Loss of power and stalling when braking.
My RPMs lower to approximately 500 when braking. The car has already stalled once when this happens.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Having your car stall on you when you are trying to brake can be a frustrating and dangerous experience. Your RPMS dropping low and your vehicle stalling can be caused by a few different problems. The issue may be due to something simple, such as vacuum leak or a dirty throttle body. Or it is possible that the EGR valve is sticking closed and stalling your car when you come to a stop. Due to the fact that there can be various causes that could duplicate the same symptoms, I highly recommend enlisting the assistance of certified mechanic to help verify why your car is having these symptoms.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Braking Causes Car to Cut Out – Reasons
Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine.
The most common reasons a Ford F-150 shakes when braking are bad brake rotors, bad brake pads, or a bad wheel bearing. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
Shaking while braking usually means that you have an issue with your rotors. It`s not necessary what is going on with it, but that is the typical answer to the problem.
You will feel a loss in power while accelerating and at times intermittent jerks. To solve this issue find the fuel filter located in the engine bay or near the fuel tank in your car`s trunk. If the fuel filter is clogged replace it if you have the skills to do so or get it changed at your local mechanic shop.
In most cases, stiff brakes are caused by problems with the brake booster. Brake boosters multiply the force applied to your brake pedal, and they work in tandem with the hydraulic fluid in the brake lines. This system, also known as power brakes, allows you to stop a two-ton vehicle with just your foot!
Brake shudder (also known as brake judder) is the vibration felt through the steering wheel and suspension when the brakes are applied at certain speeds and pressures. It can vary from a barely noticeable vibration to a violent judder – experienced through either the brake pedal or steering wheel.
Brake pulsation usually only has one cause, which is warped rotors/brake discs. The main cause of warped rotors is excessive hard braking or fast stops which can severely overheat the discs.
1) Your pedal vibrated because the ABS (anti-lock braking system) was activated. If the pedal vibrations (pulsing and groaning noises, too) happened when you e-braked, chances are ABS was activated. ABS prevents your tyres from locking up, which could lead to an uncontrollable skid.
Tires can get worn out from everyday use or a misaligned suspension, to name a few reasons. Uneven tire treads can then lead to car vibrations which may be noticeable during braking, acceleration, or deacceleration. It`s the car`s way of telling you that something needs attention.
Why does my car not accelerate when I push the gas? A car not accelerating properly can be caused by a number of things. It could be due to the throttle body, gas tank, spark plugs, or the ECU. It could also be because you have a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter.
There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.
First of all, to dispel the myth – engine braking does not harm your engine at all. Engines are designed to run at thousands of revs per minute for hours at a time. Changing down, whilst may be a bit jerky at times, doesn`t inflict any damage. It`s also good for the engine because it was designed to be driven that way.
While it may be surprising, a check engine light (CEL) can come from a faulty brake system. And because brakes undergo constant use and rely on numerous components, a lot can go wrong.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.
Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.
Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.
Brake sensor is to sensitive causing brakes to flicker while driving. 2005 Mercury Montego
Hi there – your brake light switch needs a minor adjustment. It is adjusted too "tight" or close to the brake pedal lever, or possibly has failed. Adjusting/replacing it will eliminate this flickering problem. I recommend a brake light isn’t working inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
I replaced the brake light switch. Gear lever unlocked because it had locked. Now the brakes feel hard.
Hi, thanks for writing in. You need to check the brake switch install adjustment. You may have the switch adjusted too tight and it is holding the the brake pedal partly down. This will cause the brake master cylinder to not release the brakes when you let off the pedal. Readjust the switch away from the pedal until you feel some free play again in the pedal. This should fix the problem. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.
Why no brakes
I would first recommend checking the brake fluid level. There needs to be ample brake fluid in the system to so that there is not a lack of hydraulic pressure. Secondly, check to be sure you do not have vacuum leak in the brake booster. As you may know, the brake booster operates off of vacuum pressure and when there is a vacuum leak, this can cause a loss of braking power from little to nothing at all. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose your braking system and possibly repair the vacuum break booster.
Hard brake pedal and rear brakes locking up.
Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.