Grinding noise low speed

ANSWER : Hi there:

Diagnosing ’noises’ remotely is one of the more difficult things to do for any mechanic. However, there are a few things which could cause this noise, ranging from loose motor mounts, loose serpentine or drive belt, pulley’s or even wheel or front end suspension issues. The best way to diagnose any problem is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection; so they can ride with you to attempt and replicate the noise; which will help them pinpoint the source of the noise and recommend the right repairs be completed.

ANSWER : If there were something in the way of foreign material (e.g., road debris) stuck, you’d probably hear the noise all the time. The noise may be due to the brake pads (particularly if they are not OEM pads). Non-OEM pads sometimes have chunks of metal in them and if the caliper is sticky, at take-off (i.e., while still at low speed) the pad may be rubbing against the rotor until you get to a high enough speed that the pad finally retracts. It is also possible that the brake dust cover is contacting the rotor, because it was impacted and bent, but the noise should be present all the time if that is the case. Really, the first thing to examine is the brake assembly (pads, caliper, pins in torque plate, rotor, dust cover) on the right side. If the source of the noise is not found there, obviously another rotating component is responsible and that means stuff like axles and the transmission. Be sure it is really wheel related, though. It is possible for accessory drives and pulleys to make noises, too, and such could disappear at higher RPM, just as you are describing. In any event, inasmuch as the noise is so obvious, the origin would be quickly identified during an actual, on site noise diagnostic. Such can be scheduled by YourMechanic at your convenience and performed right at your location. Please let us know if you have additional questions or concerns.

ANSWER : Hi there. If the noise started shortly after the repairs you completed, it is more than likely that you have left something loose inside or an internal component is not properly aligned. However, if the repairs were completed correctly, It is more than likely that you have damage to a wheel bearing. You might want to isolate the noise you are hearing or contact a local mechanic that can come to your location and help you diagnose the noise.

ANSWER : Hi Kyle,
It sounds like you may have a failing or worn out wheel bearing. A wheel bearing will usually fail due to pitting or small damage on the surface of the rollers or the bearing race. Both the surface of the rollers and the race is precision machined to tight tolerances and highly polished to allow the rollers to pass easily over the race with the addition of bearing grease for lubrication and cooling. Over time the bearing will wear slightly, allowing microscopic pieces of metal into the grease. Bearing noise can sound a lot like a brake pad dragging or grinding. It can also sound like whirring, whining or humming depending on how much sound deadening material your vehicle has in it. Bearing noise will always be dependent on vehicle speed meaning as you speed up or slow down the noise should change frequency or loudness. Cornering may affect the noise from a damaged front wheel bearing and is usually more pronounced as you make turns. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi there. The sound that you are hearing is probably from the blower motor to the heater / air conditioning evaporator. Remove the fuse to the blower motor and see if the sound stops. If the sound stops, then the motor or the squirrel cage is bent and rubbing. If the sound is still there when you remove the fuse, then it could be the alternator or power steering pump transmitting the sound through the cabin area. If you need further assistance with locating the source to the high pitch sound near your glove box, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Due to having the tires replaced recently, you may have a balance issue. Tires are "balanced" in a process where they spin the wheel on a machine and make sure they turn evenly. Any issues are corrected by adding weights to certain parts of the tire. The tires may have been improperly balanced, or may not have been balanced at all. You should start there, and see if the issues is resolved. When they have the wheels off, have a technician check the brakes. Make sure the pads were properly installed and are in place. Between the two inspections and any possible corrections, the issue would go away. If the noises continue, you will want to have the wheel assemblies inspected.

ANSWER : Hello. If the noise is still there when the engine is off and if you are not turning the wheel, then it is typically either a failing bearing in the rear differential or it can be a failure in the transfer case if it is four wheel drive.

The transfer case is a very common failure on this vehicle. If it is two wheel drive then I typically start by draining the oil from the rear differential and inspecting the fluid for metal.

Any metal in the fluid indicates a bearing failure. If that is also fine, then it may be an issue within the transmission. It may be a failure in one of the thrust bearings. If you need to get this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your car’s grinding noise.

ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in. I would have a professional mechanic check out the constant velocity joints on your vehicle. One or more of them may be worn enough to cause the noises you describe. S/he can diagnose and replace any failed CV joints.