Radiator leak

ANSWER : First off, I would say it would be best to pressure test the cooling system to verify where the coolant is coming from. With the complexity of repairs to the cooling system on this vehicle, it may be worth the time spent to pressure test the system before tackling the replacement. Now then, as far as replacing the o-ring seal on the water pump inlet tube, it should really only require the removal of the bypass hose, lower radiator hose, and the two (or three, depending on manufacturing changes) mounting bolts that hold the inlet tube to the block. I personally would go ahead and replace the tube while I was there, instead of just the o-ring. Granted, this doesn’t mention what it will take to get down to the inlet pipe, but this is all it should take once you have access to it. If this is something that you feel you could use a hand with, consult with a certified mechanic, like those available at YourMechanic.com.

ANSWER : If you have not done a job like this before you might want to consider watching a professional from YourMechanic do it for you, especially as the labor time is less than 1.5 hours so it’s pretty economical. The first order of business, of course, is to make sure that the upper hose is actually leaking and you don’t have a different issue such as a crack is the radiator itself where the hose attaches. Also, if that hose is leaking due to a break in aged rubber, the other "old" hoses should be inspected as well. A radiator hose replacement entails removing any plastic shields that prevent access to the hose(s). Then, you have to drain the coolant to a level below the lowest point that you will be working at. The hose clamps are removed and then you have to carefully "debond" the hose from the point it is attached to the tank. Over time, the rubber will bond really tightly to the radiator and you have to break the seal with damaging or severely scratching the radiator "nipple" (the part the hose slides over). Then you slip the new hose on (with clamps already loosely applied), apply the clamps and you are ready to refill. When refilling, you have to open the cooling system bleeder screws (if equipped) to ensure that air does not get trapped. Trapped air could cause the car to overheat as trapped air can block coolant flow.

ANSWER : Coolant leaks no matter how big or small should be addressed as soon as possible. As you noticed, the engine will run hot with a low coolant level. Even a minor leak can expand to a large or catastrophic leak with no warning. A minor repair now can turn into engine overheat and damage. The leak can be small enough now that it is burning away when contacting hot surfaces and not hitting the ground. If the radiator leaking is the cause of the coolant loss, then it should be replaced as soon as possible. The cooling system operates under pressure – usually 12-15 psi. A small leak can become a large leak because of the pressure. Have a certified technician address this as soon as possible. Do not use "coolant leak sealer" products as they are a temporary fix and can actually cause more damage by clogging small coolant passages and damage the water pump as well.

ANSWER : I would recommend looking at either hose to determine which hose the leak is coming from with the car running as this will pressurize the system and force water to the leaking point. Consider scheduling an appointment with one of our expert mechanics to come to your home or office to diagnose the leaking coolant issue and make necessary repairs.

ANSWER : If you are losing coolant from your radiator, the radiator will need to be replaced in order to stop the leak. When your coolant level drops past a certain point, the air conditioning will no longer work because the engine is overheating. I would recommend having a qualified mechanic perform this service to prevent any possible problems during the repair as well as having a warranty to go along with the repair.

After the radiator is replaced, I would the recommend having a cooling system pressure test performed to ensure that there are no more leaks in your cooling system. Once it has been verified that the leak has been repaired, have the air bled from the cooling system because any air that is left in the cooling system will cause the vehicle to overheat.

ANSWER : If you have to keep adding coolant daily and there are no external leaks, the only place for the coolant to go is in the engine. Check the oil to see if the oil is getting milky (looking like chocolate milk) indicating water is in the oil. If that is okay then the only other place is for the coolant to go into the combustion chamber. You stated you changed the head gasket. If your engine has overheated before and the head gasket blew, then you may have also cracked the cylinder head. Most of the time the head will crack between the valves in a coolant jacket, and if you did not have the head pressure tested, this may be the problem now. You can have the cooling system pressure tested and see if coolant gets into one of the engine cylinders. This is done by removing all the spark plugs and pressure testing until it loses pressure, then cranking the engine. Coolant will blow out of the cylinder that has a crack. If this is the problem then a replacement head will be needed.

I suggest you have this issue inspected by a qualified mechanic. A certified mobile mechanic from YourMechanic can visit your home or office to inspect your vehicle’s coolant issues.

ANSWER : Hello. The only other solution you may have is to remove the petcock and install a bolt in its place with sealant. I do not recommend doing this though as it is not a permanent fix. If you want to repair it correctly, then the radiator needs to be replaced. This happens all of the time as these are not opened often.

If you want to have it replaced, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to replace your radiator for you.

ANSWER : Stop leak products are generally an amateur, unprofessional solution to a TECHNICAL problem. Factory Service Manuals do NOT recommend or specify stop leak products BECAUSE such products are NOT considered to be an acceptable repair strategy, save for rare exceptions. The composition of your question clearly indicates that you understand that the OPTIMAL solution is to just fix the gasket(s) and you are simply seeking a stop gap (no pun intended) measure while you prepare for that repair. After having researched these products for decades and having tried a few, talked to manufacturers and so forth, I would suggest that you just let the vehicle leak until it was repaired assuming of course that oil is NOT leaking onto a hot manifold thus creating fire and health hazards. Of course, it is best to just simply prioritize the repair and one possibility insofar as the cost, as well as the diagnosis, is to get a second opinion from YourMechanic.