No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
Okay so I had a couple bad hose worn out with cracks I replaced all my vacuum hoses piece by piece so I didn't cross hose anything still having issues like it's not getting enough gas. it throws a code of 1409 and I was driving it I blew a hole in the EGR valve loud boom and then it sounded like a air hose or whatever lots of exhaust coming out of the side so I have replace the PVC valve, EGR sensor, EGR valve, EGR solenoid ,coils, 2 -02 sensors and spark plugs and I still have no power acceleration what do I need to possibly replace next
My car has 184000 miles.
My car has an aut
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. It is not too common to see an EGR valve have an issue such as this. It may be due to a large amount of back-pressure coming from the exhaust. This occurs when the catalytic converter is failing. I would typically test the exhaust first to see if this is the case. If that is fine and if there is good flow from the exhaust I would then scan the computer for codes to see if there are any known faults in the computer. If that is also fine then I would check the sensor readings to see if there is anything that does not look right.
This symptom can also be caused by a valve timing issue, if there is too much wear in the timing belt causing the engine to lose power.
This symptom can also be caused by a valve timing issue, if there is too much wear in the timing belt causing the engine to lose power.
Consider requesting a YourMechanic certified technician come to your home or place of business in order to perform a loss of power inspection on your vehicle.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
There are a few reasons why your car might hesitate when you press the gas pedal. It could be due to a problem with the mass air flow sensor, the oxygen sensor, the TPS, or the fuel filter. It could also be due to a clogged or dirty air filter.
Culprits include a dirty fuel filter, clogged fuel tank strainer, clogged or failing fuel injectors, or a defective fuel pump. On most vehicles replacing the fuel filter is a DIY operation.
Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.
Common causes of why a car feels sluggish when accelerating include dirty mass air flow sensor (MAF), faulty spark plugs, defective throttle position sensor, clogged catalytic converter, faulty oxygen sensor, clogged air filter, and fuel system malfunctioning.
“Limp Mode” – If your car won`t accelerate over 25 or 40 mph, it could have engaged `limp mode. ` It is also known as a limp home mode, and it acts as a preservation feature. It is meant to get you home, to an auto mechanic, or safely off the road without destroying your engine.
Worn Transmission Fluid (Automatic Transmission)
Over time, the transmission fluid gathers dirt and grime. This can cause the engine to run roughly, stall or fail to accelerate when you press down on the gas pedal. You may need to have a transmission fluid change before more damage is done.
The leading cause of this type of problem is an exhaust restriction, like a clogged catalytic converter. It could also be an intake restriction, like a defective MAF/MAS sensor. There are lots of smaller things that can cause this.
Faulty spark plugs result in an engine misfire due to incomplete burning fuel. An interrupted combustion process can significantly affect the engine performance. Unattended engine misfire may result in intermittent strange engine sounds, power loss, and engine knock.
Mazda is recalling certain model year 2001 through 2006, and 2008, Tribute vehicles equipped with 3.0L V6 engines and speed control. Inadequate clearance between the engine cover and the speed control cable connector could result in a stuck throttle when the accelerator pedal is fully or almost-fully depressed.
One of the most common causes of jerky acceleration is a dirty fuel injector. Your fuel injectors are responsible for pushing fuel into your engine`s cylinders. This means they control the timing and amount of fuel used to keep your engine running.
Yes. While the damage may seem small initially, the longer you drive with a bad oxygen sensor, the worse the damage will become. Eventually, you may experience rough idling, poor acceleration, engine misfires, an illuminated check engine light, and failed emission tests.
Common Causes of a Failing or Degraded Engine
Low Compression. Dirty or Clogged Air Filter. Dirty or Clogged Fuel Filter. Bad Fuel Injectors.
One of the most common causes of those issues is your car`s throttle position sensor, also known as the TPS. The little sensor plays a big role in how much fuel your engine gets at any given point in time, and if it`s not functioning properly, you may notice changes in how your car runs and accelerates.
If your car is not accelerating, the first thing to check is the air filter. The air provided to the engine for the combustion process passes through an air filter, which catches all the impurities and debris present in the air. With continuous usage, the air filter gets clogged and doesn`t let air pass through it.
If you are driving at 120 mph, it is possible that your vehicle is hitting the speed governer. This speed governer will prevent the vehicle from going past a certain speed by limiting engine power and reducing rpms.
Malfunctioning spark plugs can result in increased fuel consumption and emissions because of incomplete combustion. The lack of proper acceleration is another sign of faulty spark plugs in a car. This causes the engine to not respond and struggle to increase speeds when the accelerator pedal is depressed.
3.0 L AJ V6, 200 hp (149 kW)/265 N·m (195 lb·ft)
This is a common symptom of a plug or wire electrical current problem. Air or Vacuum Hose – Another common cause for engine vibration and power loss is when air or vacuum hoses come loose, begin to leak, or rupture. The three necessities for all combustion engines are air, fuel, and spark.
shakes and won`t accelerate, it could be a broken CV joint, broken motor mount, unbalanced tires, a loose wheel, or a stuck caliper. Here are some of the most common causes of shakey cars: Broken CV joint: If your CV boot is faulty, the inner CV joint can fail, causing the car to vibrate when you accelerate.
If your car shakes when accelerating, the source of the issue can range from imbalanced tires to worn-out spark plugs, loose lug nuts, and more. Most of these problems can be handled with a quick (but possibly pricey) trip to the mechanic.
Among the symptoms of a bad catalytic converter are: Sluggish engine performance. Reduced acceleration.
The most typical causes of a car not accelerating while driving include a faulty sensor, contaminated fuel or air filters, or a faulty timing belt. Generally, this isn`t something you should ignore.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My car is hesitating / jerking at speed intervals of 20 mph, 30 mph, 35 mph and 40 mph.
ANSWER : This may be a sign of a dirty or failing mass air flow sensor. The mass air flow sensor is a unit in the intake system that monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. When this fails, this can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This may cause a hesitation, loss of power or jerking reaction when this sensor is malfunctioning. When this is not working properly, you may also notice a strong smell of fuel. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose your mass air flow sensor.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
Car runs fine at first then will not accelerate past 20 mph on a 2003 Kia Rio
ANSWER : Hi there. The problem with the auto part store scanning is they do not complete the inspection to pinpoint the precise source of the issue. For example, if an error code might indicate an issue with the speed sensor, it’s not always the sensor that is the issue. In fact, in most cases, it’s the electrical harness or just the connection of the sensor to the harness that is the problem. Your best option to correctly have this diagnosed is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection at your location.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
Car accelerates very slow when it hits 20 mph and neutral shift on dash starts to blink.
ANSWER : Either the transmission has thrust bearings or bushings that are worn causing the internal parts to go out of balance or there is an issue with the fluid is low causing the gears to slip. If the fluid is full and new, then the clutches may be worn causing them to slip. I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you diagnose your transmission shaking issue.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
My car won’t go over 20 mph. It will start to shake vigorously once it hits 20 mph
ANSWER : Hello. When an issue like this turns up with this many codes I usually start by checking the fuel pressure. If the fuel pump is failing and not creating the right pressure then you will get multiple misfires. If the fuel pressure is fine then it may be another issue. I have seen a failing catalytic converter in the exhaust cause this and I have also seen a failing timing chain cause this. Once the fuel pressure is tested then I would test the exhaust and check the cam and crank readings. A compression test may also be needed. This is something that you should have an expert mechanic look at, like one from YourMechanic, that can come to you to [diagnose why the check engine light is coming on] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/check-engine-light-is-on-inspection
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
ANSWER : Hi there. It is not too common to see an EGR valve have an issue such as this. It may be due to a large amount of back-pressure coming from the exhaust. This occurs when the catalytic converter is failing. I would typically test the exhaust first to see if this is the case. If that is fine and if there is good flow from the exhaust I would then scan the computer for codes to see if there are any known faults in the computer. If that is also fine then I would check the sensor readings to see if there is anything that does not look right.
This symptom can also be caused by a valve timing issue, if there is too much wear in the timing belt causing the engine to lose power.
This symptom can also be caused by a valve timing issue, if there is too much wear in the timing belt causing the engine to lose power.
Consider requesting a YourMechanic certified technician come to your home or place of business in order to perform a loss of power inspection on your vehicle.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
No acceleration past 30 mph, then 10 mph
ANSWER : Hello there, thank you for asking about your 1999 Chrysler Intrepid. The engine oil being overfull will not turn on the Check Engine Light. However, a transmission problem could and that’s what your issue sounds like. The first step in diagnosing your vehicle is to retrieve the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) associated with the Check Engine Light. These codes serve as a starting point for any further diagnostics. You’ll also want to check the transmission fluid level to see if it is full and clean. Often an internal transmission problem will result in fluid that is contaminated with metal, friction material, and/or smells burnt. My best advice is to have your vehicle inspected by a professional from YourMechanic who can replace/refill the transmission fluid if needed.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
Car loses power, sputters, shakes, jerks, stalls and the check engine light flashes and I cant drive over 15 like 20 mph
ANSWER : That type of very rough running, sputtering, no power is commonly caused by problems with the ignition system. The fuel system also needs to be checked to eliminate a fuel control problem as the source of this issue. Cam timing may also need to be verified to see if the timing belt has jumped out of time. When the Check Engine light blinks, it is telling you that the misfire is so severe that the catalytic converter can be damaged if you continue to drive it. It gets worse with the A/C on because that puts extra demand on an already struggling engine.
I suggest that you have a certified technician complete a comprehensive inspection on your vehicle to determine what repairs will be needed.
I suggest that you have a certified technician complete a comprehensive inspection on your vehicle to determine what repairs will be needed.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
Car cannot accelerate past 20 mph – 1988 Mercedes Benz 560SL
ANSWER : Hello. You should have the fuel system injection checked to make sure the fuel distributor is working as it should and the fuel filter is not clogged with bad fuel varnish. I would suggest having fuel replaced with fresh fuel and filter replaced to start and go from there. You may need fuel system components replaced. To have this checked, a qualified pro from YourMechanic can inspect the acceleration problem and pinpoint what corrections should be made.
Read Full Q/A … : No power acceleration after I hit 20 mph
