Trying to put a Duramax engine in
My car has an automatic transmission.
The cost of this sort of project will quickly add up. Unless you have some strong sentimental value with this rig, you will be able to purchase a newer truck for the same cost. The only exception to this is if you are doing the entire project yourself, which will take many hours of searching for answers, parts and time working on the truck. It is a very big project that should not be taken lightly.
There are two good sources for the purchase of a Duramax engine. A wrecking yard or the manufacturer. As I stated before, it is going to take a lot more than just the motor. To be completely honest, you will have to make the motor fit, nothing is going to fit directly. If you would like to have an expert fully inspect the car in person, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the vehicle and advice you on the best actions to take next.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Relevant Questions and Answers :
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Since this fault has lasted after the engine was replaced it could be a oil pressure sensor, wiring harness fault, ECU fault, oil pump, oil strainer clogged, or low oil pressure.
To diagnose this issue properly you need a complete vehicle inspection to start from square one and identify the root cause of all this.
What you are describing sounds like an ignition coil pack that may be failing. Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.
If you need some help with these checks, consider YourMechanic, as a certified technician can come to your home and diagnose the cause of your stalling issue firsthand. Best of luck.
Before condemning the MAF, make sure there isn’t any unmetered air entering the motor after the MAF. This will confuse the PCM and things just won’t work correctly. Unmetered air is what we call it when there is a leak between the MAF and the throttle body.
Of course, make sure the MAF has been plugged in. If it is, disconnect the connector and inspect the pins. It is fairly common for the small electrical pins in all sensors to get bent over when reconnecting their connector.
It is very easy to damage sensors in the area of the throttle body when cleaning it. Carburetor cleaner can damage sensors. The one I am particularly worried about is the IAC valve. These can stick and cause many different idle control issues.
If this isn’t of any help to you, I recommend having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose your stalling condition for an accurate repair.
It sounds like you may have a couple of separate issues going on here. The idling problem may suggest you have a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer and will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. This is also an important function when starting the motor as it allows the motor to run and idle on it’s own once the motor fires. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed while adjusting the air/fuel ratio constantly to allow this to happen smoothly. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve.
Blue smoke coming from your exhaust generally means that the motor is burning the engine oil. This can happen for a couple of different reasons such as worn piston rings or leaking valve guide seals. When this happens, the engine oil is burned in the combustion chamber along with the fuel which is what generates the blue smoke coming from the exhaust. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.