TC light on and car shutting down
The TC light is on. The car is also shutting down.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. I believe the light you are referring to is the traction control light (TC). The electronic brake control module (EBC) in your car monitors the speed of all four wheels via speed sensors. It then uses this information to determine when and where to apply the brakes in a low traction situation. If the EBC senses a problem in the system it will illuminate the TC warning light. The most common point of failure is the wheel speed sensor or reluctor ring. As the teeth of the reluctor ring pass by the magnetic wheel speed sensor, AC current is generated. The EBC then uses this information for anti-lock brake (ABS) and TC operation.
Your vehicle shutting down is likely unrelated, unless you have a problem with the charging system. Improper voltage caused by a failed alternator or battery can cause all kinds of havoc with onboard electronics, such as the EBC module. I suggest you have a trained mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose your vehicle’s shutting down issue to make sure what is causing the problem.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Best Answer. tcs – traction control system. If it`s on constantly then there is an issue with the system that you will to have fixed. Sometimes if the car loses traction the TCS light will flash to let you know the system is kicking in to control the car.
ABS is malfunctioning: Traction control and ABS (anti-lock braking system) often share the same control module and internal self-diagnostics system. As a result, sometimes an issue in the ABS can trigger the traction control light. If this is the case, then both the ABS and Traction Control lights will be on.
Because the ABS and traction control often share the same module, a problem with one mechanism might be indicated by a light for both. If the brake system is malfunctioning, the traction control light might come on as a result. The light for your ABS might also come on if the brake fluid is low.
Common reasons for this to happen:
Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine.
Is it Safe to Drive with the TCS Light On? It is only safe to drive with the TCS light on if it appears when you are losing traction: it means the system is engaging. Driving without traction control can make your vehicle susceptible to spinning out and sliding around on the road.
Driving with the TCS light on
Failure in the TCS can hamper your wheels from properly spinning and cause you to lose control over the vehicle on slippery roads, which harms your tires` surface, engine performance and raises the risk of accidents.
Wheel speed sensors malfunction
A malfunctioning wheel speed sensor is by far the most prevalent cause of traction control issues in cars. Every wheel on your car contains a sensor that communicates to the ECM how fast it is spinning.
In some cases, the warning light may come on because wheel-speed sensors are covered with road grime or debris. When the traction control warning light stays on, that means you aren`t getting any help from the system to control traction and the system needs to be checked.
If the traction control light won`t turn off, there can be some reasons. One reason could be that the fuse for the traction control system has blown. Or it could be that there is a problem with the traction control sensors causing the light to stay on.
Press the gas pedal 3 times in quick succession. Then, turn your engine on all the way and let it run for a minute. The TCS and ABS lights should reset and go away if there isn`t any underlying problem with your traction control system.
When turned off, you may notice that your vehicle handles differently than you are used to when driving on slippery surfaces. This is why you should leave your traction control on at all times.
When your engine shuts off when you slow the car down its often as a result of a: Malfunctioning transmission. Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump. Bad oxygen sensor or mass flow sensor.
When turned off, you may notice that your vehicle handles differently than you are used to when driving on slippery surfaces. This is why you should leave your traction control on at all times.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My car stalls at times, yesterday the car shut off at a red light. I turned car off then back on now engine light is on.
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your idle air control valve.
Abs light, emergency brake light, steering wheel assist light, engine light, EPC light, traction control light
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle does utilize a lot of the same sensors for these systems. Are there any other codes that are coming up when this code appears? If so you will want to take these into consideration when processing the repair and making a diagnosis. The module may be bad, and replacing it should fix the problem. The lights should turn off once the main computer recognizes the new module and the sensors sync up. If you believe the sensors need to be cleaned you may do so. Do as minimal as possible to make sure you are not damaging the sensor or disrupting the wiring inside. A bad connection would make the lights stay on. With so many lights that are effected by the module being illuminated, the module is likely bad or does not have a connection. Check the connection first and then resort to replacing the unit. For more help with these electrical tests, contact our service department.
Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car runs for about 30 minutes then when I come to a stop the oil and battery light turned on and car shuts off what could it be
ANSWER : Hi There,
It is normal for the oil and battery lights to come on when the car stalls. When the engine is not running and the key is in the ON position, you will see these lights light up as the car’s computer prepares itself to operate by running through a series of checks. The stalling and then re-starting after the vehicle has a chance to cool is likely related to a faulty ignition coil. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly. The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This type of temperature cycling happens because every time you shut the engine off, the fan stops running, the coolant stops flowing and the temperature under the hood rises. Every time you start the engine again the coolant flows, the fans turn on, and the temperature drops. When this heat dissipates and is absorbed under the hood, it is trapped causing this cycling effect. Other components that contain heat sensitive materials include parts like fuel injectors, igniters, and some sensors. Any of these may be potentially subject to this same kind of heat cycling problem which can be very difficult to trace. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your vehicle.
3 warning lights on, power steering, VMS, and electronic lights. Any clue?
ANSWER : The fact that these lights are on is a warning to the driver that there are fault codes stored because one of more control systems have detected a problem. The vehicle will have to be read with a code scanner to retrieve the codes and move on with the diagnosis from there. The problem can be as simple as a blown fuse, however something caused the fused to blow so that will need to be tracked down. I do not have your model of Honda so it will be a little difficult to offer suggestions. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at the warning lights and offer a more personal diagnosis.
Low coolant light comes on when AC, defrost or heater is on, but only if the car is in gear and stopped, what’s wrong with my car?
ANSWER : First, you want to make sure your cooling system is full. Check the radiator not the coolant jug. And check it when it is cold. If it needs coolant, add some. Of course, I don’t feel this problem is an actual low coolant condition. I would expect to find an electrical failure in the instrument cluster or from a component or wiring harness that is connected to the instrument cluster.
As a technician, I have access to reports from technicians across the country. I could not find any reports of this problem, so diagnosing this will require an experienced tech as this is not a common problem. In addition, this happens at intermittent times making it difficult to recreate. The most challenging part of this diagnosis will be recreating the symptom. I suspect it has something to do with the brake switch circuitry because it only seems to happen when you have your foot on the brake. I would begin my diagnosis there with a wiring diagram and test light in hand. The brake switch, instrument cluster, and environmental controls all interact with each other. Something is crossed either because of a failed module or damaged wiring in a harness.
Aside from making sure the coolant is full, this will not likely leave you on the side of the road. If you take it in to be diagnosed, be prepared for them to spend more time than usual to figure it out. Since it isn’t a key problem, you may need to live with it until it completely fails making it much easier to diagnose. Either way, I do recommend having a certified mechanic diagnose the warning light to make sure there isn’t anything serious going on.
Good luck.
2012 equinox reduced power light engine light and traction light came on. Lost a lot of power got home and all light except engine
ANSWER : Your car has what is called a "safe mode" that will be engaged by the computer when it detects that something critical has gone wrong related to any of the major components in your engine chassis or power train. This may be related to a number of things, most of which should have been registered in the computer when the check engine light came on. I recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to inspect your check engine light and diagnose any codes registered by your vehicle’s computer.
