A "No Buss" signal appeared on the dash of my 2006 Dodge Stratus

ANSWER : Hi there. Your vehicle has lost the communication buss; the line that all the computers communicate on. This buss originates in the body computer in most dodge vehicles of this year. Check all fuses, including the fusible links in the engine compartment and replace as necessary. After performing the fuse check, I strongly suggest you acquire a qualified technician to perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. YourMechanic has several available technicians who can assist you with an electrical problems inspection.

ANSWER : Hi there. The motor mounts are identical for the 2002 and 2006, however; you are most likely going to have difficulty with ECU compatibility. Each engine has unique attributes and there are different sensors, electrical connections and fuel system connections that might also cause difficulty. If you’re thinking about doing this, make sure you verify with a Dodge dealership whether or not they can reprogram your ECU to link with the new engine; as many car owners have issues with this as well.

ANSWER : Hello – you have electrical problems for sure, possibly more than one. A short in the steering column wiring seems likely. This problem can be diagnosed by connecting an ammeter to the positive (red) battery cable, observe the current drain (likely less than 1 amp), then, one at a time, remove each fuse, check to see if the current drain has dropped to near 0, then reinsert the fuse. start with the brake/turn signal lighting circuit. This process should identify the faulty circuit in most cases. The specific components on that circuit can then be checked for current drain problems. A professional mechanic, like YourMechanic, can come to your location, and perform this procedure for you, and replace/repair the failing component.

ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like you have a failed alternator. The alternator is used to maintain the battery charge and provide electrical support to the electrical system. Its output can vary depending on the electrical load placed on the system; ac, blower motor, headlights, etc. Have the alternator tested at idle and under load to determine if the voltage/amps are not within specifications; replace as necessary. Also have the battery tested with a digital battery tester that provides current voltage, cold cranking amps, and state of health. Replace the battery if needed. If the battery tests ok, then recharge the battery before starting the car with the new alternator. Not having a fully charged battery can present an undue load on the new alternator’s internal voltage regulator and shorten the life of the new alternator. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several technicians available that can assist you with an electrical problems inspection.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in.

It sounds like you are having a serious electrical malfunction, which is very hard to diagnose without being able to look at the car first hand. The first step to diagnosing your electrical issue would be to scan all the relevant control modules in the vehicle, to see if there are any faults relating to any of these issues. It sounds like somebody at the dealer has been trying to fix this problem, so it may be a more involved one. I have personally seen failed control modules cause things like this, but that is no guarantee that it’s the problem in your case. It would be best to have a qualified independent technician, such as one from YourMechanic, look at your car to diagnose your electrical problem.

ANSWER : Hello – yes, the basic engine is fundamentally the same: and has the same transmission bellhousing shape and pattern. You may need to do some swapping with oil pan and oil pickup, exhaust manifolds, intake, etc. in order to have all the right bits pointed in the right place for your Charger. You may have to take some extra steps to get the electronics (engine and transmission control units) happy if the transmissions are different from the donor vs your Charger. Should be do-able though. Good luck with it!

ANSWER : Hi there – if I understand your issue correctly, the speedometer is the failing component. Check fuses for the instrument cluster for blown fuses first, but most likely, the speedometer sensor (aka output speed sensor) on your transmission, or its wiring, is malfunctioning. If the problem is a lack of ignition (spark at the plugs) when starting, check first for problem codes, whether the Check Engine light is on or not. Most auto parts stores will do this for you for free on a "time-available" basis. A failed crankshaft position sensor can cause a "no start" condition without tripping a problem code. For additional assistance, I recommend a no start inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. Yes the flasher is most likely your issue. It is luckily a very simple fix. The lack of clicking noise, but supply of power, tells us that the flasher is stuck in the on position. The hardest part is accessing the flasher (which is not very difficult honestly), and removing it. It will be located under the dashboard, likely on the driver’s side. Then purchase the exact replacement that you need and reinstall it. The turn signals should work as good as new immediately after. Simply replace the flasher and everything should be back to normal.