Car was making loud squeal, tightening of the wheel while driving during occasional turns with the occasional no start in the morning. No noise, no lights. Not cranking at all. Dead. Boost fixed. Took to a mechanic and it was determined to be a bad belt and seizing tensioner. Alt wasn't charging, and putting pressure on power steering. Had these replaced. No more squeal, no more tight wheel. Still having a no start issue. It appears like the car is dead, turn the key over and no noise under the hood, no lights on at all. Nothing. Boost works fine. It's not often but more often than I l
You may have a dead battery, Or your battery cables may be corroded or both. Corroded battery cables can prevent the alternator from charging the battery as well as preventing the battery’s energy from reaching the car. Sometimes with corroded cables, a minor disturbance is enough to re-establish a connection. Hence your experience with shifting the car. You could also suspect a neutral safety switch, because of the thing that happens when you move the car, but that wouldn’t explain the lack of dashboard indicators. Either way, it doesn’t sound like you have a major problem. If you contact Your Mechanic they can send a technician to your home or office to check out your starting problem and advise you on what to do.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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If the starter engages but does not disengage when you let go of the key, the solenoid is likely bad and the starter may suffer significant damage as a result. Sometimes your car starts, sometimes it doesn`t. Intermittent operation can be a sign of a failing starter solenoid.
is not starting is probably to do with a dead or faulty battery. There are other possible causes, of course–but battery trouble is the most common culprit. was working just fine yesterday, it`s almost certainly a dead battery that you`re dealing with.
If your car won`t start but the battery is good, the most common cause is a faulty starter – though it could also be to do with your fuel. You may have insufficient fuel to get the car going.
The most common cause of a 2003 Toyota Corolla not starting and not clicking is a dead battery. Unfortunately it could also be a lot of other more complicated things—like bad wiring, a faulty solenoid, or a broken starter. Start with getting a jump start for your Corolla and see if that gets it going.
It might be a battery or alternator problem
If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn`t have enough juice to stay powered. So instead, it rapidly turns on and off and produces a clicking noise!
Typically when your electrical accessories are working well, but it takes a few cranks for the engine to start, the issue is with the fuel or ignition system. In most cases, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, throttle body or mass air flow sensor will be the root source of this problem.
Starter – Your starter may be loose, so make sure it is bolted in place. Injectors – A bad injector can keep the engine from firing. Cold Start Valve – If the engine is cold and the cold start valve is bad, it can keep your car from starting.
If you`re unable to start your vehicle, check and see if the headlights and dash lights come on. If they shine bright and clear, that means that the battery and alternator are likely not the cause of the problem. If they were, there wouldn`t be enough power to run the lights.
This voltage range means the battery is in good condition for starting the vehicle. If the measured reading is less than 12.2 volts, the battery`s resting voltage is weak, which means it most likely needs to be charged or replaced.
It sounds like you may have a starter solenoid that may be in the beginning stages of failing or potentially a weak battery. Typically, when a battery is weak you may have some erratic start failures that will usually result in a clicking sound as you describe.
Fuel Pressure & Fuel Pump
When the fuel pump starts to go bad, that pressure will start to go away when the engine isn`t running. This is one of the most common reasons that your car won`t start after it`s sat for many hours.
Battery Current Sensor Problems
Dirt and Debris: Dirt, debris, or corrosion on car batteries can penetrate into the sensor causing malfunctioning. This failure can lead to a number of electrical problems including no-start.
The MAF can become clogged with excessive carbon build-up from the combustion cycle, or sometimes by road grime. If it is too dirty, it will be unable to correctly measure the air fuel ratio, and cause your car to not start or exhibit other unusual symptoms.
The battery can be fully charged but still not be able to start the vehicle if it is failing or has a dead cell. Other likely issues are the fuel pump, ignition switch, battery cables, starter, or a clogged fuel filter.
The starter relay is one of the most critical and often overlooked components in any vehicle ignition system. The starting relay is a small electrical device located in the starting circuit of a large current motor. The relay is just a remote control switch that regulates the current in a high-current circuit.
If the voltmeter reads between 14-15 volts then the battery is normal. But if the battery reads over 15 volts or less than 13 volts, then there might be a problem with the alternator. The alternator is over charging the battery or not giving enough charge to the battery.
The Do Nots of the Alternator
Your car will just not start. Some people believe that you can just tap the alternator with a hammer to get it to operate. You should not do this because it will damage the part and you might even damage the surrounding parts to the car, resulting is a large car repair bill.
A fully charged car battery should have a voltage of around 12.6 volts. When the battery voltage drops below 12 volts, there is a possibility that it won`t have enough power to start the car. It is recommended to have a battery with a voltage of at least 12.4 volts to ensure a reliable start.
A fully charged battery should register at 12.7 volts or more. If the voltage falls below this number, the battery should be recharged. A battery is only charged by one quarter at just 12 volts. Once it drops to 11.9 volts, your battery is considered dead.
If the battery doesn`t receive sufficient power, the charging output of your battery gets used up in operating the vehicle`s electrical systems. Ultimately, as all the charge drains out, your vehicle battery dies, and you`d no longer be able to start your vehicle.
If your Toyota ECU is failing, you can try to reset it. A straightforward method is to disconnect the negative and battery terminals. Then touch the two cables you just removed (not the battery posts) together for about two minutes. That will reset the engine control units in most cases.
CAUSES OF FAULTY STARTERS: CAUSE OF FAILURE
Electrical connections faulty. Solenoid switch (engaging relay) stiff or faulty. Electric motor damaged electrically. Single-pinion gear, starter pinion or freewheel damaged.
A dead battery is the most common cause of a clicking noise when trying to start your car. Usually, you will hear a rapid succession of clicks. The noise indicates that the starter solenoid or relay is operating, but there isn`t enough battery current to turn the starter motor.