My SUV can run fine and all the sudden it will act like it’s not getting gas and stall out. It will start back up to do the same.

My expedition will run fine and all the sudden it will act as if it's not getting gas and stall. It will start back up to stall again. I have to let it sit for like 20 mins and it will start to do it again after driving like 30 mins. What could be causing this?

My car has 200000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. There are a few things you may want to do that will likely improve engine performance. These would include cleaning the MAF, a new air filter, a new fuel filter, and new spark plugs. All need to be replaced regularly, and are often looked over. The symptoms you are having are unfortunately attributed to a more serious issue with the fuse box. Your make and model does have a history of experiencing fuse box electrical issues and even damage from heat. Keep in mind that heat causes expansion and if the fuse box is nice and cool when this happens, you may want to turn your attention to the spark plugs and ignition system. The distributor and related components may be experiencing a bad connection when they warm up. Further test the listed components when the vehicle stalls next.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most common reasons a Ford Expedition engine stalling are the fuel system, the air intake system, or the ignition system.
Common reasons for this to happen:

Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine.

The most common reasons a Ford Expedition won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
The most common reasons a Ford F-150 won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
Some of the most common sensors that lead to engine stalling include the mass airflow sensor (MAF), engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) and manifold absolute pressure sesnsor (MAP). The idle air control valve (IAC) and exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) are also well known for causing engine stalling.
It could be a dead alternator, a bad coolant sensor or lack of fuel, just to name a few. Is your car stalling while accelerating? If so, then it could be a major vacuum leak, clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump. If your vehicle is stalling when driving, seek professional help to track down and fix the issue.
When your engine shuts off when you slow the car down its often as a result of a: Malfunctioning transmission. Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump.
If the vehicle randomly shuts off while driving or stationary, there is usually an issue with the engine. Typical patterns here are issues with the ignition system, mixture preparation or fuel. A known error here is that the vehicle was refueled with the wrong type of fuel.
A: Possible causes: a marginal battery, a poor connection in the starting circuit or starter, a charging-system problem, or the battery is being drained while the car`s parked. If this only happens first thing in the morning, a weak battery or a drain in the electrical system are likely causes.
There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My SUV can run fine and all the sudden it will act like it’s not getting gas and stall out. It will start back up to do the same.
ANSWER : Hello. There are a few things you may want to do that will likely improve engine performance. These would include cleaning the MAF, a new air filter, a new fuel filter, and new spark plugs. All need to be replaced regularly, and are often looked over. The symptoms you are having are unfortunately attributed to a more serious issue with the fuse box. Your make and model does have a history of experiencing fuse box electrical issues and even damage from heat. Keep in mind that heat causes expansion and if the fuse box is nice and cool when this happens, you may want to turn your attention to the spark plugs and ignition system. The distributor and related components may be experiencing a bad connection when they warm up. Further test the listed components when the vehicle stalls next.

Not getting enough fuel car will not run right. It stalls when you give it gas and stalls when it’s running. It’s a 1984 Ford Escort.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.

Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.

If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.

Ok car starts and runs fine normal idle but once it gets up to warming temp it’s like it starts to bog and dies.
ANSWER : With the randomness of the codes you are pulling, it is hard to determine what they have in common. When diagnosing mechanical errors like this, keep it simple. Due to the loss of power and stalling issue, I would like you to look at the one component that may have a huge effect over all of theses parts.

The ELD is a unit which measures the amount of power coming from the battery. It allows the alternator to adjust the field, and the amount of power generated by it. If you are experiencing issues with the ELD, which allows the battery and alternator to behave incorrectly, the other electrical components in the vehicle will not work. You may have more than one issue that is all coming to a head at once.

You can test the ELD with a multimeter, but any electrical testing can be dangerous, and we recommend you proceed with caution. If you’re not comfortable with this repair, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the stalling issue firsthand and help you make the necessary repairs.

Sometimes the truck will start and run just fine, and other times it will barely want to start and I need to press the gas pedal
ANSWER : Hello. This can be caused by a few different things. If the vehicle will run by pressing lightly on the gas pedal then it may be a bad idle control valve. If it sticks, it will allow too much air into the engine and cause it to run like this.

It can also be a weak fuel pump or an air flow meter issue. If the engine runs fine once it is started, then I would check the computer for codes first. If none are present, then I would run the engine and see what the sensor readings are to see if anything comes up faulty.

If those are also fine, then I check the fuel pressure to see if the pump is getting weak or to see if the pressure bleeds off while the vehicle sits. If you are thinking of having this starting issue inspected, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this problem.

Warm engine, long starting and feels like it isn’t getting gas, 10 sec, then takes off like nothing wrong. Doesn’t happen all time
ANSWER : The biggest challenge with your symptoms is they are intermittent. Intermittent symptoms are often difficult to duplicate and we can’t diagnose something that is working. The biggest challenge here is recreating the symptoms. While attempting to recreate the symptoms, I would have a scanner connected and recording all the data. If the problem arises, it will be recorded and I would most likely be able to see what happened in the scan data.

It is good you are taking notice of the conditions that the symptoms cause. This information will be valuable for a technician to pinpoint the problem. As for what the problem could be, it could be many things. The fuel pump could be binding and not delivering enough fuel, the TPS (throttle position sensor) may be glitching or a crank or camshaft sensor maybe sending false information. Camshaft and crankshaft sensors are common failures on Civics. So these two sensors would be suspect, as well as the wiring harnesses that feed them. Poor electrical connections are notorious for symptoms such as these.

The long story short is someone will need to catch the culprit sensor in action, which is the biggest challenge with intermittent problems. With my own vehicles, I often wait until the failure becomes more regular to diagnose them. It saves a lot of time.

I recommend the loss of power inspection to help you figure this out.

Good luck!

Why doesn’t car start after running out of gas girlfriend ran gas out of car now won’t start plenty of gas in tank doesn’t sound l
ANSWER : Fuel pumps rely on liquid gasoline for cooling. Consequently, it is recommended to keep the fuel tank at least 1/4 full to prevent the fuel pump from overheating. If the pump is run to the point of being dry, the seal on the impeller can overheat and get damaged. Even if the pump subsequently runs, as you report your does, it cannot develop enough suction to pick up fuel due to the seal damage. That is possibly what has happened in your case but it should be confirmed prior to replacing the fuel pump. In your circumstance the recommended service is fuel pump replacement but if you request that, the responding certified mechanic will do enough tests to confirm that there is no other possible explanation for the failure. There is a quick and direct way to determine if the problem is lack of fuel. Procure a can of "starter fluid" from any department store. Using the material cautiously (it is highly flammable; keep away from flames or sparks), introduce some of the fluid into the intake of the engine while you engage the starter motor. If the vehicle starts and runs briefly, then you know for sure the problem is fuel starvation of course almost undoubtedly caused by the pump failing. Fuel pump replacement can be accomplished in the field, right at your location, if you desire that service.

SUV stopped running won’t start does turn over . Battery light flashes when attempting to start. Acts like starving for gas .
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Because the vehicle is new to you, it is difficult to point yourself in a good direction, and we will have to start with the basics. Due to the fact the battery light is on, you need to go have it tested. This can be done at home with voltmeter, or it can be tested at most automotive parts stores. If the battery is not the cause, then you want to look further into spark plugs and make sure they are working correctly. After you confirm you have spark, you can turn your attention to the fuel system and test for fuel pressure. For more help with testing, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.