Stalling after fueling

Hi. The car was stalling after fueling, check engine light came on. Mechanic replaced O2 sensor, and within 2 days we had the same problem. We've returned it and he says the code was for the sensor before, and is now for the solenoid. Also that cars this age can throw a code, but not another one until after the repair. So, it won't tell you everything at once. I find it hard to believe that we have the exact same problem we did before, but now it's a different problem. In addition, I've looked up the problem online and with the symptoms I'm having it says it is a fuel valve
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Without having inspected the vehicle myself, I can say it is possible the code for a faulty O2 sensor may have been present,either due to the sensor being faulty itself, or registering incorrect readings due to the following. It is possible the fuel tank purge valve or charcoal canister may be at fault. When filling the fuel tank, vapors within the tank must be "purged" in order for the liquid gasoline to fill the tank. These vapors are then stored in the purge system and vented forward to the engine to be burned away when the vehicle is started.. Sometimes due to age, the purge valve or charcoal canister can allow liquid gasoline into the purge system. This can deteriorate the charcoal over time and allow it to break apart. If this happens, liquid gasoline will vent forward to the engine instead of, or along with fuel vapors.. Adding this "extra" gasoline to the engine when trying to start is can cause a hard start or even stalling until that extra fuel has burned away. Here are some common symptoms of a failure in the purge system.

Have a certified technician look into the stalling to isolate the exact cause.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most common reasons a Hyundai Santa Fe engine stalling are the fuel system, the air intake system, or the ignition system. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
If your car struggles to start after putting gas in there might be a problem with the fuel system, likely with the purge valve. Sometimes, a little bit of dirt or debris gets into the system, making it difficult to start the car. Cleaning the fuel filter and checking the fuel pump can help.
Could be a multitude of problems. Fuel pump may be getting weak, fuel pressure regulator could be going bad, weak spark, some vehicles will not run right if you didn`t put the gas cap on tight. First check your gas cap. Make sure it`s on tight and not cross threaded.
If the torque converter is broken, or if there is a low fluid level in the transmission, the converter will not do its job, and the car will be unable to maintain power at low speeds, which causes the engine to shut off. A defective TCS or torque converter solenoid can also cause this issue.
Some of the most common sensors that lead to engine stalling include the mass airflow sensor (MAF), engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) and manifold absolute pressure sesnsor (MAP). The idle air control valve (IAC) and exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) are also well known for causing engine stalling.
Common reasons for this to happen:

Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine.

Bad Gas, What are the Symptoms? If you`ve inspected the gas cap, the problems you are having may be due to contaminated fuel. If a car, truck, or SUV has trouble starting, will not accelerate, or just is not running smoothly, then it`s possible you just have a contaminated tank of gas.
If your car is not accelerating, the first thing to check is the air filter. The air provided to the engine for the combustion process passes through an air filter, which catches all the impurities and debris present in the air. With continuous usage, the air filter gets clogged and doesn`t let air pass through it.
Damaged gas cap: A damaged gas cap is far and away the most common culprit for a gas cap that won`t click or tighten. Gas caps with damaged threading won`t be able to lock tightly into the gas tank. Sometimes you can see a crack or break in the gas cap, but often the damage is not visible.
Bad or Dirty Spark Plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the combustion chamber. If they are not working correctly or are dirty they don`t ignite the fuel cleanly and the car can misfire or sputter. The plugs will need to be replaced or cleaned.
Your car may have a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a 1981 e-350 with dual fuel tanks the p.o. added a third tank and 3 electric fuel pumps along with sepparate gauges and swi
ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

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Fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hello,
You may want to try checking the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your ECU actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. If the wires all have power running through them, then it is likely you have a faulty relay. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your wiring as this can be very difficult and time consuming without the proper wiring diagram.

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Just replaced my fuel pump but its not getting any power tested fuel pump relay and fuel fuse both good tested the wires all good.
ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

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How long and what is the process to replace a fuel pressure sensor?
ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.

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the car is acting like its getting to much fuel. changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the fuel pump relay.
ANSWER : There could be a few things contributing to your problem. You are correct that clogged or sticking fuel injectors and possibly the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. A plugged catalytic converter can also cause the vehicle to bog down. A failing throttle position sensor can cause the symptoms you describe as well. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.com, do a few tests to determine the exact cause of your starting concern.

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Installed new delphi fuel pump and fram fuel filter. still no pressure on fuel rail valve and wont start. 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe
ANSWER : Hi there – I suspect you have weak power getting to the fuel pump. I would first check the voltage coming out of the fuel pump relay. If the contacts in the relay are burned, you will not get reliable current flow to the pump. Check the fuel pump ground as well (voltage drop across the ground, not just continuity). I recommend a fuel system inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

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I have a truck that won’t run and is not getting gas to the engine. Fuel pump is running, have a new filter and new fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a clogged fuel injector or potentially a faulty injector that is fried internally. I would suggest testing them if you have access to a multi meter. Disconnect the injector from the electrical connector and set your multi meter to Ohms mode and measure the resistance of the injector. After testing all injectors, compare the resistance. They should be the same or very close. If they are not, they will likely need to be replaced.

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It stalls while driving, fuel pump has been replaced, checked fuel module…still stalls in middle of road
ANSWER : There are a huge amount of possible causes for your stalling problem. They include other fuel related components, ignition (spark) components, electrical components, or air intake components.

Do you know for a fact your technician scanned the computer for troubleshooting codes? This needs to be done. Has this happened all on one tank of gas? Although it is rare, a fouled tank of gas can cause these problems. Second to fuel is the ignition system. Make sure to check the spark plugs, coils, and distributor? These can also fail and cause these symptoms. The mass airflow sensor and air intake temperature sensors should be checked as well. A certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the stalling problem and pinpoint the needed repair.

Read Full Q/A … : Stalling after fueling