When shifting, loud bang-type noise

After starting my car and I change gears from Park to Drive or into Reverse, there is a loud sound like a bang, thud, gun-shot type of noise. Sometimes I shift and nothing happens at all, so this is a random problem and not all the time. I found someone else with a similar problem and he said his issue was the motor mount. Could you please give my your professional experience and advice on what is causing this problem?
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. A faulty motor mount could cause this type of noise on your 2002 Mercedes Benz E430. Another thing to consider is a center driveshaft bearing assembly. It may shift upward in its housing if the rubber bearing mount has failed when shifted into gear. A failed transmission mount could also cause the same thing. The vehicle undercarriage will need to be inspected to determine the cause of the driveline clunk. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who has the tools and expertise to narrow down the driveline noise source and correct it.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If your transmission makes a grinding noise when you shift gears, you are likely experiencing friction between gears due to insufficient transmission fluid, worn transmission linkage, maladjusted binding, or a “dragging clutch.” If you hear grinding sounds when shifting from neutral to any gear, you may be dealing with …
If your transmission mount or engine mount becomes loose or breaks, you may hear clunking noises whenever you make a sudden change in speed or whenever you shift gears, due to the movement of the unsecure mount.
Beware a shake, jerk or grind

Automatic gearbox telltale signs include hesitation, slipping, or “trembling” during gear changes. Manuals are more likely to grind. Jerking and clunking noises are more likely to be caused by failing engine and transmission mounts.

A clunking noise when the brakes are used typically suggests wear and damage to various parts. It can be caused by a number of things from a seized brake caliper or an extremely loose wheel bearing to worn out ball joints or steering components.
An engine mount that needs replacing can often cause a jolt when changing gears on an attached transmission. This jolt or thump can also be noticeable when travelling at faster speeds due to the engine working harder. If your machine doesn`t feel as smooth as usual, this can often be down to a damaged engine mount.
One of the most common signs of a failing motor mount is what we call “impact noises” that you will hear coming from the engine bay. You may hear significant clunking, banging or rattling, and that means the engine could be loose at the point of one or more of the motor mounts.
My Gears Are Clunking, Clicking Or Rattling

If you`re hearing anything that could even possibly be one of these three, it`s time to call a mechanic. These noises usually mean that your gearbox or engine is on it`s way to failing, which can be catastrophic if you are driving at the time.

There are four sounds in particular that you should look out for: creaking, grunting, rattling, and knocking. See your auto collision center if you hear any of these noises, and keep reading for more on the four sounds of suspension problems.
Here are some of the potential causes for a clunking noise when going over bumps: Bad control arm bushings. Damaged ball joints. Worn out struts.
When a front CV axle goes bad, it will make a clunking noise as you make a slow turn. When a rear axle goes bad, the clunking or moaning sound will be in the back.
That clunking noise you hear from the front end of your car when driving over a bump can be telling of an issue with your car`s suspension. More specifically, the problem is with your control arms or suspension system struts. This damage can occur if you are off-road or roughly going over potholes.
Hello, Engine mounts and transmission mounts are distinctly different components, although they both serve to achieve the same purpose which is to prevent excessive vibration. Engine mounts are more substantial in nature as they are designed to absorb vibration more so than transmission mounts.
In addition to vibrations, a damaged mount also causes heavy jerks and jolts when you change gears, as the transmission too is attached to the engine unit. This jerk can be noticed at higher speeds, or simply when you change gears.
these noises can include thumping, clunking, rattling and clanging. if you hear suspicious noises, see your mechanic right away. 2. excessive engine vibrations: as the soft parts of the motor mounts wear out, they lose their ability to both absorb vibrations and keep the engine stable.
Typically, one motor mount fails before the others. As an engine revs, it wants to rotate in the same direction as the crankshaft. That tends to stretch one motor mount and compress the others. Usually, the mount that stretches is the one that fails first, Mazor said.
Mounts can be visually inspected for cracked, loose or broken brackets, loose or missing bolts, collapsed rubber or fluid leaks (hydro-mounts). A pry bar can be used to check for separated or broken mounts.
1. At the top of all auto repair experts lists for causes of problematic transmissions is low transmission fluid. Usually caused by a leak somewhere in the system, low or contaminated fluid makes it nearly impossible for the transmission to automatically shift gears and run smoothly.
Transmission Fluid Low or Poor Condition – Vehicles low on transmission fluid or that are operating with worn out or contaminated fluid are likely to experience hard shift conditions. Lack of adequate lubrication within the transmission can cause several problems, including hard shifting.
The first indication of any trouble with suspension will probably come from an unusual noise. There`ll be a knocking, creaking or clanking from under the car. In extreme cases, your car might not want to drive in a straight line without you constantly making adjustments with the steering wheel.
The painless noise in your joints or ligaments is both common and quite normal. The synovial fluid lubricates and protects the joints. Over time, gases can build up in these areas which are released when the joint is being used. Thus, the pops and cracks.
As the damage worsens, a faulty CV can produce a loud click, popping, or clunk sound. When making a tight turn at a low rate, frequent brake noise at low speed (caused by damage to the outer CV joints) causes grinding noises. A bad CV joint also causes a vibration in the steering wheel and the car`s floorboard.
When the CV joint becomes damaged or worn, you may hear a clicking, clunking or popping sound coming from this area as the weight of the vehicle puts pressure on this area and shifts back and forth and side to side.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Chattering noises coming from transmission
ANSWER : Hello. From the symptoms you’ve described it would appear to me that there may be an issue with the clutch disc or perhaps flywheel.

If the contact surfaces of either are excessively worn it may cause intermittent chatter, as you are experiencing. If the clutch is still the original one than it may need to be replaced.

If you’d like a second opinion on this or would like to get this fixed, consider getting some help from a qualified mechanic who can diagnose the noise your car is making. Once this assessment is made an accurate repair can then performed.

It’s making a loud rattling like noise when I’m shifting out 2012 Chevrolet Cruze
ANSWER : Hello – the "rattling noise" you describe could be coming from several components – driven by engine vibration, or by worn bearings in the transmission. Vibration can also cause unrelated components bolted to the engine or chassis itself to rattle. Identifying when the rattle occurs will help diagnose the issue: when the engine is running, whether the car is moving or not, only at higher RPMs, only while shifting gears, only in lower gears(also known as "gear rattle"), etc. I recommend a vehicle noise inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

Transmission issues, rough shifting and noise
ANSWER : Many different faults can cause the vehicle to shift roughly. The most common would be low fluid level in the transmission, transmission mounts, the torque converter, or one of the shift solenoids. If you’d like to get this checked before moving forward with a repair, a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, will be able to diagnose your shifting issue and perform any repairs required.

air conditioner started making loud screeching noise and started only blowing hot air, then the noise stopped but still only blows
ANSWER : The noise is possibly from a failed compressor clutch or the compressor itself is faulty. Another possibility is the pulley bearing on the front of the compressor has failed. The issue should be fairly evident to the inspecting mechanic after some simple tests. To resolve this, the recommended diagnostic is an a/c system inspection. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

air conditioner works on 2002 honda odyssey however makes an extremely loud noise local mechanic took out a fuse the noise stopped
ANSWER : Hi there. Thanks for writing into YourMechanic.com. It is quite possible that the AC compressor is the source of the loud noise you are hearing with your Honda Odyssey. Typically when the compressor begins to fail, it’s an inner bearing that is essentially grinding that causes the noise. If you would like to receive a price estimate to have one of our mobile mechanics come to your location and complete the AC compressor replacement, please click this link, then click the Get a Quote blue button. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you a quote. Thanks!

The car makes loud shaking/jarring noise when the steering wheel is only slight turned rightward. There is no noise when turning left.
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, the noise you are hearing from the rear of the vehicle and the feeling your vehicle has while driving, should be looked at sooner than later. The swaying (fish-tail) action, could be a broken sway bar. It could also be a broken shock absorber. These are safety concerns that you’ll want to have addressed soon. I recommend having your vehicle’s noise inspected and repaired by a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.

Replaced water pump (no noise before just leaky) now there’s loud humming noise and I don’t have heat. Haven’t tried driving yet.
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, you replacing the water pump and now you have a new noise and no heat, are an combination of things going on. First, the loud humming noise coming from the water pump/timing area concerns me. Assuming, you followed the repair procedure properly for the water pump replacement. It could be, the replacement water pump is faulty. Something is amiss and needs to be corrected before you go out and drive your vehicle. The noise could result into a catastrophic and an expensive repair. Second, no heat could be, there is air trapped in the heater core and needs to be bled and/or flushed. I recommend having your vehicle’s no heat and humming noise be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

Whining noise from transmission and difficulty in shifting
ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear that your vehicle has developed some sort of issue with the transmission, perhaps related to the hydraulic system, or with the transmission gears. If there is an issue with the vehicle’s hydraulic clutch system it may cause problems such as grinding or popping when putting the transmission into gear. The components to look at there would be the clutch master and slave cylinders. If the clutch appears to be engaging and disengaging properly then it may be possible that the issue is with the transmission, perhaps in the form of a bad throw out bearing, or worn transmission gears. Both of these could also cause a whining noise as well as difficulty changing gears if a problem occurs. I would also check the fluid levels for both the transmission and hydraulic clutch systems, as that could also cause similar symptoms. If you are unsure I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to diagnose what may be causing your transmission issues.