planning to purchase older model car…seems good… how can i be sure it is good?

ANSWER : I would highly recommend a pre purchase inspection from your trusted automotive technician. Typically I look for wreck damage, body lines matching up, orange peel in the paint (signs of paint repair), frame damage or rusting, warning lights on the dash, a monitor check on the diagnostic connector to ensure codes have not been cleared, fluid leaks, a road test, check tire condition, check brakes, and so many more things regarding steering and suspension.

All of these items are included in a ’courtesy’ check which many shops offer. Then compare the cost of any potential repairs to the Kelley Blue Book value. A certified mechanic can perform a pre purchase inspection for the things that I’ve listed and find out whether or not that is a fair price for the vehicle.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes an actual load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. To temporarily override the immobilizer system, please see these instructions. With a fully charged battery that has been load tested, and the immobilizer system off, if the starter motor does not operate at that point, there are only two possibilities: 1) either there is no power to the starter motor, or an excessive voltage drop, hence the starter circuit would have to be diagnosed; or 2) there is power but the starter itself is bad and that includes the possibility of an intermittent fault and/or a failed bendix drive which are not detectable in conventional starter bench testing because the starter is not tested under load. If you desire that a specialist from YourMechanic resolve this, please request a no start diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. When the computer says that the bank 1 or bank 2 is lean, it is referring that the cylinders do not have enough fuel to burn. Check the injectors and see if they are plugged up. Look for a vacuum leak on the engine and brake system. Also, check the fuel pressure regulator and make sure that its regulating the pressure on the fuel rail properly. If you need further assistance with the lean condition on an engine, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello there. In general, when the battery is good and you have a solid power supply to accessories, more often than not the issue exists within the ignition cylinder, ignition relay or the starter / starter relay. The only way to determine this is to trace the power from each access point. If you have power upon turning the ignition switch to the starter, then the starter itself is the problem. Trace this backwards within the supply line if there is no power until you find the last point where power is supplied. If you have issues with this, you can always set up a car is hard to start inspection from one of our mobile mechanics, and they can pinpoint the source and recommend or complete the right repairs for you.

ANSWER : Hi there:

If you’re looking for a great code scanner that will give you multiple scanning and diagnostic services, the Snap On Versus 2 is a great one to consider. This article will give you a few ideas as to what you should look for in a good code scanner.

ANSWER : Rami: The areas of immediate concern when it comes to rust are brake and fuel lines and suspension or frame components. Rust on exterior sheet metal (body panels) is somewhat "cosmetic" although of course I understand that nobody wants to drive a car with visible rust. Technically speaking, and from the standpoint of safety and the cost of repairs, what you have to look for is rust on steel tubing carrying fluids and rust on the frame or suspension components. Typically, on a 4 year old car, you are not going to see anything meaningful in the way of rust in the underhood area. It will be difficult to determine the complete condition of the tubing through photographs unless they are incredibly numerous and complete.

Inasmuch as used car repair, maintenance, and restoration costs are highly dependent on the actual, as found, condition of the vehicle, the only way to get a reasonably precise estimate of costs you might face, and also to protect yourself in the transaction, is to request a pre-purchase vehicle inspection. That inspection, carried out by a certified Mechanic, dispatched to your location, will give you the exact data that you need to make a fully informed, intelligent decision and minimize your risk in buying a used car. If you look at the just cited link for YourMechanic’s inspection service, you will see a long list of the vehicle systems that must be inspected as well as details of YourMechanic’s inspection methodology. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Check fuses #6 and #10 in the underhood fuse box. The regulators could be bad. There are also two relays involved in the window operation on the Freestar. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring, it may be best to have a trained professional come look at the car to diagnose and repair your window problem.