I need to know where the fuel line kill switch is located

ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. There is no fuel line kill switch for your particular vehicle. There is a fuel pump fuse which can act as a fuel line kill switch. It is located in the rear compartment fuse box. The rear compartment fuse box is located in the trunk of the vehicle near the driver side. The fuel pump fuse should be number 25 and the fuel pump relay should be number 37.

ANSWER : Hi there. When you wiggle the wires to the kill switch and the gauges start to work, then the contacts inside the switch could be broken. You could replace the kill switch with a toggle switch that will do the same thing but keep the circuit working. The kill switch is tied into the ignition circuit to the vehicle, which is tied into the lights, dash gauges, and the ignition system. Simply removing the kill switch circuit may cause more problems than you want to have. You could put a relay on the kill circuit and have it energized when the ignition tumbler is turned on. This will bypass the kill switch and keep the same function as a kill switch when the key is turned off (this would work similar to the fuel pump relay). If you need further assistance with the kill switch making the gauges not work, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : An auto fuel cutoff switch is a safety feature that is only supposed to activate in a collision. If you merely ran out of gas, or ran low on gas, the status of this switch is probably irrelevant. Nevertheless, if your vehicle was equipped by Kia with an auto fuel cut off switch, the switch and its location is described in the owner’s manual for the car. According to Kia technical advice, "The auto fuel cutoff switch is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. In the event of a collision or sudden impact, the auto fuel cutoff device cuts off the fuel supply. If this device is activated, it must be reset by pressing in on the top of the switch before the engine can be restarted."

If your vehicle was equipped with this safety feature, and if once you fill the tank with fuel, pressing the switch does not enable you to start the vehicle, it is possible that running low on the fuel has clogged the fuel pump pick up in the tank with tank debris from the bottom and/or the fuel pump impeller seal has been damaged due to inadequate cooling which occurs when there is little liquid fuel left in the tank. The bottom line is, if you still have a no start condition after filling the tank and pressing the switch, it is recommended that you request a no start diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will runs the necessary tests on the fuel system to see if you need fuel system repairs, possibly including fuel pump replacement. If you have additional concerns, please let us know and hope we can help you with any needed repairs.

ANSWER : Hey there. If the system is an aftermarket type, then you would need to have the entire system removed or the system replaced with a new system. These systems all hook up a little different and only after looking at the install can a mechanic remove it and put the wiring back to original connections so you can start and run the vehicle. You may consider consulting with the shop were you originally got the part or the manufacturer so that they can assist you further with this.

ANSWER : Hi Chace,

Thank you for contacting YourMechanic! We have looked at your request for the fuel line for your vehicle. Occasionally, we encounter a situation in which we cannot perform a specific service on a particular vehicle. After reviewing your request, it was determined that YourMechanic will not be able to provide that service in a mobile setting.

We recommend taking your vehicle to a local repair shop or dealership to complete the required service.

We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. We hope to have the opportunity to provide a different service for your vehicle in the future.

Questions? Check out our FAQ page at https://www.yourmechanic.com/support or call us at 1-800-701-6230 between 6am to 5pm Mon-Fri and 7am to 4pm Sat-Sun PST.

Best regards,

Erick
YourMechanic Customer Service Team

ANSWER : Hi there. Unfortunately, I think Jay is correct here. Usually when you see air bubbles in the filter, it’s due to a pick-up issue or debris in the fuel. If the gas tank is the original one from 1980, it is very likely that the tank is filled with excessive debris. You might want to drain the fuel tank, and inspect it for damage.

ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.