to stop.
Sometimes when I get to an intersection my car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas a little. Also, when I try to go up hills it will try to stop.
My dad changed the spark wires, spark plugs but not fuel filter yet and we thought we had it fixed but it's still wanting to shut down when u stop at a light or intersection and when u try to give it gas going up a hill it will try to stop and sometimes it does.
My car has 243400 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. Check the air idle control valve (IAC) and see if its plugged in or if the vacuum line is cracked. If the IAC is working, check for any additional vacuum leaks that the engine could have. If there is no vacuum leaks, then check the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and see if its dirty or unplugged. All of these items can cause the engine to stall out in the intersections and on any hill climb. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
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When a MAF sensor malfunctions, it can do so in a very subtle way. It can create an erratic or incorrect signal on initial take-off, which can cause an elongated shift. It can deliver an incorrect signal at higher engine speed, which can create shudder that could be mistaken for torque-converter-clutch (TCC) problems.
Because the MAF measures the air that flows into the engine, it can actually cause the ECM to make changes to the air and fuel mixture that will cause your engine to stall if it`s sending incorrect air readings. Your engine might be fuel-starved or flooded.
Without a proper signal from the mass air flow sensor, the powertrain control module (PCM), which manages the engine, transmission, and other systems in your car, won`t know how much fuel the engine needs. This can either cause the engine to run too lean (too little fuel) or too rich (too much fuel).
The MAF sensor regulates the air-fuel mixture in the engine and might become dirty. The dirt on the sensor sends wrong values to the control unit, and the limp mode is activated.
The MAF sensor malfunctioning can also cause your car to throw a check engine light (CEL). Furthermore, it can cause different check engine codes such as the O2 sensor, “low air volume”, or something else.
A bad MAF sensor can cause too much fuel to be left in the combustion chamber, creating untimed detonations. You`ll experience this as poor drivability such as hesitations or sudden jerking motions, particularly during acceleration.
Do you have to reset a mass air flow sensor? Yes, disconnecting the battery for around 10 to 15 minutes is an important step to take after replacing the MAF sensor to ensure that the sensor resets. This way the computer will forget the parameters it had previously learned and adjust to the new settings.
Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
The engine is very hard to start or turn over. The engine stalls shortly after starting. The engine hesitates or drags while under load or idle. Hesitation and jerking during acceleration.
Reset the MAF sensor by idling your engine without the sensor installed for at least 10 seconds. You can also reset the MAF sensor by removing the negative battery terminal and waiting 10 minutes. You may be able to drive without the MAF sensor, but it`s bad for your engine to drive without the sensor for too long.
MAF sensors can become damaged, but more often they just get too dirty to do their job well. In this case, they can be cleaned but if it is a mechanical or electrical failure, they must be replaced.
Sluggish Acceleration
If the mass airflow sensor readings are wrong, the engine control module may put too much air in the combustion chamber and not enough fuel. This will cause your acceleration to be sluggish when you press down on the accelerator.
A dirty MAF sensor can also cause the engine control module to put too much fuel in the combustion chamber. When this happens, you may end up with black exhaust smoke flowing out of the tailpipe. This is because the engine is igniting the excess fuel in the chamber and burning it.
To identify the source of any MAF sensor faults, consider the following steps: Conduct an electronic test of the MAF sensor and read any fault codes using a diagnostic tool. Check the connector for a correct fit and good contact. Check the MAF sensor and measuring elements for damage.
Even a dirty MAF sensor can cause a lean code and/or misfire to occur. The engine may be stalling because it isn`t getting enough throttle opening.
Replacing or repairing your mass air flow sensor should be very easy. You just need to take off a few plastic pieces by unscrewing a few bolts and replace the sensor. If you have no confidence in replacing it by yourself, go to your mechanic and replace it, it shouldn`t be a labor-intensive job.
Denatured alcohol should be avoided for this reason. Mass airflow sensors must be delicately wiped with clean high-grade tissue to reduce scratches, and one should always avoid scrubbing as this may break parts or otherwise cause damage.
What`s the difference between a MAP and a MAF sensor? A MAF sensor measures how much air is aspired by the engine. A MAP sensor, on the other hand, provides a measurement of the air pressure in the intake manifold. The ECU uses this information to calculate the amount of air that needs to be aspired.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor measures vehicle speed. When it fails the transmission can stop shifting or shift late and harsh. A bad VSS may also inhibit overdrive and the converter clutch.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor measures vehicle speed. When it fails the transmission can stop shifting or shift late and harsh. A bad VSS may also inhibit overdrive and the converter clutch.
A bad MAF sensor can cause too much fuel to be left in the combustion chamber, creating untimed detonations. You`ll experience this as poor drivability such as hesitations or sudden jerking motions, particularly during acceleration.
A bad MAF sensor can cause your vehicle to experience poor drivability issues such as engine stalling, jerking or hesitation during acceleration.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Sometimes when I get to an intersection my car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas a little. Also, when I try to go up hills it will try to stop.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the air idle control valve (IAC) and see if its plugged in or if the vacuum line is cracked. If the IAC is working, check for any additional vacuum leaks that the engine could have. If there is no vacuum leaks, then check the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and see if its dirty or unplugged. All of these items can cause the engine to stall out in the intersections and on any hill climb. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
When I crank my car it won’t keep running unless I keep my foot on the gas. As soon as I release the gas pedal my car stops running
ANSWER : The first thing you need to check for in a case like yours is air leaks. Check all the rubber parts and hoses under the hood for good condition and connection. The amount of fuel delivered to your engine is determined by the air that flows in and any air that gets in through a leak without being measured means less fuel being injected. There are of course a number of other possible causes; a failed Mass Air Flow Sensor for example, but they will require special skills and equipment to be examined. You can have this conveniently checked out by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your car and let you know exactly what it will take to solve your problem.
Stalling when gas pedal pressed down quickly or too fast also happening when stopping at lights and sometimes during idle.
ANSWER : Hey there. It sounds like you may have a mass air sensor problem or an intake leak between the throttle body and mass air sensor. This is a perfect example of why you should have a mechanic conduct a pre-purchase inspection. The inspection would have identified the vehicle has problems before you decided to purchase it. My best recommendation now would be to have a local expert, like one from YourMechanic, come to your car’s location to diagnose the stalling issue and have this corrected properly.
My car stops when engine gets warm and while I am driving I stop on red light and car suddenly turn off and I have to hit starter
ANSWER : Hello, from what you’ve described it sounds like you are having several different issues. The starter should have nothing to do with it stalling, but it will have something to do with the car restarting if it doesn’t turn the engine well. The stalling can be from the distributor or possibly a computer sensor.
The scenario where you hit a car from behind may be from another problem, alongside with the idling of the engine. Without knowing the model and engine size of your car I can only say so much. I would suggest having a mechanic do a thorough check of the entire car to check the engine, brakes, and computer systems to see if the problems can be identified and repaired, or at the very least quoted.
Stop at stop sign, give it the gas, it want go, let up, push down agin it goes,the engine does not die.!!!!
ANSWER : What you are describing sounds like a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer and will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. This is also an important function when starting the motor as it allows the motor to run and idle on it’s own once the motor fires. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed while adjusting the air/fuel ratio constantly to allow this to happen smoothly. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about 800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.
My car is a 1974 Ford Bronco. I was driving doing about 35 when my car suddenly sputtered and died. Wont idle without foot on gas
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle may be having one of several issues. Due to the lack of self diagnostic programming on the vehicle, it is going to be a process of elimination. You are going to want to start with the simplest factors first, which are fuel, air, and spark. Fuel pressure should be tested first, followed by testing for spark, and then looking into the air intake. If fuel pressure is an issue, then you want to start with the pump, and work your way up to the carburetor. If no issues were found, make sure the exhaust is clear, and the throttle cable is tight and responsive. You may have to look deeper into the engine’s electronics from there. For more help with diagnostics and repairs, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Car keeps cranking over when not holding key, but still wont start
ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.
