My car has 140000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Generally, the check engine light comes on when something fairly serious is going on with the vehicle. This can happen for many different reasons such as a faulty mass air flow sensor, a faulty O2 sensor, a bad catalytic converter, bad spark plugs or spark plug wires and many other reasons. Many of these types of issues may also cause the vehicle to shake or vibrate a bit as you describe. Due to the wide range of possibilities for the check engine light to come on, the best and most efficient way to narrow down the scope of what may be causing this is to have the vehicle hooked up to a scanning tool to download any potential fault codes that may have registered in the computer. This will allow a mechanic to determine more specifically what to look for in diagnosing your vehicle. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your vehicle to determine what may be causing your check engine light to come on.
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Loose connections at the positive and negative battery terminals. Very dirty or clogged air filters can also cause your engine to underperform. Loose timing belts are another likely cause. A mechanic will check these and replace them if they appear loose and worn.
An oxygen sensor monitors and analyzes the amount of oxygen in a vehicle`s exhaust system after combustion. A dirty, damaged or malfunctioning O2 sensor (or sensors) affects the air/fuel mixture, causing the engine to idle rough.
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The reason for that is if cylinder compression varies too much, that variance alone can account for this symptom. If the cylinder compression is too low or varies too much from high reading cylinder to low reading cylinder, one would then try to rule out easily repairable items like a mispositioned timing belt or chain. Of course, if compression issues are traced to valve train problems, the heads have to be serviced.
Other potential causes of the vibration are a broken harmonic balancer, engine ignition timing being off, and flexplate and/or torque converter damage or imbalance. Prior to getting involved with diagnosing an imbalance in something as hidden as the torque converter, though, the engine should be put on a scope to determine if there is something going on in individual cylinder firing conditions that would account for the vibration. Varying power output from individual cylinders, due to possible fuel and ignition system problems, obviously will cause vibration: you could have a bad coil, plug, injector, and so forth. A scope makes that diagnostic easy.
I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine why the engine is shaking and suggest any necessary repairs.
Have a certified technician look into the engine shake to isolate the exact cause.
Hot spots normally don’t cause this problem in rotors, but it is more likely possible that there is a loose or worn wheel bearing in the front of the car. Also, loose or worn control arms, and worn-out lower ball joints can also cause this problem.
I would suggest you get your brakes and suspension inspected by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
Based on your input, there are a few items that you might want to have inspected by a professional mobile mechanic to determine what’s causing this shaking issue. First would be the tires and wheels for balance. Usually they will vibrate in the steering wheel progressively worse as you accelerate through the gears, typically starting to show up around 40 mph. Sometimes when you decelerate the vibration will slowly go away, but will still be there as you’ve indicated. Second, is possibly an issue with some front end suspension parts, including CV joints or tie rod ends. It’s highly unlikely that this issue is internal (meaning with the transmission or flywheel being out of balance), but that’s also something that a mechanic will keep in mind as they complete a car is vibrating or shaking inspection.