Is There a Way to Reduce Glare From Car Mirrors?

ANSWER : When it comes to the interior or rear view mirror, the quickest way to reduce glare is to use the tab lever under the mirror
to rotate the angle of the mirror which changes the angle of the reflected light and will reduce the glare. Most everyone has been in a situation where a large truck or other vehicle is behind you and the lights are practically searing your retinas.

Given the variety of light types today and the resulting candle power or lumens, glare can be a real concern when driving at night. Even standard vehicles with HID or LED bulbs can be exceptionally bright when reflecting off of your mirrors. I’m sure you have encountered these vehicles coming toward you as well.

Some mirrors have an auto dimming feature which will change the shading or reflectivity of the mirror to decrease the glare to the driver.

Now let’s consider what happens when it comes to the outside rear view mirrors and glare.
Here you run into the problem that the design of these mirrors, along with the science that makes the effect work for the manual rearview mirror, cannot be duplicated for the exterior mirrors in a manual mode. The only option here is to buy a vehicle that comes with auto dimming exterior mirrors or to order an aftermarket kit, and have them installed if they are available for your make and model. Reducing glare reduces stress on the driver and can help to prevent accidents.

ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

ANSWER : The first concern is whether you could have an exhaust leak or a fuel leak. If leaks of that type exist, they should be repaired as both are safety hazards. Occasionally, just due to the weather, exhaust fumes can get drawn into cabin air. At no time, however, is it normal for significant amounts of raw gasoline to be in the air, or leaking as a liquid, especially on a modern car which has sophisticated systems to capture any potential fugitive emissions of vaporous gasoline. If this was a one-off incident, and just limited to exhaust odor, not to worry but if you regularly detect the distinct odor of raw gasoline, that should be investigated at once because leaking gasoline is a fire/explosion hazard. As far as damage to personal belongings from exhaust or gasoline vapors, in ordinary concentrations and if the exposure is fleeting, there is no damage potential. The reason is gasoline is highly volatile and so evaporates into the atmosphere. However, if you spill liquid gasoline on materials, the non volatile compounds will be around for a long time and indeed will destroy many common materials as gasoline is a highly aggressive solvent. Most of the hazard from gasoline vapors is not to personal property but rather to your health because gasoline contains known, well documented carcinogens such as benzene. So, the bottom line is fleeting exposure to the vapors will not damage property but will damage your health. With regard to leaks (exhaust or gasoline, liquid or vapor), if you desire a safety inspection performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a comprehensive vehicle safety inspection and the responding certified mechanic will address all of your concerns and look at the condition of your entire vehicle. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Prior to buying any car, drive the car around and listen for any noises. Then do an inspection on the vehicle to make sure that it is safe to drive. All cars will need maintenance, but if the car was kept up, then the maintenance should be to a minimum.

ANSWER : I have only seen this situation once in my 30+ years and it turned out to be a broken crankshaft pulley. Belts are driven by the engine. The crankshaft pulley spins the belts, which in turn spin the air conditioner compressor, power steering and water pumps, and the alternator. The vehicle should be towed to your local repair shop and not driven. Without the water pump spinning to circulate the coolant, the engine will quickly overheat and result in more extensive damage.

ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello,
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.