losse of heat when going 70.

The heat works great up until around hitting 70mph, then it starts blowing cool air. The temp guage also drops. If you slow down, it goes back up and heat returns. Antifreeze is full.. Temp guage???

My car has 124000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. I have come across this same problem several times. The majority of the time it is caused by a failing thermostat. Due to the poor design of a metal thermostat molded into a plastic housing these will not wear the same and the thermostat ends up sticking in the housing and no longer closing correctly. If this occurs, the coolant does not stay in the engine long enough to get hot, and will get hot under an increased load, such as going up a hill. I would typically change the thermostat first. If you needed to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to replace the thermostat for you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most common reasons a Jeep Liberty heater isn`t working are a broken heater blower motor, a problem with the thermostat, or a failed heater blower motor resistor. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue. Oops!
A thermostat that is stuck open can cause the engine to run colder than normal and turn on the check engine light. It may also cause poor fuel mileage and the heater to blow cool air. A thermostat that is stuck closed will cause the vehicle to overheat.
The most common reasons a Jeep Liberty is overheating are a coolant leak (water pump, radiator, hose etc.), the radiator fan, or a failed thermostat. Coolant leak (water pump, radiator, hose etc.)
If the temperature gauge consistently shows the engine is warmer than normal, have your cooling system checked ASAP. There are many possible reasons that your engine is running hot, including low coolant levels, a clogged or closed thermostat, a failed head gasket or a water pump malfunction.
If your coolant level is a-okay, but your car heater is blowing cold air and your engine is overheating, then you have a clog in your cooling system. Conversely, if your engine temperatures are unrealistically low after a drive, your thermostat is likely the culprit.
What causes heat not to work in a car can include: Faulty thermostat. Low antifreeze/coolant. Faulty heater fan.
One common reason engines overheat while idling is a faulty or broken cooling system. This could include problems with the radiator, water pump, or fan belt. If any part of your car`s cooling system is not functioning properly, your engine may be at risk of overheating.
The Coolant Is Low or Contaminated

Like the thermostat problem, this may not present itself until your engine reaches operating temperature. While this may present itself when the vehicle is idling, it`s likely that your engine will keep overheating when you drive again.

Car overheats when driving but not when idling

If your temperature gauge is fine until you make the car work, the most likely issue is coolant flow.

The auxiliary water pump moves hot water or coolant that has recently circulated through the engine block to the heater core. However, when the pump is not working, due to an electronics failure or the motor of the auxiliary pump being broken, the heater core will not be able to heat up.
If you find your furnace blowing cold air, you may have a dirty or clogged air filter. To make sure, remove the air filter and inspect it. If it`s clogged with dust, clean it with compressed air or wash it in warm water with mild soap or just buy a new one.
Only Use Water In The Radiator In An Emergency

If it`s really low or actually empty, you need to add fluid to your vehicle. While it`s ideal to add a 50/50 mix of coolant and water (or a pre-mixed coolant), if you absolutely have to keep driving, you can add water to the radiator to get you to your destination.

It`s most likely an incorrect thermostat setting if you find your furnace blowing warm air, not hot. The fan is set to “on” instead of “auto.” Furnaces only pump hot air until the thermostat setting is reached, so if your fan is always on, it will blow both hot air when the furnace is heating and cold when it`s not.
Dirt Buildup

One of the most common causes of a heater blowing cold air is a clogged filter. However, even if you replace the air filter with a new one, dirt and other particles can still be present inside the system. This could lead to overheating in the long run.

It`s most likely an incorrect thermostat setting if you find your furnace blowing warm air, not hot. The fan is set to “on” instead of “auto.” Furnaces only pump hot air until the thermostat setting is reached, so if your fan is always on, it will blow both hot air when the furnace is heating and cold when it`s not.
Look for broken parts, split hoses, and leaks. Obstructions and leaks are common issues that cause low heat delivery to the cabin of your Jeep. Repair or replace any broken or damaged parts. Do a simple coolant level check of your reservoir and radiator when your Jeep is completely cooled.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

A/C and heat are not working properly. Car blows heat in summer and cool air in winter.
ANSWER : Common causes of no cabin heat include malfunctioning blend door(s) (part of the in-dash ventilation network), a faulty or stuck heater control valve, a plugged heater core, stuck open engine cooling thermostat, collapsed hoses, and low coolant level. The cost to resolve the problem depends on which of the foregoing faults is the cause. If you desire a diagnostic to determine exactly why there is no cabin heat, please request a non functioning cabin heater diagnostic and the responding mechanic will come right to your location and get this resolved for you promptly.

With regard to your air conditioning system, if merely re-charging the system restored normal operation but the a/c ceased to function after a month or so, that scenario typically suggests a leak. Some leaks are really cheap to repair, like if a couple o-rings need to be replaced in system piping but if the leak is at the compressor shaft seal, that repair is more costly. It is not expensive to find the leak and diagnose the system and once the leak is found the mechanic can let you know of the exact cost to repair the leak and re-charge the system. If you desire that service please request an a/c system diagnostic – suspected refrigerant leak and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

My car won’t go past 35mph
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you provided, your vehicle has problems with the transmission again. You stated it will not shift into 3rd gear again, like before the transmission was rebuilt. If the transmission is again the problem, it should be covered under warranty. It could be a faulty shift solenoid. The shift indicator not reading properly could be a faulty transmission position sensor. If this is an overall lack of performance issue, according to your last statement, then possibly you have a restriction in the exhaust system. I recommend having your vehicle’s problems inspected and diagnosed by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

I bought a used car 2010 nissan versa and when I go uphill it slows down alot. When going uphill it says go 60mph I am at that sp
ANSWER : Hi there. When a car is slow to accelerate it can be caused by multiple issues, ranging from fuel systems that are clogged or damaged to an ignition system component failure. It is also possible that something in the driveline system is dragging which causes the lack of acceleration. Since there are so many different possible issues, the best way to start the diagnosis process is to have a professional mobile mechanic from our team come to your location and complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

Heat inside car stays warm for minute then blows cold until I turn heat off for a minute and try again.
ANSWER : Hi there. The engine always at operating temperature leads me to believe, the thermostat is not the cause, for no heat inside the vehicle. There are several possibilities for no heat inside, the heater control valve is malfunctioning, the heater core is restricted, the temperature blend door actuator is malfunctioning. Replacing components without diagnoses, can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. I recommend having your vehicle’s inoperative heater be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

Unable to go past 70-80 Km when going up a hill. Code P0174 with flashing engine light
ANSWER : Hello. A flashing Check Engine Light is an indicator that the computer has detected an issue that may potentially cause harm to the vehicle’s emission system components. The code P0174 indicates a lean condition on bank 2 of the engine. A lean condition is when there is insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine. This will cause misfires, hesitation, loss of power, but is also dangerous to the engine, as a lean condition can lead to detonation. A lean condition can be caused by many things. A few things I would check are the fuel pump, injector, and the MAF and oxygen sensor signals. If you need a diagnostic to be done in person, a certified technician from YourMechanic can come to your location to inspect the loss of power problem and advise on proper repairs.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

losse of heat when going 70.
ANSWER : Hi there. I have come across this same problem several times. The majority of the time it is caused by a failing thermostat. Due to the poor design of a metal thermostat molded into a plastic housing these will not wear the same and the thermostat ends up sticking in the housing and no longer closing correctly. If this occurs, the coolant does not stay in the engine long enough to get hot, and will get hot under an increased load, such as going up a hill. I would typically change the thermostat first. If you needed to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to replace the thermostat for you.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.

Air flow going up and down when gauges go up and down
ANSWER : The electrical system on these vehicles are known to have an issue with fretting corrosion buildup in multiple electrical connectors throughout the vehicle. An affected system would need to have that electrical connection disconnected, cleaned, and a dielectric compound put on the connection to fix the issue. You will need to have a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, isolate the failing components, and conduct an electrical problems inspection, such as the one described, for you.

Read Full Q/A … : losse of heat when going 70.