How do I break in the engine?

How do I break in the engine?
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It’s important that you follow the right break-in procedure when your engine is new. Doing so will help ensure that you get the most life and use out of your vehicle. Not doing so can limit the engine’s lifespan and possibly cause damage. Here’s what to do:

Avoid sudden stops in the first 200 miles of driving.
Don’t tow anything for the first 500 miles.
Don’t drive fast for the first 1,000 miles.
Avoid suddenly slowing down for the first 1,000 miles.
Avoid using only low gears for the first 1,000 miles.
Keep your speeds varied for the first 1,000 miles (don’t drive at a constant speed).

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To extend the life of the vehicle, observing the following precautions is recommended: For the first 200 miles (300 km): Avoid sudden stops. For the first 500 miles (800 km): Do not tow a trailer.
The right way to break in a new car

Doing an engine break-in used to be a standard procedure with new cars. And it`s still the case that you should avoid running the engine at high RPM for the first 1,300 miles. Experts recommend a maximum 3,500 rpm and 90 mph in diesel models and 4,500 rpm and 100 mph in gas models.

However, the typical break-in period is within the first 500-1000 miles. If you give in to the common urge and start pushing your engine too hard early on, you risk accelerating this process, causing minute imperfections in the size and shape of engine components.
Starting at around 800 to 1,000 km, once the engine has reached its running temperature you can accelerate a bit more aggressively and rev the engine more. As the mileage on your odometer creeps up, you can rev the engine higher before shifting and start to use the full range of the engine`s power.
So, do new car engines still have a break-in period? In short, yes, they do. Most automakers advise a brief mechanical run-in, or break-in period, at least for the first few weeks someone takes home a new vehicle.
Use a 5w-30 or 10w-30 motor oil with an engine break-in additive (ZDDP or zinc camshaft additive), especially with flat tappet camshafts.
As a rule, use break-in motor oil for 500 – 1,000 miles, or 10-12 full heat cycles. If using it for 10-12 full heat cycles, you want to allow the engine to reach full operating temperature and cool down completely between cycles. Use engine break-in oil only long enough to seat the engine.
The 2012 Toyota RAV4 is a great used compact SUV . It has a good reputation for reliability, seating for up to seven passengers, and a boxy cargo area that can easily fit large items. This Toyota is available with zippy four- and six-cylinder engines, and it rides comfortably even on rough and broken pavement.
Experts tend to agree that you can put upwards of 200,000 to 250,000 miles on a Toyota RAV4 if it has been properly cared for.
According to JE`s Senior Technical Account Manager Alan Stevenson, “You don`t want to break-in an engine at idle. You want to keep the rpm above 1,500 and vary the speed continuously for about the first 20 minutes.” After bringing the engine up to normalized coolant and oil temperature, put the engine under load.
Keep your engine speed between 2,000 and 4,000 rpm; don`t maintain one constant speed for long periods of time (meaning that, even if you`re on the highway, be sure to vary your speed often during those first 600 miles—this allows the piston rings to seal properly, reducing premature wear to the engine).
This feature may alert you if you`re drowsy and suggest you take a break when it`s safe to do so. What It Does: A coffee cup or other symbol appears on your dash suggesting you take a break.
Better performance – Breaking in a new car will help to improve engine performance in the long-term. That`s because friction is limited and parts are balanced and working together efficiently, ensuring better power delivery.
Often, engines which approach mileage of 300,000km or those that have been poorly maintained will need more than an engine overhaul. They will require a complete engine re-build.
NO. Only moving parts have any kind of break-in period. If your car is running rougher after new plugs, then either the gap is wrong or they are the wrong plus for your car.
You can make your engine last longer by having a detailed plan for how you will care for it and reduce the risk of early engine trouble. Your engine care plan should include regular tune-up visits, oil changes, warming your engine and cooling it down properly and lightening the load as much as possible.
Piston rings are first to wear out most of the time. They are under much mechanical and friction stress, poorly oiled, and subjected to combustion particulates.
Too much oil can damage your engine. If you notice an overfill of oil, the excess should be drained out of the engine. Therefore, we recommend checking your dipstick regularly.”
There`s no such thing as “break in” oil. The oil that the car comes with can typically be used and then changed out at the first maintenance interval. There is absolutely no reason to get an oil change at 800–1200 miles, the usual break in period.
When you drive with a low oil level, you risk causing damage to the moving parts of your engine. That`s because engine oil is designed to provide lubrication for the moving parts of your engine. The lower the engine, the most likely these parts will experience friction. This can lead to excessive parts wear.
This feature may alert you if you`re drowsy and suggest you take a break when it`s safe to do so. What It Does: A coffee cup or other symbol appears on your dash suggesting you take a break.
In short, yes, they do. Most automakers advise a brief mechanical run-in, or break-in period, at least for the first few weeks someone takes home a new vehicle. Each vehicle will have different requirements, owners are encouraged to take a closer look at their vehicle`s owner`s manual for specific information.
This feature may alert you if you`re drowsy and suggest you take a break when it`s safe to do so. What It Does: A coffee cup or other symbol appears on your dash suggesting you take a break.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Can front wheel drive car engine power rear wheel drive
ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

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Check engine light refuses to go off after engine replaced
ANSWER : Hello there, you have a long series of issues going on with your 2013 Hyundai Sonata. If you keep getting a repeating oil light on than there is likely a fault in that system.

Since this fault has lasted after the engine was replaced it could be a oil pressure sensor, wiring harness fault, ECU fault, oil pump, oil strainer clogged, or low oil pressure.

To diagnose this issue properly you need a complete vehicle inspection to start from square one and identify the root cause of all this.

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Engine malfunction light, reduced engine power, engine powered down
ANSWER : Hi there. There are a lot of things that can cause this on your 2012 BMW M5. I usually start by scanning the computer for codes to see what comes up. If there are not codes then I load test the alternator and the battery to see if they are failing. Low voltage in the electrical system will cause this. If that is fine, then it is usually caused by a failing throttle body. I have seen a lot of these fail due to the motors in them hanging up. If the problem is only happening intermittently, this can make the issue hard to duplicate, but you can still have tests done on the car. If you are going to have this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to test the vehicle and diagnose the Engine Malfunction Light.

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I have a 2010 camry. I just recently replaced the engine with a 2014 camry engine. Now I have Four engine lights on. I replaced on
ANSWER : If you swapped the engine from a vehicle that is 4 years newer than the car is then you are going to have electrical and sensor incompatibilities that may not be able to be fixed by just a few sensor replacements. There were many changes in computer and emission related items between 2010 and 2014 engines. I would recommend having a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come to you and compare the two engines to isolate the possible differences and see if the problem can be fixed.

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Check Engine light on. Would the computer give all error codes in one shot? How do we know the engine’s condition?
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, I’m am inclined to agree with your assessment of a used engine being installed in your vehicle. An inspection of the engine, by a qualified technician could determine whether the engine is sound. The Check Engine Light on and having a TPS (throttle position sensor) code does not necessarily mean the sensor is at fault. Circuit tests should be performed to confirm the fault. The likelihood of the ECM (electronic control module/computer) giving you all the codes at once is remote. Other component failures could occur. Address those as they come up. Even though you already made the purchase, I recommend having your vehicle inspected by a certified technician so that you can get a thorough evaluation of the car’s true condition.

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How do you replace the rear & side engine mounts without lifting out the engine? & how do you lift the engine out?
ANSWER : Hi…thank you for your questions. If required in the application, a portable engine support bar is used to support an engine during mount replacement. The support bar has lifting capability as well so that the mount can be unloaded and removed. If a particular repair application requires a "crane" (complete engine removal for instance), such are portable these days in any event. With regard to the exhaust system repair, mechanics use ramps to gain access. Six ton portable jack stands will safely support a car two feet into the air which provides more than enough access to repair or replace any exhaust system component. If you desire replacement of the mounts, please refer to YourMechanic’s motor mount replacement service page. For exhaust leaks, please use the exhaust system inspection/repair page page. Once on each of those service pages, if you click on "Get a Quote" and enter your vehicle information (year, make, model) you can obtain cost info and schedule the service. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

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Reduce engine power / check engine light is on
ANSWER : Hi there. Most of the time, reduced engine power is caused by a restriction of fuel, or the throttle body’s inability to efficiently mix air and fuel. This could be caused by a failing mass air flow sensor, EGR valve or other fuel system components. Since the check engine light is on, you should have a professional mechanic complete an inspection at your location to determine what codes are stored and which components require repair. This should resolve your issue.

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Engine idle fluctuates
ANSWER : This may need to have the throttle stop screw adjusted. The throttle stop screw’s primary function is to prevent the throttle blade from closing too far and getting wedged/stuck in the throttle bore. However, it serves as a secondary function to adjust the minimum air setting. The “minimum air setting” is what is used to describe the amount of air that is allowed to enter the engine thru a “closed” throttle. Because the throttle valve cannot be allowed to completely close (because this would result in it getting wedged/stuck closed in the throttle bore), some air will always be allowed to enter the engine around the throttle valve. On a 100% factory stock engine, you should never need to adjust the throttle stop screw. But there are times when the adjustment of this screw is necessary. One example of this is when the engine is modified, or a different throttle body is being used than what originally came with the engine. Larger displacement engines require more air to maintain a set idle speed. Aftermarket camshafts with lots of duration or lots of overlap tend to lower the amount of vacuum an engine can generate at idle. Lower vacuum levels translate to less pressure differential between the intake manifold and outside (ambient) air. This means there isn’t as much pressure difference to force air into the engine around the throttle blade or thru the IAC passage at idle. Either the IAC needs to open up or the throttle blade must be opened more to allow more air to enter the engine. Engines that have higher compression or are new/rebuilt can have higher internal loads/friction which can also result in a drop of idle vacuum levels. In short, any condition that increases load on the engine will result in the vacuum level to drop at idle, which will require the IAC or throttle blade to be opened up to compensate.

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