RPMs shooting up and brake hard to press
The RPMs shoot up to between 3000 and 4000, but there's no acceleration. When this happens, the brakes get harder to press.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The symptoms you describe for your Oldsmobile Alero lead me to believe you may have a vacuum leak. It is very possible that one of your vacuum lines is starting to fail and this can duplicate a transmission slipping out of gear. It will also produce the experience of a hard brake pedal, as the brakes require engine vacuum to assist you in braking. To be 100% certain, it may be time to enlist the assistance of a certified mechanic to come by and inspect your Alero with you. With use of a scanner and a vacuum gauge, they can monitor the engine vacuum as well as the transmission during acceleration. They will be able to identify if this is indeed the problem or if these symptoms are a result of another problem. Once the cause of your symptoms is identified, they will be able to make the repairs necessary so your Oldsmobile can be driven without worry.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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If your RPM goes up when you are slowing down or braking, don`t worry, this is totally normal. When you brake, your car is slowing down to a stop. Your car`s automatic transmission is trying to adjust for the change in speed and this adjustment can cause your RPM to go up.
If your engine revs up as you press down on the gas but your vehicle doesn`t accelerate as much as you`d expect, you may be dealing with transmission slipping. If you`ve ever tried to accelerate on ice, where your engine revs but your vehicle goes nowhere, you know the feeling.
When the transmission develops a leak and fluid levels fall, a vehicle will begin to rev at higher levels as a result of the gearbox band or torque converter slipping. The vehicle may also experience irregular or delayed gear shifting. A manual vehicle experiencing this difficulty may be related to a slipping clutch.
Pulsating or surging brakes is a sign that ultimately occurs as a drastic byproduct of friction. This friction is caused due to two metallic components rubbing against each other. Overall, a pulsating brake must be looked at urgently since brakes need to be optimum for safety.
Monitor RPMs when idle
If the needle is steady, this indicates your engine is running properly. If the needle drops by a few hundred or shoots above 1,000 RPM when the engine is warm, your engine may have a problem. You should have it checked by a professional.
As you accelerate, your car`s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal.
Improperly functioning spark plugs cause an uneven burn of fuel in the engine, resulting in fluctuating RPMs and a louder noise. You might also experience increased vibrations of your vehicle while sitting idle or while traveling at low speeds.
If the RPMs are too high, try dropping it down a gear. This can solve the problem quickly and easily. Depending on what equipment the engine is hooked up to, you may be able to control the RPMs with gears. If the RPMs are too high, try dropping it down a gear.
A vacuum hose (also known as the vacuum line or brake hose) links the power brake booster to the engine. It assists in drawing air into the engine to create a vacuum. The vacuum hose may rot or crack at its connecting points, which leads to a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak, in turn, can cause a hard brake pedal.
When downshifting to a lower gear to perform an engine brake, you should make sure the rev counter isn`t over the red line. Drive for too long with a high RPM, and the engine could overheat, placing strain on the radiator and cooling system.
It sounds like you may have a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.
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Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
ANSWER : It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.
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Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
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My ford Fairmond car brake works only by pressing hard on the brake pedal while driving to stop.
ANSWER : Hi there. First check the brake fluid and make sure that it’s full and clean. If the brake fluid is black in color and is the original brake fluid in the vehicle, I recommend flushing the brake fluid to remove any moisture from the system and fluid. This will help with the braking efforts. Then if you are still having issues, the master cylinder would need bleed and the system would need bleed for any air trapped in the system. If the fluid is changed and the system is bleed and you still are having a spongy pedal, then the master cylinder is leaking internally and it would need to be replaced. If the brake pedal is hard and very firm like when your engine is shut off, then check the vacuum lines from the engine to the brake booster. If the line is good, check the brake booster check valve for any leakage. If the line and brake booster check valve are good and sealed, then get a stethoscope (without the end only the tubes) and check for any hissing air around the clamped areas of the brake booster and by the firewall near the brake booster while the engine is running. If you hear a hissing noise when the engine is running, then the brake booster would need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brakes not working properly, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
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I replaced the brake light switch. Gear lever unlocked because it had locked. Now the brakes feel hard.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. You need to check the brake switch install adjustment. You may have the switch adjusted too tight and it is holding the the brake pedal partly down. This will cause the brake master cylinder to not release the brakes when you let off the pedal. Readjust the switch away from the pedal until you feel some free play again in the pedal. This should fix the problem. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.
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EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.
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Brakes hard to press
ANSWER : It sounds like your brake booster is worn out. There is a diaphragm inside the booster that wears out and will not allow the booster to get enough vacuum to work properly. I would have a technician from YourMechanic come out and perform a brake inspection and inspect the brake booster.
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Hard brake pedal and rear brakes locking up.
ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.
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