Pressure plate is grinding after clutch installation?

I got my clutch replaced and with a performance one and i had to switch out the pressure plate twice because its grinding and not grabbing like its suspose to and have to jump start which has been taking a second and when i get it to start it doesnt sound as loud, like its not giving out as much power as should . Everytime you try engaging the clutch it grinds and wont fully grab like suspose to. Changed the entire clutch kit even brand new clutch fork and slave cyclinder.

My car has 150000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. It sounds to me like something is misaligned, too wide or out of adjustment. The old and new parts should have been compared before you put the new parts into your vehicle to make sure everything lines up. I suggest that you check the reviews on your performance parts you purchased as well. Some performance parts providers claim it to work fine but when you read the reviews it says otherwise. Also be sure to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch kit. Please also check the shim between the engine block and transmission bell housing. If the shim is not in its proper place it can cause the engine and transmission to seat together too closely which would cause an issue such as you’ve described.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If you hear a whining or loud grinding sound coming from underneath your vehicle as you press the clutch pedal down to the floor, it may be caused by a throw out bearing that is damaged and need to be replaced.
If your transmission makes a grinding noise when you shift gears, you are likely experiencing friction between gears due to insufficient transmission fluid, worn transmission linkage, maladjusted binding, or a “dragging clutch.” If you hear grinding sounds when shifting from neutral to any gear, you may be dealing with …
Release bearings with a metal bush must be greased before installation. Before installing the clutch, the teeth of the clutch disc hub or the gearbox input shaft must be greased. The clutch transmits the engine torque to the gearbox with the aid of the clutch disc.
Worn out Clutch: Over time, a vehicle`s clutch can wear out causing a grinding noise and sensation. City driving and excessive use can cause the clutch to wear out sooner. Worn out Gear Synchronizers: Gear synchronizers can also wear out over time.
If the master cylinder is not able to properly create pressure, it will not be able to disengage the clutch properly when the pedal is pressed. This may lead to grinding the gears when shifting, and possibly even a transmission that pops out of gear.
If you notice your car making a grinding sound when it accelerates, your issue is likely to do with your transmission, a problem with your differential, a bad wheel bearing, a damaged CV joint, or a worn engine/motor mount.
A grinding or shuddering sensation is common when a transmission has trouble shifting fluidly. Sounds: Any grinding noises while shifting or knocking noises while in neutral are clear indications of a transmission in trouble.
Improper use of clutch – If the clutch is used improperly, it can cause damage to your clutch pressure plate. Examples of improper use include, riding the clutch too much while taking off on hills, skipping gears or using the clutch to slow down the vehicle by using engine braking.
Choose a well-respected brand of DOT-4 brake fluid. Don`t be fooled by “clutch fluid” labels on higher priced bottles. It`s the exact same thing as what`s in the brake fluid bottle. Do not use DOT-5 brake fluid.
If you hear a high-pitched squeaking as you press the pedal then you know that you have a problem with your clutch. This sort of noise is usually associated with problems with the clutch release or throw-out bearings.
A soft or spongy clutch is just one sign that you are due for an upgrade. This spongy feeling may become more apparent as you let your clutch go just before the gear catches.
If there is air in the system, you do not get enough pressure and the clutch is not able to fully engage. Bleeding the clutch is a process in which you remove all the fluid currently in the system, getting out all the liquid and air, and replacing it with purely liquid.
Dirty transmission fluid can cause symptoms similar to low transmission fluid levels, and that includes grinding and other unusual noises. If you are hearing these noises, check both the fluid levels and consistency.
3. Low Transmission Fluid. Another cause for grinding gears is when the transmission system isn`t getting proper lubrication from the transmission fluid. You may be low on transmission fluid or the fluid itself could be old and corroded.
Grinding noises are associated with rotating parts and rotating systems; any part or system that rotates can cause grinding.
to annoy someone: What really grinds my gears is when people talk behind your back. You know how it is when you see an email that grinds your gears before you`ve even had your morning coffee.
While a variety of other noises are possible, these are some of the more common and universal sounds. Manual Transmissions – Manuals essentially make three noises that indicate a problem; rhythmic clunking, grinding while shifting, and whining which fluctuates with engine RPM.
Slipping gears

Gear slippage happens when the clutch plate has become too damaged or worn to fully engage in a specific gear. You might notice what feels like engine “revving” where the rpm increases seemingly too drastically for the shift to take place.

This happens when the clutch plates do not provide enough friction and the transmission speed fails to match the engine speed because of the power loss of the worn-out clutch. A slipping clutch can cause a drastic drop in acceleration. Further, it affects the fuel economy of the vehicle too.
The average lifespan of a clutch is anywhere between 20,000 to 150,000 miles. Luckily, your clutch will likely give you ample notice that something is going wrong. Don`t get left at the side of the road with a vehicle that won`t shift into gear.
Slipping the clutch causes overheating and heavy damage to the clutch plates while making them unusable much before their expected life. Read more about that here . Many manual cars do not have a dead pedal. In such cars, resting the foot on the clutch pedal is a common practice.
The most common cause of clutch slipping is wear and tear on the clutch plate. Over time, the clutch plate begins to slip, resulting in a loss of power.
“Hot spots” or hard spots on the flywheel commonly develop as the clutch nears the end of its service life, as more friction-generated heat is created when the clutch is engaged. That heat affects the flywheel, creating areas that are harder, more thermally stressed or warped.
Commonly recommended manual transmission fluid formulations include SAE 80W, 75W-90, 80W-90 and SAE 90. In some cases, a multi-grade engine oil or automatic transmission fluid may be recommended. However, a manual transmission fluid is typically the most optimal for manual transmissions.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Pressure plate is grinding after clutch installation?
ANSWER : Hello. It sounds to me like something is misaligned, too wide or out of adjustment. The old and new parts should have been compared before you put the new parts into your vehicle to make sure everything lines up. I suggest that you check the reviews on your performance parts you purchased as well. Some performance parts providers claim it to work fine but when you read the reviews it says otherwise. Also be sure to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch kit. Please also check the shim between the engine block and transmission bell housing. If the shim is not in its proper place it can cause the engine and transmission to seat together too closely which would cause an issue such as you’ve described.

Brand new clutch installed and on the way home it grinds while shifting into 3rd and it never did that before.
ANSWER : Hello. I share your dismay. When a clutch is replaced it does not implicate any of the internal gearing of the transmission. Although it would seem improbable (because you are not experiencing grinding in gears other than 3rd) you might ask them to double check the bleeding and any visible external mechanism (lever) that might give a clue as to whether you are getting full disengagement of the clutch. It’s a long shot but of course the suggestion is prompted by this incredible coincidence.

One possibility I hate to mention is they of course could have somehow damaged the transmission in any pre or post "test drives" (I don’t recommend valet parking). To evaluate that possibility you would have to do a literal forensic examination of the parts involved. This is not impossible by any means but I suppose it will not help you one way or another as you simply need a fully repaired car.

As far as the cost to drop the transmission, get in there, and repair third, it is hard to say without knowing full extent of any hard parts that might be needed. Obviously, removal and rebuild, or removal and limited repair is relatively costly.

At this juncture, if you are keeping the car, an option is to get the shifting issue diagnosed by YourMechanic for a second opinion and perhaps link up with one of their certified transmission specialists who could no doubt get this resolved for you at a reasonable cost.

Clutch lost all hydraulic pressure after difficulty engaging gears while using the clutch.
ANSWER : Hello. This situation is usually a failure of either the clutch master or slave cylinder – they simply wear out. If you have any clutch fluid on the drivers side front carpet, the failure is the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid loss is on the ground, under the rear of the engine, the slave cylinder is the failing component. It is often more economical in the long run to replace both with your advanced mileage as they wear at similar rates. I would recommend having the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to repair this problem.

I have a Mitsubishi Lancer LS 2002 it has a new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing I bled the clutch 5 times I driver for
ANSWER : It could be that you have a leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder. Either one can cause the clutch to lose pressure that way. Unfortunately, The 02 Lancers had a "concentric" slave cylinder that requires transmission removal for replacement. So it’s really good policy to change the slave cylinder any time you replace the clutch. In later years, the engineers came to their senses and changed it to a conventional slave cylinder that mounts on the bell housing and is easy to replace. If you have been bleeding the clutch system you’ll know which type of slave cylinder you have. Either way, you can have this taken care of at your convenience by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your Mitsubishi and let you know what it will take to get your clutch working properly.

Issues with clutch cable on a newly installed clutch/flywheel.
ANSWER : Hi there. If the cable was loose before you changed the clutch out and is loose after the clutch was changed out, then the cable is stretched. I recommend replacing the clutch cable and adjusting it to the correct pedal height. If you need further assistance with your clutch cable replacement, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

Clutch master not building pressure and allowing gear selection
ANSWER : The broken connection may have shifted the level in a way that caused the seal to fail. If bleeding the air from the system does not help, you may need to have the clutch master cylinder replaced. Hire an experienced technician, like one from YourMechanic, to diagnose the clutch system and see if the slave cylinder moves when the clutch is applied.

Can a flywheel cause damage to a clutch plate?
ANSWER : This cannot be blamed on either party since the flywheel would show a spot that is low or high after it was machined. The flywheel may have what is called a "hot spot" from the last clutch slip which caused the flywheel to get hot, creating a hardened spot that would be hard to machine. At this point, replacing the flywheel and clutch with new parts will definitely solve the issue.

If you’d like a second opinion on this problem, consider enlisting a certified mechanic who can diagnose the shuddering you’re experiencing and perform the necessary checks on these components to find what exactly is at fault.

I can’t go into 4th or 5th gear and clutch does not engage after a recent clutch job, clutch release while in gear does nothing.
ANSWER : I would rule out the axle not being pushed all the way in. That would effect all speeds and gears. That you can engage gears other than 4th and 5th leads me to 2 m possibilities:
1. Shift linkage mis-adjusted.
2. Possible bent shifter fork internally.

If it feels like you can engage 4th and 5th with the engine OFF, then I would lean towards a clutch release issue.