Brake noise. Lost all brakes while backing up

Rear new breaks were replaced. Went to back up after they were put on, made a noise and I lost all breaks. What went wrong??

My car has 185000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

One of the first things to check is the brakes` wear tabs that are situated on the edge of the brake tabs of your car. They help when bringing your car to a stop, but if the brakes are getting worn these wear tabs will rub against the rotor and produce the squealing sound.
The rattle sound is usually caused by loose or worn parts like brake anti-rattle clips, caliper slide pins, or shims. Another result of worn-down hardware is increased pressure on your pads. This leads to greater pressure on your rotors, overheating, vibrating, and accelerated, uneven wear and tear.
One possible cause is debris or dirt stuck in the brakes, which can create friction and lead to a grinding noise. Another potential reason is a misalignment of the brake calipers, causing them to rub against the rotor instead of smoothly pressing against it.
Early on, it might sound like something is rubbing when you let off the brake pedal. Ignore that and you will eventually hear a metallic grinding, scraping, or rubbing sound that indicates metal-on-metal contact in your brake system. A less-common occurrence is the sound of a “clunk” when you hit the brake pedal.
If you hear this sound, it likely means you`ve worn out your brake pads to the point of exposing their metal backing plates, which are now rubbing against the metal of your brake rotors.
Excessive vibration is the leading cause of brake noise. While a certain amount of vibration is normal during braking, excessive vibration will cause abnormal brake noise.
When brake issues occur, they usually cause the following noises: Grinding. Squealing or squeaking. Clattering or rattling.
Caliper Rattling

If a piece of the caliper is loose or worn out, it can cause a rattling noise.

1. Abnormal Noise. In many cases, a sticking brake caliper can be easily identified by the abnormal sounds that it produces. This most notably includes grinding and scraping noises that result from rapid or abnormal brake pad wear.
If your rotors are faulty, they may produce a squeaking, squealing, or grinding sound when you apply the brakes. Warped rotors usually emit a high-pitched squeak, while severely worn rotors tend to make a scraping noise.
Grinding noises can appear when the brake friction material or brake linings have worn away and the steel brake rotor is rubbing against the metal brake pad backing. This causes metal-to-metal contact when the brakes are applied, creating a grinding noise.
Clean the surface of the hub. Replace the brake disc and check that brake pads, shims and accessories are fitted correctly. Consider damping the noise with shims or brake pads that have anti-noise features.
In the Car: With the brake system bled, pump the brakes a few times and hold. The brake pedal should be firm. If the brake pedal is spongy, this could indicate air remaining in the lines or a mechanical problem, such as a sticking brake caliper slider.
Incorrect Adjustments Or Missing Brake Hardware. You could experience a vibration or hear annoying brake sounds if some brake system components — like the anti-rattle clips, anti-rattle shims, and brake lining — are missing or not correctly adjusted.
Squeaking sounds could just mean you`ve got cheap brake pads or hot brakes, or they could be a sign of a bigger problem. Brakes that are overheating can cause a light squeaking, especially when the brakes are still cold. But if your brakes are consistently squealing, you should get them inspected.
It`s imperative to replace brake pads as soon as the wear indicator begins making a noise to avoid more serious problems. Other issues that can cause brakes to squeal include glazing; a crystallization of the pad surface than can occur due to excessive heat caused by slamming on the brakes.
It`s imperative to replace brake pads as soon as the wear indicator begins making a noise to avoid more serious problems. Other issues that can cause brakes to squeal include glazing; a crystallization of the pad surface than can occur due to excessive heat caused by slamming on the brakes.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.

EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.

Car making popping noise when braking.
ANSWER : After seeing the video, you will need to have the lower ball joints and bushings checked to see if one or all need to be replaced. You should also have the exhaust checked to see why the engine is so loud. A professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, will be able to thoroughly conduct tests to diagnose your vehicle’s popping noise and make the appropriate repairs.

Horrible grinding sound after recently replaced front and back brakes and rotors.
ANSWER : Hi there. Were there shims installed on the old pads? New shims on the new pads? Missing shims can create noise while braking which is why the antiseize worked for a short time. What brand/level of brake pads did your husband install? Usually, the lowest priced pads are the noisiest. The antisieze that he installed is not recommended to be put on brake components as the high temperatures of these parts can cause the lubricant to run and contaminate the pads and rotors. There are specifically designed brake pad shim lubricants designed to withstand these high temperatures; these are the only ones that should be used if needed. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts and a possible safety concern. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brakes are making a noise inspection.

Replaced calipers and brake shoes. Bled the brakes and loose clutch. Get clutch back and loose brake pressure. Why?
ANSWER : Hello. The symptoms you are describing are very unusual. The clutch and brake hydraulic systems on your vehicle are separate, and should function completely independently of each other. The brake master cylinder uses a completely different set of lines than the clutch master cylinder does. I would try carefully bleeding both systems once more, just to be sure that there is no air in either system.

If both are bled properly, I would then move on to making sure that none of the components of either system are leaking. Leaks at the master or slave cylinders, or at any of the calipers or wheel cylinders will cause the systems to lose pressure. If the problem persists, I would then consider the possibility of a defective master cylinder.

Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

new brakes squeak while moving, but noise stops when applying breaking pressure
ANSWER : Hi there. First off, you have my favorite year of Corvette – the 62’ is awesome! Second, the brake squeaking issue is likely due to excessive brake dust collected in between the rotor and the pad or perhaps a wheel bearing that is starting to show early signs of normal wear and tear. It’s also possible that the pad is lightly dragging on the rotor. This can be caused by excessive brake pressure or a caliper or brake booster that is not working correctly. The best thing to do is spray off the front wheels and behind the wheel first, to knock off any excessive brake dust to see the noise goes away on it’s own. If it does not or the noise is progressively getting worse, have a professional mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection, so they can try and replicate the noise and pinpoint it’s source, so the right repairs can be made.

Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
ANSWER : It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.