sometimes have trouble starting the car and backfire and when I’m driving
Okay so sometimes when I start my car I have trouble starting it and when I'm driving I hear backfires loud ones not all the time just sometimes I replace the distributor cap and distributor rotor and it got better for a few days but then it started backfiring again and I'm wondering if this could be the spark plugs or the ignition ignition coil I also sometimes have surging problems when I'm parked or at a stop light in idle
My car has 98000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. From the description you have provided, your vehicle’s backfiring and surge should be properly diagnosed. It could be, the distributor itself is at fault. The distributor shaft and/or distributor bushings may be worn. Replacing the distributor cap and distributor rotor, apparently was a short term fix. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, try moving the distributor shaft (side to side) in different directions. There should slight or no movement, side to side. Any appreciable movement, requires distributor replacement. A worn distributor could, cause a surging idle as ignition timing is varying. This could be confirmed by, using a timing light, seeing variation in the timing mark(s). I recommend having your vehicle’s engine backfiring and surges be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician from YourMechanic.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The most common reasons a Honda Accord won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
Dead batteries, alternator problems, or failed starters are why Honda Accords won`t start. There have been documented complaints about issues such as these with the Accord`s starter, despite no formal recalls being issued: Defects related to push-button starting. The engine needs to be started multiple times.
When your engine cranks but won`t start or run, it could mean your engine is having trouble producing a spark, getting fuel, or creating compression. The most common causes are problems in the ignition (for example, a bad ignition coil) or fuel system (for example, a clogged fuel filter).
A difficult start could be due to a number of things, from a dying battery to a faulty starter. But if your vehicle has a hard time starting after sitting for just a few hours, it can cause an extra layer of confusion. When this happens, one of the most common causes is low fuel pressure.
The most common reason cars don`t start is a dead or faulty battery. Even though most cars run on gasoline, they all require electrical power to function. The starter that cranks your engine to start requires an electrical signal to fire. If something`s wrong with your battery, your car engine won`t turn over.
Starter motors should make noise when you turn your ignition key fully to activate your car. If you turn the key and do not hear anything, there`s a chance that there`s something wrong with the vehicle`s ignition switch.
When an engine cranks for a long time before it starts, either spark or fuel is missing or weak and each has its own reasons. Most of the time, the air / fuel mixture has been disturbed and there is too much air or not enough fuel.
With a cranking system, symptoms are divided into one of three possible troubleshooting categories: Click — No-Crank (solenoid clicks but starter doesn`t crank) No-Click — No-Crank (solenoid doesn`t click/starter doesn`t crank) Slow Crank (starter cranks, but engine RPM slow to start vehicle)
Hard start symptoms and starter failure may NOT be caused by the starter, but could actually be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these symptoms, the crankshaft sensor may be at fault.
Typically when your electrical accessories are working well, but it takes a few cranks for the engine to start, the issue is with the fuel or ignition system. In most cases, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, throttle body or mass air flow sensor will be the root source of this problem.
CAUSES OF FAULTY STARTERS: CAUSE OF FAILURE
Electrical connections faulty. Solenoid switch (engaging relay) stiff or faulty. Electric motor damaged electrically. Single-pinion gear, starter pinion or freewheel damaged.
1 Start motor engages but the engine doesn`t turn
The simplest cause of this sort of fault is a loose or corroded electrical connection. If there is a fault with the internal windings of the starter motor, bad brushes, or other electrical faults, the starter motor may lack the torque to crank the engine.
It might be a battery or alternator problem.
If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn`t have enough juice to stay powered. So instead, it rapidly turns on and off and produces a clicking noise!
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.
Fuel Pressure & Fuel Pump
When the fuel pump starts to go bad, that pressure will start to go away when the engine isn`t running. This is one of the most common reasons that your car won`t start after it`s sat for many hours.
When an engine cranks for a long time before it starts, either spark or fuel is missing or weak and each has its own reasons. Most of the time, the air / fuel mixture has been disturbed and there is too much air or not enough fuel.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
sometimes have trouble starting the car and backfire and when I’m driving
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, your vehicle’s backfiring and surge should be properly diagnosed. It could be, the distributor itself is at fault. The distributor shaft and/or distributor bushings may be worn. Replacing the distributor cap and distributor rotor, apparently was a short term fix. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, try moving the distributor shaft (side to side) in different directions. There should slight or no movement, side to side. Any appreciable movement, requires distributor replacement. A worn distributor could, cause a surging idle as ignition timing is varying. This could be confirmed by, using a timing light, seeing variation in the timing mark(s). I recommend having your vehicle’s engine backfiring and surges be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician from YourMechanic.
When I’m driving, sometimes the car over revs and jerks when I shift gears after the cars been on for a while
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car stutter starts, but only after driving it for a few minutes.
ANSWER : Hey there. This may also be caused by what is called the fuel pressure regulator. This is a unit that helps to maintain the fuel pressure at the proper level. When this is not working properly, the fuel pump may be pumping properly, but the fuel may not arrive at the fuel injectors at the proper psi. When this happens, this can cause a lean fuel condition which may cause the car to hesitate, misfire, or stall. If you would like to have an expert pinpoint the issue, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the hard start problem and confirm which repairs are needed.
Map sensor car won’t start up good ?
ANSWER : Your MAP sensor is an important input for your computer. It helps determine the load on the engine to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. It sometimes takes a few seconds for the vehicle to realize that the sensor is not producing a good signal.
At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.
When I drive it and come to a stop with my foot on the brake my car revs up and sometimes shuts off and I have to start up again 2006 Chevrolet Impala
ANSWER : Hi – first task is to read any problem codes, whether the Check Engine light is on or not. Most auto parts stores will do this for you for free on a "time-available" basis. Any codes extracted are useful for diagnostic purposes. Based on your symptoms, the throttle position sensor is a leading failure possibility. A malfunctioning idle air controller could also cause the unpredictable idling issues, but not a shut-off while driving. I recommend a car stalling inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
My car stutters after driving it for a few minutes – 2002 Toyota
ANSWER : This may also be caused by what is called the fuel pressure regulator. This is a unit that helps to maintain the fuel pressure at the proper level. When this is not working properly, the fuel pump may be pumping properly, but the fuel may not arrive at the fuel injectors at the proper psi. When this happens, this can cause a lean fuel condition which may cause the car to hesitate, misfire or stall. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your fuel pressure.
My car won’t start, neither does my auto. Start. Sometime it might start if I jump it sometimes it won’t.
ANSWER : Hi there. There are a number of issues that will make a car hard to start. Everything from the electrical system to the fuel system to the actual starter itself can be the problem. Finding the root cause of a hard starting engine can take some investigation. Ignoring a hard starting issue can further damage the vehicle, which will often result in a more expensive repair. You might want to have a mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection so they can pinpoint the source of the issues you’re having and recommend the right repairs be completed.
