Doesn’t start

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.

ANSWER : Hi there. First check the remote battery and make sure that it is working. If the battery has not been changed for a long time, I suggest replacing the battery first. If you still have the same problem then the fob seems to have a loose contact within the remote fob. Take apart the fob as you were to replace the battery and you will see two wires that are soldered. The solder has become dry and brittle and needs a new amount of solder to create a better contact. What is happening is contacts are too small to produce a far distance signal due to a less voltage transfer. This happens when the keys are dropped or the buttons are pushed too hard. If you need further assistance with your remote engine start, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing sounds like an ignition coil that may be failing. Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.

ANSWER : As you may know when jump starting the car, the battery power provided is being supplied form the other car you are using to jump your car with. If the car does not start following the jump, this would suggest your battery may be dead and needs to be replaced. If the battery was last replaced in 9/2012, it is most likely time for a new battery as that is a decent amount of life for a battery.

ANSWER : Hi there:

The symptoms you’re describing are often an indicator that a problem exists with the alternator or charging system such as an electrical relay. Before you spend another penny trying to chase the symptoms by purchasing more parts, it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a battery does not hold a charge inspection. This service will allow them to correctly diagnose your Honda Accords issues.

ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : It sounds like your starting issues may be linked to a problem with air metering or fuel delivery. A clogged or malfunctioning idle air control valve may show some of the same symptoms you are describing. The idle air control valve can be stuck in a cold start position which may work well if the car has been sitting a few hours, but as the engine warms up there must be a regulation in airflow. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at your hard start situation and offer a more personal diagnosis.