My RPM’s on my car keep revving up, but won’t go past 2,000

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you provided, your vehicle has problems with the transmission again. You stated it will not shift into 3rd gear again, like before the transmission was rebuilt. If the transmission is again the problem, it should be covered under warranty. It could be a faulty shift solenoid. The shift indicator not reading properly could be a faulty transmission position sensor. If this is an overall lack of performance issue, according to your last statement, then possibly you have a restriction in the exhaust system. I recommend having your vehicle’s problems inspected and diagnosed by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi there. A rough idling engine can be caused by a number of issues, some of them are serious while others tend to be minor, but the symptoms remain pretty much the same. The car will feel rough and bouncy when the engine is running. The car will also idle below its regular speed, display inconsistent RPMs and may produce a shaking, skipping or slipping sound when the vehicle is running. While a rough idling engine may seem to be a simple inconvenience it often indicates a deeper problem within the engine. The vehicle should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible because small problems have a way of turning into expensive repairs.

ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.

ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. In most cases, the problems you’re describing are caused by damage to the electrical system either at the fuse box or through relays that send electrical signals to each component that isn’t working; such as your power windows, instrument panel and others. If the vehicle was exposed to lots of water, this may have damaged the electrical system or the vehicle’s on board computer as well. The best way to reduce the stress, time and money on trying to find the exact source of your problems is to have one of our local mechanics inspect your Honda Accord for electrical problems at your home or office.

ANSWER : I suspect you have a dead (or very low) battery, a failed alternator, and an electrical circuitry problem as well. It may be hard to tell which came first if there is wiring damage already. The clicking you hear is likely the starter solenoid not getting enough power because of a dead battery.

If the car shut down while driving, that is usually an indicator that the alternator is not charging the system. Once you have jumped it off, it should continue to run on the alternator. The failure to run more than 10 mph and the smoke from the engine compartment suggest very low system voltage and additional wiring problems sapping all the electrical system’s power.

I would recommend having a professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, perform an inspection to determine why the battery will not hold a charge and assess any additional problems with the alternator.

ANSWER : Hello. This can be caused by a number of things. I usually start by doing a compression test on the engine first. If the compression is low then the engine may be worn or it may need a timing chain. If the compression is fine then I test the fuel pressure and the catalytic converter. Low fuel pressure or a clog in the converter will both cause this. There are a number of other things that can cause this also. If you are thinking of having this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to to to diagnose why the car has no power and misfires.

ANSWER : Hey there. If the vehicle has a manual transmission, your issue can be caused by a worn clutch. When the clutch is worn, it no longer has the clamping strength to transmit power from the engine to the transmission. This can cause the engine to rev but the vehicle speed does not equal the engine speed.

If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the problem can be caused by a couple of issues. One could be the torque converter. The torque converter transmits power from the engine to an automatic transmission in a similar manner that a clutch does with a manual transmission.

Also, automatic transmissions do have internal clutches but they are considered "wet clutches" as they are immersed in automatic transmission fluid. If the internal clutches are worn, your vehicle can act similarly to a worn manual transmission clutch – the engine revs but the vehicle speed does not match. Have a certified technician diagnose your transmission slipping concern as soon as possible.