What is wrong with my fuel system?

My truck keeps burning through fuel pumps the last one I put on there lasted 2 weeks and I only drove my truck 3 times I dropped the tank and cleaned it before the last 2 fuel pumps and still it burned up.

My car has 280000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. Since you are having lots of fuel pumps fail, check the lines to the fuel injectors and also check the fuel injectors them selves. There is a pressure build up on one or more lines causing the pump to exceed its pressure limit. If the injectors are cleaned out and the lines are cleaned out and there is still a pressure build up, then I recommend putting in new injectors. You may have to go to a more performance injector to relieve the access pressure. If you need further assistance with your vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you with your fuel pumps failure.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

Allegedly, the fuel injection pump in affected vehicles appears to have a fragile and unstable design that allows metal components to rub against each other. The metal shavings this produces can contaminate the fuel system in affected vehicles, which can result in premature wear and engine failure.
A common problem is with the Injection Pressure Regulator Valve or IPR. These electromagnetic valves regulate oil pressure going to the fuel injectors in an HEUI system. They tailor individual injector sprays based on the engine`s needs. Seals can get damaged or worn out, causing them to stick.
A bad fuel pump may overheat and inadequately deliver gas to the engine, causing it to run hot and turn off while on the road. In this scenario, your vehicle may start back up after overheating and shutting down, only to do the same thing a half-hour later. This scenario is a common sign of a bad fuel pump.
The 7.3L utilizes Hydraulically actuated Electronically controlled Unit Injectors, commonly referred to as HEUI or “HUEY” injectors. These injectors utilize high pressure oil which is controlled by a poppet valve inside the injector to achieve injection pressures of up to 21,000 psi.
The 1994 – early 1999 model year 7.3L Power Stroke diesels (all “OBS” trucks and early Super Duty) utilize a two stage, camshaft driven mechanical fuel pump. A lobe on the camshaft operates a plunger protruding from the bottom of the fuel pump and through the engine valley.
This truck will do 100mph with ease. You will never have any problems as long as you do the regular maintinance. The 7.3L Powerstoke Turbo Diesel engine is definately the best engine Ford ever built. The 6.0L Diesel does not even come close.
7.3 Powerstroke Bosch 69136 Fuel Pump Replacement. The 7.3 stock fuel pump is located on the driver`s side frame rail. This replacement pump is the same pump that comes on your truck from the factory. To test your fuel pump is to simply test the truck`s fuel pressure.
Also known as the high-pressure oil supply pump, the high-pressure oil pump (HPOP) employed on the 7.3L Power Stroke is charged with providing adequate oil volume to operate the injectors.
The reading should be 60-65 psi.
A major cause for fuel injection pump problems is the use of dirty fuel. Over time, residue builds up throughout your system. Using poor-quality fuel exacerbates this issue. Bring your vehicle in for auto repair if you notice sputtering or your vehicle hesitates when accelerating.
Why Is the CP4 Pump Allegedly Failing? The primary reason the CP4 pump is said to fail is because the pump was not designed for diesel fuel in the United States. Bosch is a European company, and Europe uses diesel fuel with more sulfur than U.S. diesel fuel.
Since the CP4 uses fuel as a lubricant, the lack of adequate lubrication can increase the amount of friction on the internal metal parts such as the drive cam and roller lifters. As a result, small metal particles or shavings begin to get distributed throughout the fuel system and can end in catastrophic failure.
This can be caused by debris within the fuel & not having a strainer or filter fitted to the pump. If there is a strainer, ensure it`s clear; clean & remove debris as necessary, & inspect the strainer seal. Check electrical connections & check your the supply is providing the correct voltage to the pump.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a 1981 e-350 with dual fuel tanks the p.o. added a third tank and 3 electric fuel pumps along with sepparate gauges and swi
ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hello,
You may want to try checking the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your ECU actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. If the wires all have power running through them, then it is likely you have a faulty relay. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your wiring as this can be very difficult and time consuming without the proper wiring diagram.

Just replaced my fuel pump but its not getting any power tested fuel pump relay and fuel fuse both good tested the wires all good.
ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

Fuel Rail System Error Code
ANSWER : Considering that the code is related to a problem in the fuel system, you should leave it to the professionals to avoid personal injury. When fueling the car, check twice to make sure the fuel cap is fastened properly. Low fuel pressure from a clogged filter can hinder the performance of the pump and damage it in extreme cases. You may want to have a second technician inspect the loss of power and hesitation to get a second opinion on the car before following through with the repair. If you would like this checked, a technician from YourMechanic can come to your location to diagnose the cause of the Check Engine Light and assess the needed repairs.

the car is acting like its getting to much fuel. changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the fuel pump relay.
ANSWER : There could be a few things contributing to your problem. You are correct that clogged or sticking fuel injectors and possibly the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. A plugged catalytic converter can also cause the vehicle to bog down. A failing throttle position sensor can cause the symptoms you describe as well. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.com, do a few tests to determine the exact cause of your starting concern.

I have a truck that won’t run and is not getting gas to the engine. Fuel pump is running, have a new filter and new fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a clogged fuel injector or potentially a faulty injector that is fried internally. I would suggest testing them if you have access to a multi meter. Disconnect the injector from the electrical connector and set your multi meter to Ohms mode and measure the resistance of the injector. After testing all injectors, compare the resistance. They should be the same or very close. If they are not, they will likely need to be replaced.

Installed new delphi fuel pump and fram fuel filter. still no pressure on fuel rail valve and wont start. 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe
ANSWER : Hi there – I suspect you have weak power getting to the fuel pump. I would first check the voltage coming out of the fuel pump relay. If the contacts in the relay are burned, you will not get reliable current flow to the pump. Check the fuel pump ground as well (voltage drop across the ground, not just continuity). I recommend a fuel system inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

How long and what is the process to replace a fuel pressure sensor?
ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.