealing when turning to isolate the exact cause.

ANSWER : You should have the belt and tensioner checked to see if the belt is worn or stretched beyond its limit causing the tensioner to not keep it tight and allowing it to slip when damp or wet. Remove the belt and feel for any binding pulley on the engine and tensioner. Replace belt and tensioner of no other problems are found.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. Pads and rotors can become "glazed" if overheated. If this happens, the bonding material in the brake pads can rise up out of the pads and transfer to the rotors, causing a bluish discoloration to the rotors and cause a squeak. Removing the pads, sanding the surface of them and the rotors may help. If not, a light resurfacing of the rotors and using some brake lube on the backs of the pads should help. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect your brake system for you, and make or suggest any repairs or cleaning as needed.

ANSWER : Hello. Most of the indicators that the oil needs to be changed are not visible to the naked eye. Simply getting oil hot while driving down the highway will darken it. The road grit and engine wear "debris" is often measured in microns (1 millionth of a meter), microscope territory. The simplest guide for oil and filter changes is 3-5,000 miles for highway use. Much more often for off-road or extreme duty situations (heavily loaded trucks, racing applications, stop-and-go driving only). Oils also accumulate acids over repeated cold-hot-cold-hot cycles, which attack metal surfaces including bearing, cylinder walls, etc. Follow your manufacturers guidance for oil/filter service.