What else will make my car drain the battery. Or is there some kind of delay from the alternator that isn't charging my battery? But even jumped off all the lights are dim and it doesn't run long. Then after cutting itself off it acts like the battery is dead. Keeep in mind I already had both tested. and there good.
My car has an automatic transmission.
You need to have the battery and charging system checked again. You have a bad connection to battery or battery is bad and not charging. I recommend cleaning battery terminals by removing and cleaning then and reinstall then test entire system again.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Keep in mind, just because the Alternator tests fine, does not mean the system is fine. The charging system is composed of wiring that not only supplies the battery and system with DC power, it also “senses” the voltage that`s out in the system in order to properly set the voltage leaving the alternator.
Charging problems can be caused by electrical faults in the alternator or voltage regulator, poor wiring connections at the battery or alternator, or a slipping or broken drive belt. Since most late-model import alternators are internally regulated, a failure of the regulator means the alternator must also be replaced.
If your alternator is failing, its voltage may drop below capacity, causing the battery warning light to appear on your dash. Similarly, the battery light will also appear if the alternator is exceeding its voltage limit, depending on how much stress it is under.
A simple test to check the working of the alternator is by running your car; and then unplugging the positive connection of the battery. If the car stops, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator.
Symptoms of a burnt out diode:
The engine will begin to run rough, lack power and eventually stall and not start again. The battery warning light will turn on, warning you that there is a problem with your alternator charging system. The headlights will become dim due to reduced battery voltage.
Alternator Low Voltage Between 10-20% of rated output
This indicates lack of excitation, which could be: The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) fuse (if fitted) has blown. The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) has failed. A break in the excitation circuit between the AVR and the exciter stator.
One of the most common problems you`re likely to experience with an alternator is a failure in the bearings. There are needle bearings in the alternator that allow the rotor to freely spin inside the housing, and those bearings can break down over time as a result of exposure to heat and dirt.
Basically, the light indicates a battery charging problem. If the light comes on and stays on while driving, this means that your alternator is running solely on energy stored in the battery. If you continue driving, your battery will eventually drain and your vehicle will stop working.
Probably, the most common symptom associated with a bad regulator is flickering, dimming, or pulsing lights. To be more specific, you may notice that the vehicle`s: Headlights fluctuate between bright and dim, without you doing anything. High beam isn`t working as expected.
The alternator is driven off the engine by a belt, which allows the alternator to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy through magnetic induction. Most of the time, there`s a high-amperage fuse or fusible link between the alternator`s battery terminal and the battery.
Leaky or shorted alternator diodes can cause rapid changes in the output voltage of the charging system. In addition, bad diodes can also allow current to leak from the battery back through the alternator to ground.
Yes, you can check your alternator by disconnecting the battery. However, it`s important to note that this isn`t the most accurate way to test the alternator. If you want to get a more accurate reading, you should take your car to a mechanic and have them test the alternator for you.
A good alternator should maintain battery voltage between 13.9 and 14.8 volts (14.2 is optimum). Even worst-case, with all accessories turned on, there should be at least 13 volts at the battery.
The voltage regulator controls the amount of power distributed from the alternator to the battery in order to control the charging process. Regulators are designed with different functions and work depending on their specification.
A parasitic drain refers to when your car`s battery continues to drain even after the car`s parked, and the amount of drainage is much higher than normal. Usually, it`s a faulty accessory in the car causing the drain – for example, a sensor or interior light doesn`t switch off automatically.
The ignition relay is essentially an electrical device that works as a switch for the power to the ignition system. Its job is to make sure electricity flows from the battery to the different components that need power. A bad relay will drain your battery and make it difficult to start the ignition.
Your car`s alternator may fail for various reasons: Age and use-related wear is often the reason behind a dying alternator. Engine oil or power steering fluid leaking onto the car alternator can lead to its failure. Prolonged idling while using multiple electrical accessories can prematurely wear the alternator.
If your alternator voltage regulator is working correctly, your battery`s voltage output should cap around 14.5V. If the reading is above 14.5V, you likely have a faulty voltage regulator. If the reading is below 13.8V, your battery is weak and will probably need a replacement.
There are many reasons your car`s battery might be dead, and one of them happens to be a broken voltage regulator. This is because when this part burns out, the battery will no longer charge, meaning it will eventually die.
With your car still in park, slowly press on the gas until your car reaches 1,500-2,000 RPMs. Read the output on the multimeter. The regulator should cap the output of your battery at around 14.5. If the voltage reads over 14.5, it probably means that you have a faulty regulator.
In fact, when the temperature is below 32 degrees, car batteries lose 35% of their strength, and at zero degrees they lose 60%. If you`re not prepared, you may find yourself stranded on the side of the road with a dead battery and an expensive tow in your future.
If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
#1 – Dead Battery
A battery that is drained or can`t hold a proper charge is one of the most widespread problems across all automobiles.