Sound at rear of the vehicle

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. There are several issues that may cause these issues. You will want to start by making sure the brakes are not sticking. This can be done by raising the vehicle and checking for grinding or rubbing. Secondly, check the tires to make sure they are properly balanced, have good tread, and are properly inflated. These are the most common causes or tire noise. However if the issue goes deeper, you may want to inspect the wheel hubs and suspension. If you have more reason to believe the convertible top is to blame, check the seals and the latches first. For more help with an inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : The noise sounds like the rear brake drum is warped which will cause the brakes to grab and release, causing the noise. Have the rear brakes checked and resurface or replace the drums. If you have rear rotors and disc pads then the problem is most likely the rear rotors are warped and need to be replaced.

ANSWER : Deficiencies of various types can cause lifter and valve train noise, including ticking noises. The bottom line is if the ticking noise did not exist at all prior to their work on the valve train, but occurred immediately at the conclusion of their work, logically that means that they did something wrong (typically that would be not following the repair instructions) and consequently it is their responsibility to get the problem repaired. As far as how to enforce your rights, that is a matter that is somewhat more complex than mechanical repairs and the specifics will depend on the state and locale you reside in. It also depends on your creativity and resoluteness. First of all, if you paid by credit card, simply dispute the transaction and follow the card issuer procedure. If that avenue is not available to you, and you are determined to be made whole, use a graduated approach. Explain to the shop that the noise simply did NOT exist, period, prior to the work and thus the simple application of logic means that (barring exceptional coincidences, of course) their work is the CAUSE of the problem; consequently, they will have to correct the problem. If they refuse to resolve it, send a certified letter demanding a refund (of course, a mere refund may not be sufficient to make you whole, if the cost to re-do the job is more than the refund). If you do not receive a refund by a date certain, file complaints with the Attorney General’s office, the BBB, and any state licensing agencies that have jurisdiction over the conduct of the business. If in the course of this you desire a second opinion, you can request an engine noise diagnostic from a YourMechanic specialist. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : The noise may be coming from the upper shock mounts worn out in the rear. The bushing is not serviceable separate from the shocks and have to be replaced as an assembly. If you want to have this checked out by a professional, a technician from YourMechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose the noise and make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : Hello,
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.

ANSWER : You can rule out the tire as a possibility by simply moving that left front wheel/tire assembly to the rear. After you do that, if the noise persists at the left front, then the tire is not implicated. Wheel bearing failures do make a range of noises and the noise you are describing is potentially included. You can rule out simple things on your own, though, such as brake interference (stuck caliper; check for a hot rotor on left front versus the rotor on the other side) or debris that is perhaps caught in the area of the steering knuckle and/or brake shield. If you cannot find the noise, what I would suggest is that you request a wheel bearing noise diagnostic/inspection. In the course of that diagnostic, if the noise is not found to be due to a failing wheel bearing, the mechanic will nevertheless pinpoint the source of the noise for you whatever the cause. If the bearing has failed, replacement can commence at that time or at a time that is convenient for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. The sound that you are hearing is a connecting rod bearing that is worn, loose, or damaged. Remove the oil and oil pan to the engine. You can remove the connecting rod bearings one at a time with rotating the crankshaft. Install new connecting rod bearings with white lithium grease. Make sure that you get a builders guide for the torque specs to torque the connecting rod retainers. Then put the oil pan back on with a new pan gasket and put in new engine oil. Start up the engine with the fuel injection or ignition disabled to prevent the engine from actually starting. This will allow the oil to go through the new bearings and prime the oil system. Then hook up the fuel injection or ignition and start the engine. If the sound went away, then you fixed the issue. If the sound is still there, then you may have a connecting rod coming apart from a piston. Then the engine would need to be rebuilt or replaced. If you need further assistance with your engine making a noise, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. The clicking noise that you are hearing is most likely the blend door or the blend door actuator for the rear A/C. This is a part that would best be found at the dealership. It might be possible for you to find it online or at a junkyard, but using new parts would be the best idea for this repair. If you need assistance with this repair, a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, can inspect the noise and make the correct repair.