Brake lines have air, bled many times

ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. If the brake pedal is going to the floor then that means that it is not building pressure. If the brake system has been fully bled and there is no air in it then most of the time it is a bad master cylinder or it can be caused by a bad ABS module. If the brake fluid was low and if air got into the system then the only way to properly bleed it is with a scan tool that would allow you to open and close the valves in the ABS unit. Air gets trapped in these easily if the brake fluid gets low. This can also explain why the brakes are locking up. I would usually use my scan tool to bleed the system out first before going any further. I would also scan the brake control module to see what it is reading as a fault. If there is no air in the system and if there is no prominent code then I would replace the master cylinder first. If you want to check out why your brakes are locking up, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this.

ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. Moisture in the brake fluid is being boiled off as steam when your brake system temperature gets above 212 degrees (at sea level). The steam re-condenses as water in the system BUT air pockets can be created and remain inside. You might need to bleed the system with new fluid quite a few times to be sure all moisture is removed. Be sure to keep fluid level in the reservoir is at "full" level when done.

ANSWER : Hi there. Typically when you experience braking issues as you’ve described shortly after replacing pads and rear shoes, the problem is typically caused by a brake caliper or master cylinder problem. However, it could also be due to an installation failure as well. When you put your pad on, you have to push back the brake calipers. When you pushed back the calipers, did you open the bleeder when you did? If you did not, all the fluid were pushed back toward the brake master cylinder and you have to pump up your brakes. When this is done, you should of only used short strokes on the brake pedal and not cycle it to the floor, up and down, until the pedal gets hard.
This may have caused the master cylinder to get a torn internal piston cup. A certified mechanic will have to flush out the master cylinder and brake system and if that does not fix it then the master cylinder will have to be replaced.

ANSWER : All four wheels have to be bled starting with the right rear, then left rear, right front, and left front. Inasmuch as air may be trapped as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw, you have to have a relatively fast, and substantial (in volume) flow of brake fluid during bleeding to expel all air from the system. Generally, 5 to 10 PSI on a pressure system is sufficient. 20 PSI is not necessary. You should use a power bleeder, they are not very expensive for a simple one. If you car is equipped with ABS and/or electronic stability control, you will need a VAG 1551, VAG 1552, or equivalent bi-directional scan tool that is capable of activating the ABS/ESC pump. Activation is necessary to expel air from the ABS components of the system. If you would like to have this checked, a qualified professional from YourMechanic can come to your location to inspect the spongy brake issue and let you know what needs repair.

ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.

ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.