hi, ive got a corsa 1.3cdti 2009 and it wont turn over at all. ive replaced the starter motor, checked all the relevant fuses, theres an audible click when I turn the ignition from the starter relay, battery is fine and earth connections are on. glow plug light works as it should. any ideas
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Hello there, many common faults will cause your 2009 Corsa to not start. You have done well in replacing the starter motor as this is a common failure point. The first place to start is to have the battery load tested, as it may have enough power to crank the engine but not actually start. If the battery passes the load test other possible faults are the ignition switch, fuel filter, battery cable, wiring harness fault, or a battery terminal. If you would like to have this checked, a qualified technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting issue and guide you with any needed repairs.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The most common reason for that rapid clicking noise when your car fails to start is a dead battery. However, a single click could mean a malfunctioning starter motor, or something even more ominous.
Simultaneously push down on the brake pedal and push the Start/ Stop button in located on the dashboard behind the steering wheel to the left-hand side to start the vehicle. A green READY to drive light will illuminate in the dashboard indicating the vehicle is good to go.
Your battery sends power to the starter to get your vehicle running. Your car`s battery has three responsibilities: Powering your lights, radio, and other vehicle components when your engine is off.
Either the sparkplugs ( as in not sparking correctly or it`s a faulty crankshaft sensor) or no fuel is getting to the engin ( as in the petrol pump is faulty or the fuel relay is blown).
It might be a battery or alternator problem.
A rapid clicking noise when trying to start your car could mean there`s something wrong within the electrical system. Perhaps your battery`s dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn`t working correctly.
If you don`t hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn`t crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner`s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.
Possible causes of a power failure could be either bad battery connections, a bad ignition switch, or a bad alternator. What you need to do is check your vehicle`s power sources.
When your engine cranks but won`t start or run, it could mean your engine is having trouble producing a spark, getting fuel, or creating compression. The most common causes are problems in the ignition (for example, a bad ignition coil) or fuel system (for example, a clogged fuel filter).
Limp mode is a car security feature that activates when a fault is detected, reducing speed and switching off non-essential functions. It is triggered by abnormal signals from car components, such as faulty sensors, transmission issues, or low fluid levels.
The fuel supply is automatically cut off during overrun, i.e. when the vehicle is driven with a gear engaged but accelerator pedal is released. Depending on driving conditions, the overrun cut-off may be deactivated. The stop-start system helps to save fuel and to reduce the exhaust emissions.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
ANSWER : It really depends on what type, year, make, and model of van you have. In many cases with vans newer than 1996, if the throttle position sensor was faulty and triggered a Check Engine Light, the error codes stored in the ECM need to be cleared before the vehicle is restarted; otherwise, it may cause difficulty starting.
The best option for you is to contact a local mechanic and have them reset the Check Engine Light or error codes to see if that clears up your issue.
Why does my car struggle to start every 4th to 5th time?
ANSWER : It sounds like your starting issues may be linked to a problem with air metering or fuel delivery. A clogged or malfunctioning idle air control valve may show some of the same symptoms you are describing. The idle air control valve can be stuck in a cold start position which may work well if the car has been sitting a few hours, but as the engine warms up there must be a regulation in airflow. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at your hard start situation and offer a more personal diagnosis.
Cranks over start than dies
ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX and I’m having an issue with the car not having power to the dash at all and doesn’t start.
ANSWER : Hi there:
The symptoms you’re describing are often an indicator that a problem exists with the alternator or charging system such as an electrical relay. Before you spend another penny trying to chase the symptoms by purchasing more parts, it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a battery does not hold a charge inspection. This service will allow them to correctly diagnose your Honda Accords issues.
Car was sometimes not starting, not even cranking when i turned the key then after a few times itd start. Now it ont start at all
ANSWER : Hi there:
Without being there to inspect your vehicle, or having information about what type of car, truck or SUV you own, it’s very hard for us to give you some advice. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection; so they can come to your location and determine why your vehicle is having these issues.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.