RPMs surging while driving

ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. We will break down the different issues, but at this point, you are likely looking at several hundred dollars in repairs, if not into the thousands. The most concerning part is the catalytic converter and the transmission. These are pricey and labor intensive repairs that typically are done by someone who welds (although you can use clamps for a new catalytic converter), and a transmission specialist.
The battery terminals that connect to the battery from the car are replaced by either replacing the entire wire, or splicing in new battery terminals on the end of the wires. Replacing the entire wire is more likely to cause less issues down the road.
The surging is likely a response from the engine pertaining to the exhaust and catalytic converter issue. Correct this and the transmission leak, and the surging will likely go away.
For more help with these repairs, or a full inspection of the vehicle, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : Hi there. The vehicle running great, once past the initial stall, leads me away from a fuel delivery concern. The stalling issue may be, the minimum airflow rate is not properly set. This could be the result of a dirty or worn throttle body. Cleaning and/or making an adjustment to the throttle body may correct the problem. Engine running at idle, plug the IAC passage, and the RPM (revolutions per minute) should be at or near 400 rpm. A vacuum leak present could also cause the engine idle to be improperly controlled and needs to be identified before any adjustments are made. I recommend having your vehicle’s stalling issue be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hello. The traction light is like a check engine light for your steering and suspension system. A technician could use a scan tool to pull any error codes to help pinpoint which component is faulty. I believe the problem your vehicle is having is a faulty shift solenoid. The transmission control module sends a signal to the shift solenoid for the shift solenoid to control the transmission shifting. By you paddle shifting you are basically bypassing the shift solenoid because you are controlling the transmission shifting yourself. If the shift solenoid fails completely you will not even be able to use the paddle shift function. It will be best to have your vehicle inspected by technician as soon as possible. You’re able to find a technician for transmission diagnosis here https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/not-able-to-change-gears-inspection

ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you are describing the symptoms of a failing throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor monitors the throttle position of the throttle plate inside the throttle body in relation to your foot position on the gas pedal. Based upon the inputs from the sensor reading your foot’s position on the pedal, the ECU then makes the direction to supply more or less fuel to the motor. When this sensor is not working properly, this can cause intermittent responses when pressing the gas pedal. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to you home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Although the check engine light is off, there may still be downloadable diagnostic trouble codes which might provide clues as to why the engine runs roughly. Possible causes of the trouble you are experiencing are uneven cylinder compression, fuel system problems (injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, etc.), a vacuum leak, EGR leaks, an air induction fault like a stuck idle air control valve or a faulty throttle position sensor, problems with the mass air flow sensor, defective spark plugs, a weak coil and defective oxygen sensor(s). If you desire that this problem be diagnosed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a rough idle diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello there. Sometimes transmission linkage being misaligned can be the cause of this problem. In other cases, obstructions inside the hydraulic lines of the transmission or torque converter issues can cause problems like you’ve described as well. It is probably best to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to shift inspection to attempt and diagnose this issues before taking it in for repairs.

ANSWER : Hello. The symptoms you describe can commonly be caused by a vacuum leak or faulty idle air control valve. A vacuum leak may allow unmetered air into the engine, which may causing the idle to stay high when the transmission is put into neutral. It may also be possible that the idle air control valve has malfunctioned and is causing the issues. The idle air control valve is the component that is responsible for maintaining and adjusting engine idle speeds. If it malfunctions it may cause an erratic or irregular idle, as you are experiencing. I would start by closely inspecting the vehicle for any vacuum leaks, perhaps in the form of a leaky gasket or worn out hose, and then move on to testing the idle air control valve.