Engine chugging at low speeds when the weather is bad

I have some problems with the truck. It has a high mileage of around 300,000. Recently, the engine started chugging. It occurs when the weather is bad. When I drive it at the rainy day, it runs a bit rough. It starts and idles well but after a while the engine starts chugging at low speeds around 25 mph. It lasts very shortly and the trucks runs fine after that. Is this serious? Does this happen because of the moisture?
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It is very possible that moisture is getting into the connectors of the engine control module. The connectors should be checked and cleaned if necessary. Di-electric grease can be used to help seal the connectors and keep the moisture out. Fault codes should also be read out of the engine control module to ensure that there are no other failures that could be affecting the drivability of the engine. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who has the expertise to prevent moisture ingress, and has the equipment to interrogate fault memories and determine the cause of your engine hesitation.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

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Some common reasons include a faulty catalytic converter, cracked exhaust manifold, dirty air filter, or bad spark plugs. It`s best to take your truck to a mechanic so they can diagnose the problem and make the necessary repairs.
might bog down when accelerating include:

A clogged fuel or air filter. A blocked catalytic converter. Damaged spark plugs. Faulty fuel pump.

Besides Active Fuel Management problems and carbon buildup, the 4.3L V6 EcoTec3 LV3 engine is very reliable. The AFM system failure is a major problem you would most definitely encounter, and has plagued most GM engines.
Realistically, Expect to Get 150,000 to 200,000 Miles with a Silverado, but Exceptional Maintenance can Add Another 50,000 to 100,000 Miles.
When well maintained, the average mileage life of a Chevy Silverado can be anywhere from 200,000 to 300,000 miles. That`s around 10 to 20 years of service depending on how many miles you`d be driving around Galesburg with your Silverado.
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
Culprits include a dirty fuel filter, clogged fuel tank strainer, clogged or failing fuel injectors, or a defective fuel pump. On most vehicles replacing the fuel filter is a DIY operation.
The most common cause of engine sputtering are issues with the fuel system. These can range from bad fuel filters, fuel pump issues, or fuel injector issues.
By Rob Erlick. Engine RPM bog down occurs as the engine is loaded beyond its torque-producing capabilities. This occurs when engine RPMs are allowed to decay below the design specification. Bog down can occur during ground start, taxi, and the landing roll.
GM`s New 4.3 Liter V6 EcoTec3 Engine Rated At 18 MPG City, 24 MPG Highway.
Standard 4.3L V6 allows for an impressive 23 mpg highway, and can still tow a trailer weighing as much as 7,000 pounds when properly configured. Sierra`s 5.3L V8 engine puts out a sufficient 355 horsepower. Its Flex-fuel capability allows the engine to run a fuel mix of up to 85% Ethanol.
The original engine family was phased out in early 2014, with its final use as the 4.3 L (262 cu in) V6 engine used in Chevrolet and GMC trucks and vans. Its phaseout marks the end of an era of Chevrolet small-block engine designs dating back to the 1955 model year.
The original engine family was phased out in early 2014, with its final use as the 4.3 L (262 cu in) V6 engine used in Chevrolet and GMC trucks and vans. Its phaseout marks the end of an era of Chevrolet small-block engine designs dating back to the 1955 model year.
The original engine family was phased out in early 2014, with its final use as the 4.3 L (262 cu in) V6 engine used in Chevrolet and GMC trucks and vans. Its phaseout marks the end of an era of Chevrolet small-block engine designs dating back to the 1955 model year.
2014 Chevy Silverado 1500

If you were to look at Chevy Silverado`s since 2005, it has been widespread that 2014 was known as the worst year for the 1500 due to its malfunctioning heating and air conditioning system. Its AC condensers were leaking, which required frequent replacements.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Engine chugging at low speeds when the weather is bad
ANSWER : It is very possible that moisture is getting into the connectors of the engine control module. The connectors should be checked and cleaned if necessary. Di-electric grease can be used to help seal the connectors and keep the moisture out. Fault codes should also be read out of the engine control module to ensure that there are no other failures that could be affecting the drivability of the engine. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who has the expertise to prevent moisture ingress, and has the equipment to interrogate fault memories and determine the cause of your engine hesitation.

Car is chugging at low speeds and then stalls when I stop.
ANSWER : This may be related to a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer which will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed. This is all controlled by the idle air control valve. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of 750-800 RPM (for most cars), this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.

2007 Honda Odyssey, 102K miles. Started hearing some engine noise when turning steering wheel at low speed couple of weeks ago. En
ANSWER : The noise associated with steering at low speed is not related to the fault causing code P1717 to display. The steering related noise could involve the power steering pump and/or drive belt although there are other possibilities. To pinpoint the source of the noise you are hearing, the recommended service is a power steering system inspection.

With regard to code P1717, that code sets if there is a problem involving the transmission selector range switch. Among the possible faults is a faulty transmission range switch, the transmission range switch harness is open or shorted and/or the transmission range switch circuit has high resistance electrical connections. To resolve that issue, the appropriate service is a check engine light diagnostic – code P1717. During such a diagnostic, a certified mechanic from YourMechanic would retrieve all the diagnostic trouble code(s) from your car’s PCM that have caused the check engine light to illuminate. Using those codes, the appropriate individual vehicle components or sub-systems (often a sensor, circuit, and the like) are tested to pinpoint the cause of the fault or the reason why the check engine light has illuminated. Once the faulty part or component is identified, it is explained to your satisfaction and the mechanic will let you know of the cost to repair. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

1998 Lexus es300. Can no engine compression mean bad computer and not engine replacement?
ANSWER : An engine computer cannot control, or affect, "basic" engine mechanical compression, that is the level of cylinder compression measured in a static test. Even in the complete absence of any engine computer, the basic specified compression of an engine will exist. If the engine doesn’t have the minimum specified compression, then the engine is mechanically broken. If the timing belt on the engine is in the correct position, the SOLE determinants of engine compression, during the typical static test, are: 1) the condition of the cylinder walls and the piston rings; 2) the condition of the engine valves and valve train; and 3) the condition of the head gasket. Consequently, if the engine has no, or little, compression during a test with the throttle held open, there is a mechanical problem with the engine, not an electrical problem. I would first check to be sure the timing belt has not slipped; that fault alone can ruin compression. If the timing belt has not slipped, and you desire a run down of your options to get this resolved, please request a rough engine operation diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic because we want you to make the most of your repair dollars and help you to get the best possible results.

While driving at a speed of 40 mph all at a sudden the car speed dropped to 10 mph and stopped with solid check engine light
ANSWER : Hello. Warning lights accompanied with stalling can be caused by many things. If the oil is low I would go ahead and top it off to prevent the possibility of engine damage, however, it is unlikely that low oil is what caused the stalling. Stalling is most commonly caused by issues with the ignition, engine management, or fuel systems. If one of the components, such as a major sensor, the fuel pump, or the ignition coil, go out or have an issue they can cause the engine to stall. If the vehicle is no longer starting then it may be possible that there is an issue with the electrical system as well, perhaps a faulty battery or alternator. If the alternator goes out it will eventually drain the battery, which could also cause stalling. Scanning the computer for trouble codes, once the vehicle is started, will likely reveal some insight into what the issue may be. As the possibilities could be many, I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location diagnose what may have caused your vehicle to stall.

Diagnostic code read o2 sensor bad, replaced o2 sensor, cleared code but engine light came back on, is it caused by bad air filter
ANSWER : Hello there. Typically jump starting a vehicle doesn’t trigger an OBD-II error code. However, one of the most common misdiagnosis issues with the P-2270 is replacing the O2 sensor before diagnosing if there are any exhaust leaks. Obviously, you’ll want to check for the exhaust leaks first, repair the damaged component, and then clear the codes before scanning the vehicle again. Sometimes the electrical harness attached to the O2 sensor is damaged or dirty which will also trigger this error code. The noise and vibration may be an indicator of a loose exhaust pipe, which may be the source of the error code staying on. If you need any help, have a technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to diagnose your Check Engine Light and make the necessary repairs.

Truck dies at slow speed once warmed up cuts out real bad and dies
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to help. I would recommend checking the mass air flow sensor, as this is a commonly failing part that regulates the flow of air into the intake system as it mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. When this is faulty, this will also cause the truck to die occasionally and/or surge. If you’d like, one of our certified automotive technicians can come to your home or office to inspect the mass air flow sensor for you and make any repairs if needed.

Problem with speed. No check engine light on but when accelerating speed, it decreases then speeds right back up. No stalling at all
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. This is a common problem associated with fuel/air delivery which is very commonly related to what is called a mass airflow sensor. This monitors the flow of air intake into the throttle body as it is mixed with fuel to deliver the right air/fuel mixture into the motor. When this is not working properly, this will cause this kind of hesitation or surging when trying to accelerate. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home or office to confirm a diagnosis on the issue and make or suggest the necessary repairs or replacements.