Rattling noise and wont go in gear

ANSWER : If the clutch mechanism is releasing properly, and the shift linkage is not malfunctioning, your transmission will have to be removed from the vehicle and inspected. Once a transmission has been removed from a vehicle, if the problem is a broken or worn part or parts, and the transmission has 100,000 miles or more, the most cost effective approach is to just simply rebuild the whole transmission. There are transmission rebuild kits that are sold just for this purpose. Rebuilding a transmission is no big deal and is indeed easier in many respects than rebuilding an engine. You can rebuild your transmission right in your own garage. You can NOT rebuild an engine in your own garage due to the highly specialized, and extremely costly, machine shop equipment required. Occasionally, mobile mechanics will take on a transmission rebuild job especially as once the mechanic removes the transmission from the vehicle, it is just simply a modular unit that can be easily transported to a mechanic’s shop and rebuilt right there and then returned to your vehicle. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : From what you’ve described, it sounds like the shifter cable came off at the transmission or the shifter. I’d suggest checking the shift linkage on the transmission to see if the cable came off. This is due to the connector end bushing falling apart and not being able to hold the cable on any longer. Some cables have to be replaced as a whole and as with others the bushing can be replaced to fix the cable. I’d suggest contacting a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, who can come diagnose your shifting issue and make the necessary repairs to your vehicle. Good luck.

ANSWER : Hey there. The most common source of rattles on Subaru’s are the exhaust heat shields. They can rattle under all sorts of random circumstances. Whenever you turn, accelerate, let off the gas or brake, the motor experiences torque that is dampened by the engine mounts so the passengers won’t feel these vibrations. This torquing will affect the exhaust as much as any other component on the car. Checking for exhaust shield rattles is fairly simple. Use a soft mallet hammer to tap on the shields to see if it rattles. If it does, repairing this is more challenging than locating it. It’s a creative process that can only be decided in person. Of course, you will need to get under that car to access all of the shields.

Other than the exhaust shields, it could be a dust shield on the brakes or a sway bar end link. Both of these are far less common as determined by your description of your symptoms. If it is a sway bar end link, it will rattle most often when you go over bumps. If it is the brake dust shield, you will need to remove the wheel to see if the shield is loose.

If you need further help having this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the rattling noise so that this can be corrected.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you provided, your vehicle has problems with the transmission again. You stated it will not shift into 3rd gear again, like before the transmission was rebuilt. If the transmission is again the problem, it should be covered under warranty. It could be a faulty shift solenoid. The shift indicator not reading properly could be a faulty transmission position sensor. If this is an overall lack of performance issue, according to your last statement, then possibly you have a restriction in the exhaust system. I recommend having your vehicle’s problems inspected and diagnosed by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : There are a couple of possibilities. The first thing that comes to mind is of course the shifter itself. There is a nylon ball and socket joint at the base of the gearshift lever that sometimes falls apart, making the feel of the shifter very vague. Additionally, there are links to the transmission shift linkage that involve nylon bushings and joints that can fall apart. Both problems are very common on your car. The other less common possibility is that you have a bad motor mount that is allowing the transmission to move around too much when you try to shift gears. either way, it’s not a big deal to fix, and probably won’t require expensive transmission work. If you contact Your Mechanic, they can send a technician to your home or office to check out you shifting issue and let you know what repairs it will take to correct it.

ANSWER : This can be related to many potential issues; however, one that is somewhat common is the deterioration of the transmission gear synchronizers. These are small fork-shaped components that assist the transmission from going in and out of gear. When these are damaged or worn out, this can cause the shifting into and out of gears to be very difficult and in some cases impossible. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose and repair your transmission.

ANSWER : Hello – your clutch hydraulics are the problem here. Check the clutch hydraulics fluid level – and it may share the same reservoir as the brake master cylinder (both use brake fluid as the hydraulic medium). If fluid needs to be added, that means that probably the clutch slave cylinder is leaking – this might be visible as a clear, but bitter-smelling liquid on the ground under the engine. I recommend a clutch hydraulics inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hi there. Base on the information you’ve provided this may be a result of the leveling kit installation. I would check the caliper on the left front and make sure the mounting bolts for the caliper and pads are proper tightened. Then check the installation of the shock to see if the nut is overtightened and squeezing the bushing flat; simply look a the top of the shock and see if the bushing is flat and allowing the metal washers to make contact. Also check the sway bar link for similar signs as noted for checking the shock. The last thing that I would suspect is a wheel bearing that may not have been properly tightened or may need to be torqued. YourMechanic has several technicians that can provide you with a proper suspension inspection for the noise and advise you further on repairs.