Noisy when engine first starts.
Sometimes it seems a bit noisy when car first starts up. I'm thinking the serpentine belt might need replacement?
My car has 95000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello,
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
A creaking sound when turning your steering wheel may be nothing more than a sign that your suspension system needs lubrication, but it may be a sign of something more serious, including tie rod damage, power steering rack damage, or a failing strut/shock.
A failing or dirty sensor can send incorrect data, resulting in too much or too little fuel going to the engine. This can result in a rough running engine that is louder than normal. Bad or Dirty Spark Plugs: Bad spark plugs can cause the vehicle to misfire which will make it run louder.
The most common reasons a Lexus RX350 has a rattling noise are the ball joints, struts or strut mount, or a problem with the sway bar links.
Low oil levels can create a ticking noise as well. Overheating is another indication that the engine`s problems are coming from low oil levels. A clicking sound can also mean that there are worn out seals and gaskets in the engine.
Causes include the starter not lining up correctly with the ring gear on the flywheel, missing or damaged gear teeth, or a faulty solenoid. Replacing the starter is most often the right solution. However, if there is damage to the ring gear on the flywheel, the ring gear will need to be replaced.
Reasons Your Car Makes a Noise When Turning the Wheel
CV Joints: If you hear a crunching noise when turning at high speeds, the CV Joints are typically the main culprit. Power Steering System: A screeching or whining noise while turning at normal speeds can mean that there`s an issue within the power steering system.
If you hear a rattling noise while driving, the first step is to not ignore it. The sounds and vibrations coming from your vehicle could be signs of a serious mechanical issue. Seek help from a professional who can find the source of the noise before any further damage is done.
Common reasons for this to happen:
Loose connections at the positive and negative battery terminals. Very dirty or clogged air filters can also cause your engine to underperform. Loose timing belts are another likely cause. A mechanic will check these and replace them if they appear loose and worn.
a frayed or cracked belt may create a rattling-like sound as it flaps around in the engine bay. or the noise could be caused by oil leaking onto the belt, or misaligned belt pulleys. solution: you or your mechanic can replace a worn belt pretty easily.
Dear Tim: It is not unusual to hear some engine when first starting on a cold start. The sound can either be from a hydraulic valve lifter, or piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. As the engine warms, the clearances change and get tighter and noises will usually disappear.
Wheel bearings are situated between the axle and the wheel, and minimize friction, allowing for smooth movement while driving. A grinding noise when turning may mean that the wheel bearing is worn out and should be replaced as soon as possible.
Common causes: Worn bearings; main, rod, or thrust. Damaged or worn main bearing noise is loudest under heavy load. Check your oil dipstick for any metal reflections. Metal shavings in the oil is one of the first indications of your main bearing material sloughing off.
Adding more oil will make the noise go away, but it won`t solve the underlying cause of the noisy engine – the oil leak.
What does a bad catalytic converter sound like? Often, a clogged catalytic converter sounds like a rattling noise is coming from under your vehicle and engine when you`re starting, idling or driving. Excess heat or damage in the converter can break apart the honeycomb materials, resulting in the rattling noise.
The most probable cause of the shaking generally occurs in the vicinity of your car`s wheels and tires. The tires and wheels connect your car to the road, and if anything is a bit wonky, will notice. On a serious note, it might be a broken caliper or a broken transmission mount.
Engine Noise
This could be due to a low oil level or the need for an oil change, or it could indicate more serious mechanical issues – such as the need for an oil pump replacement. If you hear a ping or knocking noise in your engine, you may be experiencing improper combustion.
When the timing belt starts to wear out, it may create a ticking sound inside the motor. This warning sign may also be an indication of low oil pressure or the engine not having the proper amount of lubrication.
Engine Noise
This could be due to a low oil level or the need for an oil change, or it could indicate more serious mechanical issues – such as the need for an oil pump replacement. If you hear a ping or knocking noise in your engine, you may be experiencing improper combustion.
Loud idling is usually caused by issues with cylinder compression. When there are problems with cylinder compression, you get an uneven fuel-air ratio. As a result, combustion becomes unusual. Having higher pressure inside the cylinder will result in loud idling noise.
For some, the sound of an engine equates to sportiness and power. The louder the sound, the greater the thrill. They know their vehicle is standing out. The engine noise also gives them something to play with and feel sporty even if they`re just driving through traffic.
Loud idling is usually caused by issues with cylinder compression. When there are problems with cylinder compression, you get an uneven fuel-air ratio. As a result, combustion becomes unusual. Having higher pressure inside the cylinder will result in loud idling noise.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.
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Engine tapping noise related to short term fuel trim but only on cold start up.
ANSWER : Has a mechanic’s stethoscope been used to track down the specific location of the noise? There are several solenoid valves in the engine bay that do not run all the time and may be pretty loud once they start, such as an evaporative emissions purge valve and the like. The high fuel trims on one bank sound like you may have a problem on one side with a vacuum leak. A positive trim means air is being added and the computer is trying to add fuel to compensate.
I recommend having an experienced technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine why the engine is making a noise and suggest the proper repair.
Read Full Q/A … : Noisy when engine first starts.
Car periodically will not start first time
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have given, this may be difficult to diagnose being intermittent. I don’t believe this would be a battery or starter issue unless, the engine is turning over slower than it should. Assuming the check engine light is not coming on, leads me to believe the vehicle’s computer is not recognizing a fault. It could be a fuel pump in the beginning stages of failing. A fuel pressure test could, confirm a faulty fuel pump. I recommend having your vehicle’s intermittent hard starting be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician from YourMechanic.
Read Full Q/A … : Noisy when engine first starts.
Why the MegasquirtPNP Pro ECU blew all six ignition coils at first start
ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear to me that the aftermarket ECU may have been the cause of the issue. I would verify that the aftermarket ECU was properly installed, as that is the only common denominator that all six of the coils have in common. This is more likely if the aftermarket ECU required any sort of wiring or harness modifications to fit. If not, it may be possible that the aftermarket ECU, or one of the ignition components or associated wiring has failed.
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Difficult start with hot engine, shutting off at start – 1990 Pontiac Grand LeMans
ANSWER : Hello there, thanks for writing in. You may have a few different things going on with your 1990 Pontiac Grand LeMans. These codes are most likely all related and have a few common causes. The most likely causes for this would be a stuck, open, or faulty thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, vacuum leak, spark plugs, exhaust leak, or an oxygen sensor. A certified automotive technician such as one from YourMechanic will perform a check engine light is on inspection and diagnose the fault performing any repairs required.
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Engine starts but stalls immediately
ANSWER : This may be an issue related to what is called an idle air control module. This is a module that regulates the amount of air that is allowed into the intake system as it is mixed with the fuel before being injected into the motor. When this is not working properly, this will cause the car to stall as you describe. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to definitively diagnose the stalling issue and make necessary repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : Noisy when engine first starts.
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : Noisy when engine first starts.
Cranks over start than dies
ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
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